Episode #98: #pfLocalFabric Intro

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Catch up:

Jenny:  I’ve got lots of fabric coming in, and in a twist, I think I’m headed somewhere else with all my designing outside of just a regular website where you buy my dresses.  It’s all a swirly in my brain (and the brain of some brainstorming peeps at my day job) but it’s so exciting, and so full of potential, and SO ME.  I smile a lot when I think about it.  So how’s that for mysterious progress on something I’m not currently actually sewing.  Also:  I’ve got two designs in the works that I’m going to (gulp) submit to Tauko magazine.  I don’t expect to get picked – I’m really new to this, and often my designs are about making something that’s inspired by other something’s possible for a fat body… so maybe I’m not creative enough.

Beverly: For Christmas, I made my mom an Itch to Stitch Celeste dress using fabric I purchased at my local fabric store, Domesticity.  I am using the Robert Kauffman Essex, cotton linen blend for the dress and it’s perfect.  It’s not really a seasonally appropriate dress, but my mom really wanted a short sleeved shift dress and this one fits the bill.  Man that fabric is so easy to sew!

It’s yarn dyed, light blue/white.

New patterns:

New standard for our podcast – only discuss patterns with a hip (or largest measurement) >or= 60”. This doesn’t apply to anything except what we will discuss here.  As always, any pattern can be used for the challenges, regardless of size range, but we have both been feeling like the 55” standard is lower than we are comfortable with and so many pattern companies have expanded to 60 and beyond!

For this week’s new patterns, I went to the Curvy Pattern Database.  It’s great because all patterns on this site meet the 60” and above standard!  Here are a few from companies that I hadn’t even heard of before. 

Audacity Joggers from Pattern Niche

Adult Cruise Culottes by Jennuine design

Inger Dress – Melilot patterns – sizes 32-64 – I think it’s a 61” hip – size chart in Norwegian I think. But you can get English instructions to the pattern!

Van Den Berg Fashion – Winnie and Mabel dresses

This month’s theme: Local Fabric!

Globally Local Stores.


Episode 97: #pfPajamaParty recap

Clue for next month:

Sponsor: Punk Frockers!  Labels and patches

Catch up:

Jenny:  I’m having fun with my new one sleeved bodice, but mostly by fabric shopping for outrageous fabrics – like a stretchy foil, crushed velvet, etc.  I’ve finally begun to come out of my design/sewing stupor and begun sewing again in the mornings.  Mostly gifts – so not as much to talk about.

Beverly: Variation of Hinterland dress in Merchant and Mills large gingham yarn dyed linen, navy/red for my Christmas dress

For Jim: Merchant and Mills Sidney in Merchant and Mills jacquard fabric from Domesticity.

Anecdote – heard a first time Christmas celebrator refer to it as having a part-time job from mid November until Christmas.  I love this, but I think a better analogy is taking a course – you don’t have to keep all semester, but when you don’t, the time before the final sucks!

Community news: 

Style arc has sewing tutorials for many of their patterns.  They have been trying to improve their directions, but also want to offer these tutorials to supplement.  

New patterns:

Friday Pattern co Saturday Skirt set

This looks right up Jenny’s alley!  Long skirt with tie front top, exposing a bit of belly.  

Elbe textiles Davis Belt

Merchant and Mills The Elling – men’s trousers

An everyday men’s elasticated trouser with front slanted pockets and back patch pockets. Make them with or without a zip.

Recap #pfPajamaParty

Jenny :  Bupkis.  I think I’m likely to make one PJ like dress (secret pajamas) before the season ends – but no promises!

Beverly: pajamas I talked about last week – love them and have been wearing them a lot.  Good for lounging too.


 Be sure to check out for detailed show notes with a hint at next month’s theme!  


Episode 94: Introducing #pfPajamaParty

94 #pfPajamaParty

Sponsors: Punk Frockers – labels and patches!

Catch Up:

Beverly:  Hinterland hack #6: flouncey sleeves, dart moved, supposed to be grown on sleeves.

Creative Hinterland class


Finished up things for my maker’s market – first night I sold a good bit so I already feel successful

Pink Orion dress – fluffy fun – final version.  Just need to get grading tested out and I’m ready to go!

Made my Mrs. Claus base dress – using my own pattern, and crimson IL19 linen from – still need to add fur trim, and find the right boots (which make be my black Uggs with fur added temporarily.

New Patterns:

Daughter Judy Worship Jeans

Line drawings of jeans

The Worship is a classic five-pocket rigid jeans pattern. Slim fit through the hip and thigh with a pitched straight waistband. Choose between a straight or flare cut leg. Meant for a heavier weight fabric that will break in with wear.

Kelly Anorak Closet Core

Newly upgraded to full size range (up to 63” hips)

Lightweight and unlined, it features a two-piece cuffed sleeve, optional drawstring waist, gusseted flap pocket and a zipper placket with snap buttons.  View A will keep you warm and dry with a roomy three-piece hood, while View B features a classic stand-up collar.

Line drawing of anorak jacket, front and back

Itch to Stitch Winterthur Jacket

Stay warm and cozy in the Winterthur Jacket! This contemporary utility jacket is relaxed and is a perfect addition to your everyday outfit. The buttons and hardware add a polished look to this casual jacket. Choose to make it in a simple cotton twill or a water-resistant polyester for different occasions.

Winterthur Jacket Features:

  • Options for cup sizes
  • Options for collar and three-piece hood
  • Fully lined
  • Front princess seams to shoulders
  • Back yoke
  • Cinched waist by drawstring on the inside
  • Front patch and optional chest pockets
  • Front zipper with buttoned flap
  • Two-piece long sleeve with adjustable buttoned sleeve hem
  • Designed for non-stretch woven fabric

Skill Level: Advanced

Up to size 40 (63/54/62)

By Hand London Draft it yourself

Truly size inclusive, a bit more work up front – these are for folks that want to learn to draft some patterns and perhaps have fewer fitting issues down the line.  There are three choices, a little over $8 US for each or a bundle for about $21.

4 images one with three women wearing skirts and then three individual photos of each of the women

Fibrandcloth Agave Top and Dress

Woman wearing cream colored button up shirt with camp collar



New PJs sound so good to me!  I just purchased this beautiful, very nice flannel from Core Fabrics to make myself some.  They are sold out of all but the black and white version.  (I got purple/orange/navy)

What are some ideas:

  • As usual, we will be very strict with what we allow!  Hahaha!  
  • If your PJs are T shirts, that counts too! 
  • If you make pjs for someone else – you are nicer than we are and your gift counts!
  • If you make “secret pajamas” this counts too!
  • As always, if you made something previously that you’d like to share, you can do that too.  We know December is a really busy month!  

What will you make Jenny?


Want to sponsor?  DM

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Episode 93: #pfSewNotClothes recap

Clue for next month’s theme:

93 Recap #pfSewNotClothes


Noodlehead – pdf pattern

Our last month sponsor Needle Sharp has offered a discount code for all of our listeners this month!  It is: PFNOV

Johassler: Labels & patches for one lucky winner

Catch up:


Orion:  Dark green linen with puffy sleeves IL19

Orion:  green print from Seams Fabric + a lavender check whose origin I don’t quite recall

Beverly: Merchant and Mills Edie – OMG M&M now has both size bands on single web page!  Dropdowns for size and pdf v paper!

New Patterns:

Merchant and Mills:


The Quinn

Helen’s Closet Brooks Jeans

Style Arc Philomena Woven Dress

#pfSewNotClothes recap

I think Jenny wins on this one!  What did you do for it?


I made 50 6x9x2 zipper pouches, 35 4×4 zipper bags, 20 set of 4 hemmed linen napkins, and hundreds of patches (from rubber stamps I carved myself).


Pillow covers for couch

Pillow made from rectangles of fabric from recycled jeans
Back of pillow, navy blue with white images of flowers in a pattern similar to a bandana.

Bought pattern and hardware for Sandhill Sling from Noodlehead (only November 20 as of this recording)

Community shout outs:

Person wearing polka dotted, corduroy scarf with circular abstract flowers attached. Scarf has white background with green, gray, black or pink dots.
Instagram screenshot showing hand made monkey stuffed animal wearing pants with suspenders.


Want to sponsor?  DM

Reminder to rate & review

Reminder to join our Patreon


Episode 89: #pfSewNotClothes


Noodlehead is donating a pdf pattern

Our last month sponsor Needle Sharp has offered a discount code for all of our listeners this month! The discount is for 15% off and the code is: PFNOV

Johassler: Labels & patches for one lucky winner

Catch up:

Beverly: Creative Hinterland class: I’ve altered the wrap dress pattern as I described in the last episode – kept the raglan sleeves, made the bodice one piece, kept the sleeve and back details, made the skirt fuller by doing width of fabric x 2 (in my size this is almost double the fullness).

I also made the original Hinterland – a little shorter for a tunic using some lovely linen I purchased from Blackbird Fabrics.  They don’t have the same fabric still but loads of beautiful linen and other fabrics


Bags, bags, bags, lol.  Also carving stamps.  And I made my dress for Atlanta Frocktails … and I think I hate it.  I have time to make another so I’m probably going to do that.  Assuming I go – I’m still trying to find someone I can bunk with, lol.  

New Patterns:

Sew Liberated Limestone

Style Arc Penelope Woven dress

True Bias Riley Overalls and Jesse Tee

Overalls 14-30 0-18

Tee 0-18 14-30

This month’s theme: #pfNotClothes

Whaaaattt??? A non-garment theme????  Well, mostly.  Here are some ideas:




Dog beds


Pillowcases (technically clothes for pillows but we will allow)



Tea cozies (clothes for teapots?)




So many choices!  What are some of your favorites?

Beverly: I’m excited to make a fanny pack/bum bag.  I don’t even know all the things I need to buy to make one but I bet I can figure it out. We also have some ugly couch pillows (loose pillows, not part of the couch) that I would like to recover.  


Episode 88: Recap #pfGenderMORE

Hint for next month’s theme:


Last minute addition – Needle Sharp @needlesharpny 

#MahoganyTurban pattern with enough fabric to make two hats.  Folks can keep one and donate the other or donate both.  

Taylor.hart.fabrics$100 gift certificate

Jenny: 2 yards of a pink white blue moth design created by a non-binary trans masc artist in a cotton knit. 

Catch up:


I’ve fallen in love with stamping so hard. I’m also mostly prepping for holiday craft fairs. 

I’ve still found time to make a couple of my self-drafted dresses AND my drafting class has started & I’m officially scared. Learning illustrator is something I’ll definitely do better if it’s in person. Sigh. Lol. 

Beverly:  Creative Hinterland class: finished my Jacket!  It is made from Merchant and Mills Jacquard fabric in color “Quink” and “Hardy Falls” (navy and olive) from Domesticity.  I am so proud of this jacket!  In case you haven’t heard progress from recent episodes, this make required 3 toiles.  It started as the Hinterland dress pattern and after adding ease, sleeve length and a bit of length to the bodice, plus making it a V neck and adding style lines that continued over the sleeves and onto the back- it became a jacket.  All the pieces were serged before starting so that the seams could be busted open instead of finished together to minimize bulk.  I love it so much.  Next up: a wrap dress. We have converted the Hinterland into raglan sleeves and added some extra gathers at the shoulder and back.  In addition, we added width to the sleeves and extra length in the back to gather into a cuff. I’ve made my first toile and I don’t like the fit.  Two things: our teacher suggested washing it first to be sure I don’t like the fit after a bit of shrinking back (fair point) and I want to also try it without the wrap, just make the front on the fold instead of single triangle pieces. 

New patterns:

Pattern Emporium – Take the chance Tiered dress – up to 55/49/59

Seamwork aims max 64” hip

Aims is a romantic oversized button-up blouse with raglan sleeves, and front and back gathers on the lined, curved yoke. It features a band collar, elastic at the sleeve hem, and 3/8″ (10 mm) buttons down the front.

Jennifer Lauren Handmade Jade back wrap dress 

Based on the classic apron styles of the 50s.

Jade features a fully lined sleeveless bodice with princess seam front shaping and darted back shaping, finished with a V neckline.

A wide A-line skirt includes side seam pockets and falls to below the knee. The back skirt overlaps almost side seam to side seam (it’s stepped back just a smidge so you can’t see the edge of the skirt when looking from the front), meaning you have plenty of coverage across the back – even in windy weather.

Jade can be made in both floatier fabrics with some drape for hot weather (think cool linens and floaty cottons) as well as heavier weight fabrics like denim and wool suitings for a crisper finish in cold weather.

Stay stitch September sun dress

The September Sun Dress and Top features corset sealing details, a soft sweetheart neckline, an open back with ties and a gathered skirt/peplum. There is light boning in the sides for structure. View A is a midi length dress, View B is a short dress hitting just above the knee and View C is a peplum top. 

It is available in sizes 0-34 (up to 64″ hip)

By Hand London-Nerrisa quilted coat and jacket – up to 68” hip

Sewing Community news:

CurvypatternDatabase contest

#pfGenderMORE recap:


#85 #pfGenderMORE intro


Taylor.hart.fabrics$100 gift certificate

Jenny: 2 yards of a pink white blue moth design created by a non-binary trans masc artist in a cotton knit. 

Catch up:


I found a cute fabric on clearance at Joann & bought it to make a version of my self drafted dress. I have to share how cutting & buying it went. 


New set of PJs for my mom – used the Sew Liberated Nocturne pattern – same as the pair I made for myself except fabric.  I did use Liberty Tana Lawn, but the print is Hydrangeas – my mom loves hydrangeas!  Gift for her birthday.

New Patterns:

Sew Over It Nicole Dress– Nicole is a classic shirt dress with all the trimmings: buttons all the way down the front, collar and collar stand, and a midi A-line skirt with a gently curved hem. Bust and waist darts in the bodice create a feminine silhouette and you can pick between a gathered skirt or a flat-fronted skirt with darts at the back. And yes, there are pockets!

We’ve given you the choice of two sleeve styles to make this a pattern that can serve you from spring all the way to winter. The short sleeve is finished with a stylish turn-up, whereas the long sleeve features traditional shirt cuffs with a bound opening.

Make Nicole in a viscose or crepe fabric for a fluid look, or choose a cotton poplin, cotton lawn or linen for a more structured style.

Here’s a version by inspired.chic in a solid – much easier to see style lines. 

Pattern Emporium Wanderlust dress – Expanded sizing – Nice to see companies that continue to go back into old patterns and expand sizing and not just new patterns.  

Sewing community news: 

In case you haven’t seen this yet, MyBodyModel – custom croquis making service is going away.  If you’d like to get one for yourself, you can still do so until December 15, 2022.  There is a discount of 20% with code: THANKYOU20

MyBodyModel is an app that makes custom fashion croquis templates (body outline sketches) with your real body measurements. Get your own printable & digital fashion sketchbook and draw your fashion designs on a body model that looks like you.


We know that clothing doesn’t have a gender – is genderless, but thinking outside of gender norms gives us so much MORE, so that’s why we’ve used this hashtag.

What does this mean?

Fabric, notions, clothing styles aren’t gendered – so expand your mind 😀

Could use patterns or styles that are conventionally designed for a different gender than the person wearing the garment.  

Could use fabrics or colors out of conventional male/female norms

Maybe you try something to explore your own relationship with gender

What will you do?

Beverly: I think I’ll make Jim a house dress/skirt

Jenny: I’m not sure yet  … I’m thinking I’ll focus on pants this month. 


Episode 84: #pfSewYourStash Reveal!

This month’s sponsor is Create Domesticity – $50 gift certificate

Clue for next month:

Catch up


Many #MeToo bags & carving a rubber stamp for creating craft fair items. 

Also: a stretch velour Toaster Sweater by Sew House 7 – both fabric & pattern gifted by Seams fabric. Both are in sale in Sept there. 

NYT crossword. Some update logged me out & broke my streak when I logged back in!! I’m so upset! 


More work with Creative Hinterland class. I learned how to add ease to a bodice to make it into a jacket!  It’s much more involved than simply making another size.  The shape of the sleeve cap changes, for example.  It’s a way to create ease specifically for wearing over something else, and keep the fit the same.  

New Patterns: 

Duet Skirt PDF Pattern Adult Sizes B – M 

I love this!  It’s a skort, perfect for running, playing pickleball, being comfortable in a short skirt!  

Free Skort pattern from Mood -The arbor skirt

Style Arc Montana dress extension pack

Sewing community news: Honest Pattern Reviews

What do you think of this Instagram account?

What have we done with #pfsewyourstash?

Beverly: I have been using my stash exclusively so far, EXCEPT – I bought some Merchant and Mills cotton jacquard (quilted sort of fabric) for a specific project.  It’s ok because I bought it from the store of this month’s sponsor!.  I have also been cutting a bunch of scraps to make some quilted fabric or maybe a quilt.  For simplicity, I decided to cut them all 5×5 and the little bits that don’t fit I’m tossing.  It’s a good thing to do while watching TV (FOOTBALL!) 

I also recently reorganized my fabric and I found some that I didn’t know I had!!!  I also created a bin for “one yard wonders” – things that I have a larger than ½ yard scrap, but not really enough to make much- Maybe I can use them for an Ogden cami? Not exactly sure what I’m going to do with them, but they have a home for now.  

The photo below is not all of the fabric, but it’s my “display fabric”. Ha!  I have a bin for rayons and others that are too slinky to stay put on a shelf, denim, double gauze – a few others.


Organized & started planning. I’ve seen mostly stash items this month, including using so many scraps & deep quilting stash for items to sell. 

Favorite ideas that folks have used for #pfSewYourStash




Episode 81: #pfSewYourStash

Sponsors this month:

Create Domesticity $50 gift card!

Catch up:


I talked about a lot on the bonus episode, so I’ll just talk about new ones since then.

8/18/22Nocturne PajamasSew Liberatedself
8/19/22Sport ShortsFriday Pattern Coself
8/20/22Sport ShortsFriday Pattern CoJim
8/23/22HinterlandSew Liberatedself


Muna & Broad Melba

Caramiya Yesterday Dress

New Patterns:

The Smith Woven Jacket by Style Arc

Simpler looking jean jacket.  

  • Buttoned fly front opening
  • Full length sleeves with inserted tab
  • Slip through cuffs
  • Two-piece collar
  • Front pockets
  • Hem facing
  • Back pleat
  • Front and back yoke

They are suggesting linen, silk and rayon, but I’m thinking canvas would be so cool.  Especially that lightweight quilting type canvas.

Jennifer Lauren Handmade Luna Lounge set

Extended Size Range – A to F cups in sizes NZ6 to 34

Up to hip 159.5cm or 62 3/4″

Angelica Gown: Max 52” bust, 46” waist, free hip – does this qualify?

Angelica gown – something for cosplay or costume

The Angelica Gown pattern is an elegant and versatile variant of the ‘Italian Gown’ style fashionable from the mid 1770s to the early 1790s. This type of gown has a skirt and bodice cut as separate pieces, differentiating it from the earlier Robe à l’Anglaise which featured a skirt and bodice center-back cut as one piece.

Both views of the Angelica gown feature deeply pointed backs waists, high narrow backs with sleeves set far into the back, a full pleated skirt open at the front, one-piece ¾ length sleeves, side bodice seams, removable interior boning, and a hidden front-laced closure.

Sand Dollar Dress pattern: max 56” hip

The Sand Dollar Dress is a warm weather patchwork dress that is easy to make with nine fat quarters (18” X 21” quilting cotton). With its simple a-line shape, pleated edge and extended shoulder panels, this patchwork dress has a flattering shape and is right on trend.

This month’s theme: Sewing from our stash. #pfSewYourStash  I think this one will be far easier for me than you, Jenny!  Although, we aren’t saying it has to be only from our stash – and certainly not all month.  

Beverly:  Here are some categories I plan to tackle this month:

  1.  The oldest or close to oldest thing in my stash – could be fabric or notions, patches, tools even. 
  2. The Precious princess.  I have at least 6 pieces of expensive or one of a kind fabric that I am not using for fear of regret.  I plan to tackle at least one of them this month on something beautiful that I will love.  
  3. Something I’m avoiding in my stash – maybe it’s boring, or what ever.  In that case, there is absolutely no risk in painting it or embroidering it or making a wacky hat out of it.  If it was just going to sit there forever, it was already dead. Only up from there.  


  • I’m wanting to tackle my oldest pieces of fabric. 
  • Scraps use
  • Oldest patterns still unsewn
  • Fabric that’s languished in my stash (like sheers or other weirdsies)

75: #pfRepresent reveal

Clue for next month:


Style ArcFree patternJuly
FatittyFree labelsJuly
Caramiya – by JennyGardenia ChemiseJuly

If you’re interested in sponsoring, please DM Jenny or PunkFrockers and we’ll get it set up!

Catch up:

Beverly: I finished my first pair of Ginger Jeans! My top stitching needs a lot of work – I need to practice more with tension, etc.  I am using the Guterman Mara 30 (Tex 100) for the thread.  It is recommended for top stitching but maybe it’s too thick?  Others use something different?

As for modifications, I made the size 16, with a little shaved off the hips and a little added to the waist. I used Cone Mills denim from Core Fabrics – super dark blue.  It is 6% poly, 2% spandex.  I really like it.  The legs are long enough for me!  I forgot to lengthen them and they are totally fine!  


So – all I’ve really done in a week is make a couple dragronfruit tops to go over the dozen + Yesterday Dresses we talked about last time!  I feel positively draggy about my sewing.  I think this is because I’m mostly just organizing, and downsizing, in my home right now.  In organizing, I’m again realizing that I really only want to keep patterns that are printed on the tissue paper by – they fit so well on standard bookshelves and keep everything compact and neat – which is saying something for me!

New Patterns:

True Bias has expanded their sizing on the Shelby Dress and Romper, smaller sizes here.

The model surprised me: Left is small size band, right is large size band… 60/53/62

BUT, I’m glad it is expanded – this is another I’ve been waiting for.  It reminds me of 90’s dresses I used to wear over leggings.  

Love Notions Saltwhistle Top and Dress Max size: 58/50/60

Saltwhistle Top & Dress Features:

  • Meant for woven fabrics
  • 2 views: Peplum and knee length dress
  • 4 sleeve options: sleeveless, ruffle, short puff & 3/4 bishop
  • Square, faced neckline
  • Three tier options
  • Full bust option

Sizes: XS-5X (See Size Charts here)

Skill Level: Intermediate

Kyle & The Machine:

Two sizes: Mule Tote, and Maxi Mule Tote

It’s a one size fits all tote bag – lol.  I know we focus on clothing, but I actually bought this one and have plans for a few totes for farmers markets, gifts, and the like.

Skyler short/skort by RAD patterns:

There are two skirt options – a circle skirt or a fitted skirt; or leave the skirt off altogether for some great shorts! The shorts feature 3 length options – shorties, mid-thigh, and bermuda. They offer an optional crotch gusset and have pockets along the side of the legs.

This pattern is drafted for slightly hourglass proportions. We think it’s important not to gender our patterns, but we recognize that body proportions vary and want you to be able to choose the right fit for you. Our hourglass proportion patterns were previously referred to as “women’s” and are drafted for bust and hip curves.

#pfRepresent recap:  

How did we do???

Beverly: I had all good intentions and just didn’t get what I planned done this month, but to be fair, I still have lots of time!  It’s only the 20th, so I have 11 more days! I received my Tauko magazine and the Helpa is calling me.  This issue, the featured models are a black woman and an old, round Asian woman.  I think anything in this issue totally qualifies for #pfRepresent.

Jenny:  Well, it’s still only 2/3rd of the way through the month – but I think I’ve done fine.  I’ve focused on patterns from one designer (CaramiyaMaui) that offers an unlimited size range (will draft if you exceed the limits of the size range) and diverse models on prior patterns (all are illustrations, not photos).  In addition, Caramiya has shown she cares about getting the curvy fit right before releasing anything for any size block.  

I still have a couple MimiG patterns from Simplicity that now meet our criteria on my table but need to dye some fabric before I can cut & sew.

Overall though, our first do-over hashtag was a bust – not many folks participated.  If you just weren’t feeling it, let us know why so we can adjust as we move forward.  In our poll asking what topics people would like, there was support for re-doing old topics, but right now I feel like we might not do that so directly in the future.  What did you think, Beverly?

Call outs:



JetAndTheBears: Patterns from SewHouse7 & Helen’s Closet with diverse range of models.  Patterns are FreeRangeSlacks & AshtonTop in a teal blue dyed duvet recycling

Sara.Fornia:  A new pattern by CaramiyaMaui – the tate body con dress.  Called out Caramiya’s commitment to size inclusion, noting that Caramiya will draft to fit your body if you aren’t covered in the available sizes.

RonaBirdSews:  HIghlighted a method of resizing tees you buy to fit you – buy the largest size, and use a tee pattern that’s right for your body.  Here the Muna & Broad Tarlee tee was used to refashion a TeePublic shirt.  Brava!

Beverly will be on a break for August – so look forward to some awesome guests hosts in the coming weeks!