Sponsor for June: Topstitch Makers Community : 3-month membership – all month long – total of 4 prizes! On Instagram they are TopstitchATL.
Catch up:
Jenny:
What I’m not share are the details on the 20+tops, skirts, and dresses that will be on offer in my new shop.
Beverly: Bought some beautiful fabric in Portugal at Mundo Dos Tecidos (World of Fabric)! It is viscose/linen blend (~60/40) with a white background and blue imprecise circles. The blue is like indigo dye and I bought it because it reminds me of the beautiful blue/white Portugese tile and because I think it will be perfect for the dress I plan to make from it. I plan to draft it myself, but it is very similar to the Style Arc Emerson Woven dress, a style I saw all over Portugal! My version will have short sleeves with ruffles, and multiple tiers. Also, I won’t include buttons. I like the look of the collar stand and placket, but only halfway – a V-neck really, but done as a half placket. I swore I saw this somewhere, but can’t find.
Cris Wood Sews Glow Dress– The Glow Dress is a mid-length dress with a V-neck bodice, elasticized shoulders and an elasticized waist. The skirt is tiered with a flat upper skirt and gathered lower skirt. This versatile style can be made in a variety of lightweight woven fabrics.
Slightly relaxed through the hips and leg, fitted with a contoured flat waistband in the front and elasticated waistband on the sides/back shorts designed for non stretch woven fabrics. The shorts come in three lengths (short, medium and long lengths) and feature side panel that offer an optional pocket, pocket flap, zippered pocket and curved or straight panels at the bottom hem.
I am so excited for this theme – so excited to hear everyone’s best tips! If we are super organized maybe we will compile them. Or maybe folks can just look at the hashtag – HA!
We are looking for any kinds of tips! Conventional ones from grandma, controversial ones – no judgement here!, time saving or slow and steady, all welcome. Could be in the caption of a make, a video, or even a text slide with “just the tip”.
Laura has generously donated a £15 gift certificate with free shipping anywhere in the world! In addition, she has provided a discount code for ALL our listeners for 15% off for all of May and June using the code: speckyfrockers
Catch up:
Jenny:
N/A
4/18/2023
Basic skirt
Jenny Hassler
Spoonflower
Linen Canvas
P&B
N/A
4/18/2023
TIe back top
Jenny Hassler
Fabrics Store
Linen
Cream
59.5
3/6/3023
Lodo
True Bias
Kokka Fabrics
Double Gauze
Red/blue
Beverly:
I’ve actually done a bunch of alterations – I made a top a long time ago that the neckline stands up on because of my straight shoulders. I fixed that and it fits so much better! I recently made a dress that looked too short on me so I cut it off into a top and it’s a nice swingy top that I think I will get loads more wear out of than I ever would have the dress.
Shirt for Jim! It’s a black button up shirt, that doesn’t quite meet our size requirements. However, the pants he is wearing it with do! AND, he is copying the model on the Elbe Textiles Fremantle Pants, for a true pose like the model moment!
I have also made a faux jumpsuit using blue/green gingham fabric from Merchant and Mills using one of my favorite tank top patterns that does not meet our new requirements and the Sew House 7 Free Range Slacks that do! I love this look. I made the tapered leg and with the tank and some sandals it sort of brings to mind if Audrey Hepburn was a bit sloppier and more relaxed.
This pattern comes in twenty sizes, to fit an 81cm/32″ bust to a 178cm/70″.
The dress is zero waste and has generous in-seam pockets, and can be made any length without affecting zero waste.
The blouse is low waste with patch pockets. Both have a Peter Pan collar, back semi-circular yoke, front buttons, 6mm (1/4″) tucks back and front, and an extended sleeve. The fit is loose and very comfortable, with fullness flaring from the tucks. Due to a quirk of zero waste, the sleeve length is elbow length for smaller sizes and three-quarter length for larger sizes.
The Amador Top strikes a perfect balance of chic and chill. Featuring a flattering V-neckline and Dolman sleeves, this effortless style is versatile and comfortable. Start sewing in the afternoon, and you can pour yourself a glass of wine, or a cup of herbal tea, and enjoy the sunset in your comfortable Amador.
Amador Top Features:
Options for regular bust and full bust
Dolman style, elbow-length sleeves
Flattering V-neckline
Designed for light to medium-weight knit fabric with excellent recovery
What sorts of things are we talking about? Actually probably talking about garment sewing adjacent, so things like quilts and bags would count.
Others:
Knitting
Crochet
Plants
Pottery
Painting
Macrame
Fabric shopping???
Over on Patreon, we discussed all about other Hobbies in the November 2022 Bonus episode. If you are a subscriber you can listen and if you become a subscriber you can listen to all of the back episodes as well.
Can you guess the theme? It’s a tough one this month.
April sponsors:
Stokx patterns: 3 patent apron patterns – this is perfect for wearing when crafting, cooking, or gardening. It reminds me of utilikilts in the best way – an modern industrial take on the half-apron.
If you would like to sponsor a prize for our show, all you have to do is be willing to send said prize anywhere in the world – easiest for those that offer pdfs, but many folks have sponsored with mailed prizes. Just dm us in Instagram or email punkfrockers@gmail.com.
What are we sewing?
Jenny:
4/17/2023
Asymmetrical Dress
DIY Daisy
Fabrics Store
Linen
Navy with yellow green ruffle
4/17/2023
Rectangular Jacket
DIY Daisy
Fabrics Store
Linen
Yello
Beverly:
My #pfStretchYourself project! Much less detailed than yours, but a good effort for sure. I drafted my own swing dress, complete with darts, all in one facing, and hem facing.
Emmie comes complete with two bodice versions – plain or slashed, as well as two different bodice lengths and a long sleeved pattern piece for those of us heading into the cooler months.
View 1 is ready to tackle your knit fabric scrap pile by combining the classic 80s slashed and pieced bodice with grown-on sleeves and a rounded neckline. The fabric combinations you can put together are endless – go for full rainbow, neutral colour-block or pattern clash perfection. You can even keep your top more subtle by using the same plain fabric for all pieces and letting the design lines sing for themselves.
If a classic t-shirt is more up your street, there’s also a cut-on-the fold front bodice (View 2), making construction even quicker and simpler for those just starting on their knit-fabric sewing adventure.
With a more relaxed fit through the bodice and a very gentle dropped shoulder/grown-on sleeve, both views include cut lines for a classic length t-shirt bodice as well as a long-line hem.
Then, depending on your season, keep the cuffed grown-on short sleeves or use the easy Turn & Hem long-sleeved pattern piece for year-round comfort.
Inspired by effortless French style, the Josephine Blouse is a floaty wrap top with long cuffed sleeves.
Add a beautiful scallop detail around the whole neckline, or keep the blouse simple and finish the raw edges neatly with binding.
The blouse features a pretty side tie on the outside and an elastic loop and button on the inside to keep everything in place. The sleeve cuff opening is bound and the cuffs are gently curved to mirror the scallops.
Sew your Josephine in a lightweight woven fabric with lots of drape and make sure to pick a fabric that presses well if you choose to sew the scallops, to help them keep their shape. We think Josephine would also look gorgeous in a sheer fabric worn with an Alderley Top in a matching or complementing fabric for a chic layered look.
The Edge fold top & dress is our take on a basic t-shirt (dress) with a little more edge! It has a relaxed fit, with subtle shaping around the waist and a slightly tapered hem (dress versions) to create a subtle cocoon shape. It has a V neck at the front and back and an extended cap sleeve. All edges are finished with cut-on facings!
Muna & Broad Alistra dress max 71.5” hip
#pfStretchYourself recap
If you would like to help support us making this show, please go to Patreon.com/punkfrockers to sign up for one of three tiers of support. We appreciate our patreon subscribers SOOO much!
Stokx patterns: 3 patent apron patterns – this is perfect for wearing when crafting, cooking, or gardening. It reminds me of utilikilts in the best way – an modern industrial take on the half-apron.
If you would like to sponsor a prize for our show, all you have to do is be willing to send said prize anywhere in the world – easiest for those that offer pdfs, but many folks have sponsored with mailed prizes. Just dm us in Instagram or email punkfrockers@gmail.com.
If you would like to help support us making this show, please go to Patreon.com/punkfrockers to sign up for one of three tiers of support. We appreciate our patreon subscribers SOOO much!
Catch Up:
Jenny:
Beverly: ZW gather dress (max hip 61” – to make it zero waste – easy to adjust if not zero waste) in beautiful Atelier brunette fabric that I got from Minerva. They don’t seem to have it anymore but it is Crane Island in cotton lawn. Love it so much.
New patterns/community news:
This week I want to talk about some new things coming up that might be of interest to our community. The first two I learned by listening to the Love to Sew podcast.
First, Helen’s closet has started a quilting pattern co called Cedar Quilt Co. I love Helen’s instructions for garment patterns and I’m excited to try her quilting patterns as I have never made a full-sized (or even lap) quilt and I think her instructions will help to make a really good quilt.
Next, Blackbird fabrics is starting a line of patterns! I am hoping and sort of assuming that they will be in a good size range as Caroline has gone through the size expansion journey along side Helen’s company. Finger’s crossed and we will update when we know more.
Third is something that may not be new to others, but it’s new to me. The Fabric Store – a NZ-based fabric store, has a line of patterns called Make by TFS. All pdf patterns go up to a 63” hip, but they will grade up as needed.
Sizing: NZ 4 – 32 size range. If you fall outside of this size range, we will be able to grade a size for you. There is a four week turnaround period per pattern for this service and is offered at no additional cost to the original PDF purchase. Simply fill out the form on our sizing page and we will be in touch!
Their range includes shirts, dresses, jeans, a blazer, and loungewear. Here are some of my favorites:
What do we mean by this? As always any interpretation counts, but originally intended as an opportunity to stretch ourselves by choosing a pattern just inside or even outside our current skill set.
Other ideas of course include – stretch fabric or elastic, clothes to wear whilst stretching, clothes for someone tall (hahaha)
Some ideas we are considering:
Beverly: I’m interested in both ways of thinking of this challenge. I definitely want to make some stretchy workout clothes for summer.
I love the Helen’s Closet Avery Leggings (up to 62” hip), which I’ve made as both shorts and long leg versions. What are folks best ideas for fabric sourcing for very stretchy/good recovery 4-way stretch fabric that are maybe not polyester?
I want to make a knit dress – skater style but a bit longer. I don’t have any of these and im not sure I’ll love them. I also want a knit skirt – one with a yoga waistband. Like the Style Arc Gorgeous Gore Skirt. But there’s also several simple tutorials online using your own measurements and desired length of skirt: Here’s one from Make it and love it.
Sew It Yourself book by DIY Daisy. I’m going to make every clothing item, and then remake it to look like it’s intended in the book. I’ll include suggestions for making changes to have the garments work out for fat bodies.
Sponsor this month: Club DIBY one pattern per week! (Do it better yourself) There are also quite a few free patterns if you want to try the instructions etc before you commit!
Beverly: This week I made THREE garments that qualify for #pfLegCages, all of them using the True Bias Emerson pattern. The first are using the mid-rise view, shorts length, size 14, no adjustments. They are pretty short! Also the rise is a bit low. I used stretch chambray that I bought for pennies ages ago. The second pair I made with the wild canvas I bought in New York. I added an inch to the rise and an additional inch to the length and I really like this fit. I have added a photo of Jim wearing them in the show notes – should be on my IG feed by the time this airs. Finally, I made a pair of the high rise view – which is another inch longer in the rise in a size 16, using black brussels washer linen. I think these will be in heavy rotation all summer! One thing I would change about the pattern. The waistband is designed for 1.25” elastic. Next time I will add some room in it to make it at least 1.5 inches. I don’t have 1.25, not going to go buy it and not going to trim my 1.5. I actually prefer a 2” waistband so maybe I’ll do that and alter the rise again.
New Patterns:
Lore Piar Senna Knit dress – Maximum 75” hip. The SENNA Knit Dress is a Y2K vibes long dress with long sleeves, an angled empire waist, and a plunging neckline with ruched bust details.
It has a back center seam for a closer fit to the body, side slits for movement, and a bit of leg show.
Sew Liberated Bedrock Tee pattern – Max 61” hip. Just slide the size chart on over. Just what the sewing community needs! Another indie tee shirt pattern. Haha! Fitted in the places you like, loose in the places you prefer a little extra room, Bedrock will be your new favorite tee. With two silhouettes, as well as tank, short sleeve, and long sleeve options, Bedrock is a quick sew and builds a strong foundation for your wardrobe.
The Anna Button-Up skirt is just like a pattern I love that is not yet expanded in size and goes up to 67”hip. Love it! I think it will be great in one of my new twill fabrics. There are also quite a few free patterns if you want to try the instructions etc before you commit!
Originally designed and sold by Fringe Supply Co., the Town bag is a great everyday purse and/or a do-it-all project bag, no matter what your project may be. It has the same drawstring closure and interior pockets – designed for corralling tools, patterns, and miscellany – as the Field bag (minus the grommets), but with the addition of tote-style handles and external front and back pockets. It’s large enough to fit a Field or Stowe bag inside but small enough to fit into a larger bag if needed.
Techniques involved include sewing a straight seam, working with heavy fabrics, and setting rivets (optional).
They are selling Fabric and Notions kit, just notions kit, just rivets or just the pattern
I bought a paper copy of this and made it a couple years ago; I’ve reached out to see if I can get the PDF or if I’d need to buy again. Does the photo make it clear I wasn’t happy with it in the size that wasn’t designed for me?
The Avenir Jumpsuit is an easy to sew jumpsuit with billowy sleeves and wide legs. It’s almost as comfortable as pajamas but still stylin’ enough to wear to dinner with friends! Elastic gathers the neck and waistline for a comfortable, easy fit. The pattern includes options for long sleeves gathered with elastic or short sleeves.
5% of proceeds go to charity. This pattern benefits Against Malaria (againstmalaria.com)
Our lovely Ferdi Dungarees will hopefully become a staple piece in your handmade wardrobe. With their relaxed, wide-leg fit and deep patch pockets, they are the perfect throw on outfit, for any time of the year.
The Ferdi Pattern comes with three strap options which can be easily lengthened or shortened, for your ideal fit.
Version 1:
Wide-legged dungarees with patch pockets and tie fastenings.
Version 2:
Wide-legged dungarees with patch pockets and open button fastenings.
Version 3:
Wide-legged dungarees with patch pockets and concealed button fastenings.
With its cute grown-on sleeves, gentle V neckline and angled bust darts, Farris oozes confidence and playfulness, as well as a bit of sophistication thrown in for good measure.
Choose the short pant legs to make a fun playsuit/romper, or use the long, wide-legged pants to make the elegant jumpsuit option. Drafted for a height of 170cm/5’7″, the pant falls straight down from the hip, with the short ending mid-thigh and the long leg falling to just above the ground – meaning you can wear flats confidently, knowing you won’t end up dragging the back of your jumpsuit hem on the ground.
Comfort comes first, with Farris sporting the same drawstring waistline as her sisters, the Quincy & Mayberry dresses. Add in all-in-one pockets, and you’ve got the perfect pattern to play around with loud prints, soft colours and everything in between.
Closet Core Jude Jeans– Get your groove on with the Jude Jeans! Designed for stretch denim, Jude is close-fitting through the waist, hip, and upper thigh before widening at the knee in your choice of bootcut or flare leg silhouettes.
View A is a classic 5-pocket style, featuring a mid rise and a bootcut leg.
View B features an ultra high rise with front patch pockets and a full flare leg with a wide faced hem.
All views include a back yoke, contour waistband, belt loops, and a fly front zipper, with a 32″ inseam.
#pfLegCages Intro:
Seems like a thing that Jenny would suggest, right???? Ha!
What qualifies – pants, shorts, leggings, culottes, jumpsuits with legs, leg warmers?
Great pants fitting technique: Top Down Center Out from @Ithacamaven – We interviewed Ruth on Episode 74
Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best. I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!
Catch up:
Jenny:
Hip
Date
Pattern
Designer
Source
type
Description
63
2/5/2023
Blanca Flight Suit
Closet Core
Seams Fabric
Canvas
Ruby Star florida gators & stripes
62
2/6/2023
York
Helen’s Closet
Gifted
Dobby
Blue flowers black leaves
62
2/8/2023
York
Helen’s Closet
Gifted
Denim
White – will dye later
59.5
2/11/2023
Lodo
True Bias
Girl Charlee
French Terry
Grey with rose gold stars
60
2/14/2023
Dragonfruit
Caramiya
Mended
N/A
N/A
And can you believe I’m actually cutting out the sandhill sling? I realize now that what I want is not a kit, it’s a pre-cut pattern, or… hear me out … I want someone else to make me one. There are so many pieces to cut! LOL!
I got the fabric at Gray Lines Linen in NYC. Love this place. The fabric is actually cotton and was on sale for 6.99/yd. Also got a heavy cotton/linen twill, burgundy color. They had really cool linen! Got some lightweight digital print and a couple of LOVELY twills – felt too soft to be linen, but guy assured me (and had a tag) 100% linen.
Also on my trip: Mood fabrics, B&J fabrics, Fab Scrap, District Leather, Pacific Trimming and Buttons, M&J trimming.
Sewing community news: “unpopular opinions” post. Reddit discussion here.
Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best. I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!
Catch up:
Jenny:
I have a Clyde jumpsuit cut out & ready to go in two colors of IL-19 linen dark green (centers) and navy (sides). Max 61.5” hip. Weird because these are ranges. I’m squarely in the middle of the 4X & can’t wait to see what happens next. I think it looks like Pietra pants if they became a jumpsuit.
Beverly:
Another pair of Ginger Jeans! Black denim that I purchased from Core Fabrics. So much easier after I have already altered the pattern to my shape. The waistband was a little stretched out this time – for me this isn’t a problem as I always wear a belt with jeans, but to prevent in the future, I plan to stay stitch earlier in the process. Instructions call for stay stitch once it’s put together but with all the pressing and top stitching, I need to do early. I’m not exactly a delicate sewist. Max 63” hip, 53” waist.
The Daphne Jacket is a shawl collar unlined jacket with an open front. The bodice is oversized and boxy. There are two patch pocket shape options: one square and one with a slanted opening. A phone pocket peeks out from under one of the patch pockets for convenience.
This pattern was created as an outerwear style that anyone, including beginners, can make, without intimidating elements like collar, buttonholes, and linings. The pattern is also meant for using old wool blankets and quilts. The simplicity of the pattern does not require a lot of cutting and hopes to retain all of the original charm of that vintage piece.
There are two views included in this pattern:
View A is a longer, below-hip jacket.
View B is a cropped jacket.
The pockets are interchangeable.
Instructions for a lined option are included at the end of the instructions booklet.
See photos of other sewists’ versions of the Daphne Jacket here!
MATERIALS:
The Daphne Jacket pattern is designed for woven fabrics. It works best for heavyweight fabrics that are finished on both sides. Examples are wool coating, boiled wool, tweed, flannel, double-faced fabrics, and quilted fabrics. Keep in mind that the jacket is unlined, so the “wrong” side of the fabric becomes the “right” side of the collar lapel.
For fabrics with patterning such as stripes or a tartan, keep in mind that extra yardage may be needed for pattern matching.
SIZING:
The Daphne Jacket is available for a full bust measurement range of 32” to 60”.
How to choose your size:
Choose your size based on your full bust measurement. Find the size with the closest bust measurement to yours in the Body Measurements chart. If between sizes, size down.
The intended fit for the Daphne Jacket is an oversized and boxy fit, with enough ease to layer a sweater underneath. Heavyweight fabrics are recommended for this pattern. If using a medium weight or lightweight fabric, consider sizing down.
The Pippa Dress features an asymmetrical design with a line of buttons going down the front. These are just for decoration – no buttonholes needed – so you can have fun button-hunting, without worrying too much about the size. Use larger ones for a statement detail, or keep them small for a more delicate look. You could also leave the buttons off completely and catch-stitch the bodice instead. Shaping is provided by bust darts on the front bodice and waist darts on the back bodice, to create a beautiful fitted silhouette. The dress closes with an invisible zip on the side, and the neckline is finished neatly with binding. Pick between a mini, midi or maxi length and sew the skirt closed, or leave a sassy slit (perfect for the maxi version!). We’ve also given you three sleeve styles to choose from, so you can sew the Pippa Dress for any season: short, 3/4 length or a full-length bell sleeve with elastic at the hem. Pippa needs a fabric with plenty of drape, like viscose or crepe, and she looks fabulous in both solids and prints.
#pfLocalFabric recap
Don’t forget to check out the website for a clue for next month’s theme!
If you would like to sponsor a prize for an upcoming month, please contact us through our instagram page or punkfrockers@gmail.com.
If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com. We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week! Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?!
Jenny: I’ve got lots of fabric coming in, and in a twist, I think I’m headed somewhere else with all my designing outside of just a regular website where you buy my dresses. It’s all a swirly in my brain (and the brain of some brainstorming peeps at my day job) but it’s so exciting, and so full of potential, and SO ME. I smile a lot when I think about it. So how’s that for mysterious progress on something I’m not currently actually sewing. Also: I’ve got two designs in the works that I’m going to (gulp) submit to Tauko magazine. I don’t expect to get picked – I’m really new to this, and often my designs are about making something that’s inspired by other something’s possible for a fat body… so maybe I’m not creative enough.
Beverly: For Christmas, I made my mom an Itch to Stitch Celeste dress using fabric I purchased at my local fabric store, Domesticity. I am using the Robert Kauffman Essex, cotton linen blend for the dress and it’s perfect. It’s not really a seasonally appropriate dress, but my mom really wanted a short sleeved shift dress and this one fits the bill. Man that fabric is so easy to sew!
It’s yarn dyed, light blue/white.
New patterns:
New standard for our podcast – only discuss patterns with a hip (or largest measurement) >or= 60”. This doesn’t apply to anything except what we will discuss here. As always, any pattern can be used for the challenges, regardless of size range, but we have both been feeling like the 55” standard is lower than we are comfortable with and so many pattern companies have expanded to 60 and beyond!
For this week’s new patterns, I went to the Curvy Pattern Database. It’s great because all patterns on this site meet the 60” and above standard! Here are a few from companies that I hadn’t even heard of before.
Inger Dress – Melilot patterns – sizes 32-64 – I think it’s a 61” hip – size chart in Norwegian I think. But you can get English instructions to the pattern!
