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83:#pfSewYourStash Shopping & Stashing

Sponsors this month:

Create Domesticity $50 gift card!

Catch up:

Beverly:

My Creative Hinterland class is going great!  So far I have made:

  1.  Peter Pan collar and keyhole closure – I only made the muslin of that.  Not my style, thought I’m glad to know how if I ever want to make something for someone sweet like my mom or a little baby.  
  2. Swing top with the darts moved from the side to the neckline and also made the armholes more “racerback” style and smaller at the shoulder.  I made the muslin and also a trial with a leftover piece of fabric that I had when I made a top with a 3 yard length (my usual length I purchase when I don’t know what I am making)
  3. A PRINCESS SEAMED BODICE! I have resisted even making princess seamed dresses because I thought they would be hard, but it was like magic to close up the dart and make a princess seam.  You can make the to the armscye or the shoulder and ours is at the shoulder.  For this hack we also made the kind of pockets that we like in the waist of the dress and they line up with the princess seams.  I think it would be fun to do some color blocking with that.  

Jenny:

I’ve got an opportunity to participate in a low effort holiday craft sale in December, so I’m working on designing the perfect bag for that. I spent my day yesterday testing possible designs.  The first was too flat, floppy, and a fail (INSERT PHOTO).  The second was closer to the shape I wanted, but also too floppy.  My third was just right.  I’m about to start making test bags out of linen scraps to work toward speeding up my production time (currently at approx 15 min per bag) as I move toward an assembly line style of sewing these.  

I’m planning to finalize my easy-peasey mitred napkin design as well. These will all be stamped with a rubber stamp (planning to create at least one design of that this week) that says “Eat the rich”.  

Both will be accompanied by collateral that tells the story of the maker/making/original of the items.  

I never thought I’d say I was enjoying making anything home dec – but there you have it.

New Patterns:

https://www.stylearc.com/shop/pdf-sewing-patterns/yvette-woven-dress-multi-size-pdf/

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Tilly and the Buttons Marnie

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Two women smiling.  One plus size with long brown hair wearing a lilac top with full sleeves and a wave form stiched in at the top of the sleeve and across the yoke.  The yoke is princess seamed with ruffles on each princess seam.  Below the yoke the skirt is ruffled and hits at mid-hip.  An asian model with long brown hair is a wearing a floral short dress with full sleeves.

Progress on #pfSewYourStash

Beverly: Used a leftover scrap from something I made about a year ago.  

I have a piece of fabric ironed and ready to cut out a dress using a fabric I purchased in October 2020.  I only started sewing in May 2020 so that is deep stash for me!  It’s a Kokka (pronunciation: Kok-ka ) fabric that I bought from Nekoneko Fabrics in Singapore.

Jenny: 

yesterday dress from a precious silk owned since pre-pandemic. 

Toaster sweater by Sew House 7 from precious Hello Friend Fabric covid bird fabric & solid cotton scraps

Buying habits. I’d like to chat about how & why we buy fabric & patterns, what’s good & not-so-good about that, and how much is too much, or too little stash (for us individually). What do you think? 

I’d do a check in on my statistics so far this year. 

39 different sources

21 more than once

9 more than 5 

3 more than 10:  Fabrics-Store.com 41, Seams Fabric 11, Joann 11

Beverly: Oh boy have  I spent a lot on fabric this year!  But I have focused more on quality than quantity, which naturally brings me to the kinds of stores I want to support as well.  I have used less than I have purchased, because I am a lot more careful about sewing fabric that cost me so much.  I don’t want to get too precious with it though!  Even if it’s expensive, it’s only fabric – most of it can be replaced and even those that can’t can be replaced with something else good.  

My stash size is a bit too large right now because I define the right size stash as what will fit in an organized manner in my sewing room.  And things are getting a bit over full now.  I should see if Christina from Domesticity would want to host a fabric exchange.  I know I’d end up buying stuff in her store and I’m sure others would as well so it would work out for her too.  

My buying strategy isn’t great.  It’s generally like this – I get and email from one of my favorite fabric companies and I say – oooooo I must have that. And I buy it without a plan.  AND, when I do buy for a plan I very rarely actually match fabric to plan. 

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82: #pfSewYourStash Sew Goth

Create Domesticity $50 gift card!

Sponsor this month:

Catch up:

Beverly:

Closet Core Kalle out of Cotton Voile from Mood fabric – space themed.  I’ve made three of these 2 as dresses and one as a shirt.  There are some things about the construction that I don’t like and I’ve also decided that I don’t really like the idea of shirts without inseam sleeves.  I mean shirts with collars and collar stands and plackets and the whole nine yards – to do all that and then not set in the sleeve seems a waste to me.  I know it’s a style choice but on my broad shoulders, fit is really sacrificed.

Fibremood Simone – I made a dress version of this blouse and I love it.  The sleeves are also grown on for this one, but it’s a drapey unstructured kind of garment so it works for me.  I made a size larger than my usual size and I’m happy with that.  I purchased fabric specifically for this dress.  I saw the top version made by @timetosew on Instagram and I loved it.  It’s a double sided double gauze from Atelier Brunette – with small check gingham on one side and larger on the other.  I used the larger for the sleeve ruffles and the body ruffle.  Do I look like a picnic table?  A wingback chair?  Dorothy?  Only wish I had little more of the fabric so I could have made it 4 inches longer.   

Jenny:

Self drafted dresses! I’m working on my block for a basic summer dress so I can then adjust it for other looks. I’m on my third bodice, and second sleeve (though to be fair the second sleeve is an optional second sleeve, not a new drafted version of the cap sleeve I’ve used so far). I think the bodice is pretty close to finished with the only open question being can I grade it to fit other sizes. Time will tell!

New Patterns:

Ether Dress – pattern Fantastique up to 59” hip

From the designer: The Ether Dress design was inspired by a light puffy cloud-like, seersucker fabric gifted to me. With simple construction, maximising volume and texture, the Ether will make you feel like you are from another world.
The structure is anchored by a rope that ties off at the centre front split. The rope crosses at the centre back into a loop radiating gathers. The loop detail lowers the centre back volume for an elegant silhouette. The pattern includes two views, one with sleeves and one without. And yes it has pockets.

Megan Nielsen Protea Capsule Wardrobe – smaller sizes

Larger sizes here max 62”

From the designer:

Protea is a loose fit woven capsule wardrobe set. Pattern features two neckline options, two sleeve options, two skirt options, darts at the bust, neckline facings, gathered skirt and anchored pockets.

View A is a dress with round neckline, gathered skirt & fitted sleeves. View B is a woven tee with square neckline & fitted sleeves. View C is a dress with square neckline, flutter sleeves, tiered gathered skirt & drawstring. View D is a woven tee with round neckline & flutter sleeves. View E is a tiered gathered skirt with elastic waistband & drawstring.

Peppermint Magazine West end jacket– Pay what you like

From the designer: Made in collaboration with fabulous French patternmaker Camille of Camimade Patterns for Issue 55, the Peppermint West End Jacket is a universally useful, gender-neutral design with clever construction. It features a touch of tasteful top-stitching and a few fascinating flat-felled seams. Not to mention patch pockets, perfectly placed for putting your mitts in and big enough to store all your essentials. Sew it in thick wool for winter warmth or lightweight cotton as a summer shacket – this is a pattern you’ll want to make again and again.

Progress on #pfSewYourStash

Beverly: 

I have a piece of fabric ironed and ready to cut out a dress using a fabric I purchased in October 2020.  I only started sewing in May 2020 so that is deep stash for me!  It’s a Kokka fabric that I bought from Nekoneko Fabrics in Singapore.

Jenny: yesterday dress from a precious silk owned since pre-pandemic. 

Next up: an conversation with Jenny & SewGoth’s account runner.

Sure!

Designers

Legend Sisters

Website: https://www.legendsisters.co.uk
Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/LegendSisters

Slightly Sinister Patterns:

Website: https://slightlysinisterpatterns.com

George and Ginger Goth and Grunge: https://georgeandgingerpatterns.com/collections/goth-grunge

Be My Goth Patterns:

Etsy store: https://www.etsy.com/shop/BeMyGothPatterns

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80: #pfSuperFan – Val

Val – discussions about adaptive & inclusive things.  This episode is SO hard for me to quantify in writing – I just encourage you to LISTEN & learn & enjoy the conversation.

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Ep 79: #pfSuperFan RUFFLES

Sponsors:

StokxPatternsOctopus fabric
Melilot PatternsFree pattern

What we’ve been working on:

Kelly:

  • A red carpet catsuit for an author
  • A very special three-piece suit for a very special – and very tall and curvaceous – client!
  • A top-secret B-movie inspired piece for an enthusiastic, fantastic woman!
  • Re-doing an entire cloak project because I’m being a BINCH about it

Jenny:

Mostly Melbas this week – a new pattern from Muna & Broad.  Love its simple lines which allow an excellent fabric to really show off. I’ve been adding patches on the back as well.  Also a few more Yesterday Dresses by Caramiya – all with added ruffles for sleeves.

RUFFLES

Where can we find inspiration in ruffles?  

Kelly:

Getting back in touch with my RUFFLER attachment

Old school ruffle inspo: Folkwear Childhood Dreams


Kelly’s favorite gathering technique

Ruffle vs. flounce

My Creature from the Black Lagoon hat (gill ruffles) OMG, that’s amazing – just the thought is inspiring! 

My favorite movie ruffles: Sadie Frost’s costumes as Lucy, in 1992 Bram Stoker’s Dracula (by costume designer Eiko Ishioka, who won the Academy Award for Costume Design that year)

Jenny: 

I follow the hashtag #RufflesForDays https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/rufflesfordays/ as it’s not too overwhelming but a very inspirational mix of ready-to-wear, couture, and handmade.

Katie Kortman is an endless source of inspiration.  Here’s a link to a great ruffled addition: https://www.instagram.com/p/CcK6-nvvCrg/

New patterns: 

Does anything new catch your eye?

Nina Lee Carmel jumpsuit pattern: Wide leg, high waisted, to hip size 58”

Helen’s Closet Free Orchard Top & Dress: sleeveless with bias binding, 62” hip

Reminder to rate & review PunkFrockers.    You can also submit a recording with your rating, comments, or questions to: 828-290-9043

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78: Aaronica & Inspiration

StokxPatternsOctopus fabric
Melilot PatternsFree pattern

Please forgive the less than awesome notes this week – I’m in the throes of a new job & wasn’t able to take the time I’d like this week.

Aaronica Needle & the Belle:  

Petite Stitchery pants – palazzo pants with pleats for days

Body suits: 

Made for Mermaids Tai body suit https://www.madeformermaids.com/product/mamatai/

Patt for Pirates Be Bold square neckline https://www.patternsforpirates.com/product/be-bold-bodysuit/

Petite Stitchery https://petitestitchery.com/products/adult-hibiscus-bodysuit-top-and-dress

Petite Stitchery https://petitestitchery.com/products/adult-pothos-unitard 

Friday Pattern Company: New body suit, ABC will have a styling reel for this one https://fridaypatterncompany.com/products/elysian-bodysuit-pdf-pattern

Dress:  Lola tank (Staystitch Pattern company)

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1008629703/the-lola-racer-tank-top-pattern

Loving size expansion that’s starting to happen from brands that don’t usually do inclusion.  Examples:

Edgewater Ave swimsuits

Nina Sharae: https://ninasharae.com/collections/cover-ups-swimwear/products/pre-order-bella-thong-one-piece-swimsuit

One idea to make: Use the Evie one piece from Caramiya with a modified Gardenia for gathered body/sleevelessness

Yesterday Dress by Caramiya

TheBespokeBusiness – new podcast sewing & business related – new from Aaronica

Exciting news from coaching business – got two new coaching ready to launch in September specific to makers: SoPaid for the content creators & SoPaid for the maker

Checkout Instagram on Aug 21 -22 to see big news as well!

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77: Inspiration with Kelly Hogaboom

Jenny’s a bit tired this week – so the notes reflect that. Please accept our apologies.

Sponsors:

StokxPatternsOctopus fabric
Melilot PatternsFree pattern

Theme:  #pfSuperFan

Kelly’s inspirations:

Shortall (that Jenny also mentioned) – made in a Spoonflower old-timey sea monster twill from artist kimatolmandesignstudios.

Kevin from Taylor and Hart (ethically-sourced, menswear-inspired fabrics); his dinosaur toile (knit)

Keeley Jones, wonderful tie-dye and dad style and her amazing tie-dye combo

Kelly’s favorite shirt, inspired by @permascowl’s art print (which she so graciously let Kelly use)

Ruby from Spokes and Stitches: her latest post on Solarpunk and its intersection with slow fashion

Ray Milland’s awesome corduroy sportcoat from Panic! In Year Zero (1962)

Beast of Hollow Mountain (1956), and Carlos Rivas’ amazing Mexican fashion. The film is kind of stinky but the fashion is incredible!

Jenny’s inspirations:

Sheila O’Kelly – beautiful interior finishing with practical shortcuts for making the beauty happen

Katie Kortman – OMG ruffles

Cherry Blossom Dresses on Etsy:

https://www.instagram.com/evanleggoe/

Paint artist: https://www.instagram.com/josielewisart/

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76: #pfSuperFan with Sara.Fornia

Sponsors:

StokxPatternsOctopus fabric
Melilot PatternsFree pattern

Let me introduce my co-host for this episode, friend of the podcast Sara.Fornia.

Sara.Fornia on Instagram: Intro!  

  • introduce yourself and tell folks how to find you.
  • When, how, and why did you learn to sew?  Learned to sew from grandma and continued to sew after she passed away.  Stopped sewing in college.  Started sewing again – mostly quilts – when she graduated.  A few years back, a new year’s eve resolution led to her learning to make garments for herself.  Didn’t know about indie patterns or the online sewing community.  Recalls going to Joann Fabrics and buying French curves and long tape measurements to get her head around how to upsize any Big Four pattern.  She assumed she had to learn to draft, but drafting hasn’t been required thanks to indie patterns.  Pretty much sews everything she makes now.  Doesn’t like to sew work out clothing, bras, undies, or PJs.
  • Fav makes: 
  • Fav designers?  Made by Rae, Friday Pattern Company, CaramiyaMaui

New patterns:

Caramiya Maui: Yesterday Dress

How many have you made?

Jenny’s made over 20 at this point!

Line drawings of four different dresses; view A is a low scoop dress with a high babydoll waistline; view B a low school neck dress with an empire waistline; View C a low scoop neck A line with curved hem; View D a low scoop neck a-line tank with a curved hem.  Includes yardage charts  for bodice & skirts.

#pfSuperFan

We’re asking listeners to find inspiration in other makers (or really anywhere) and tag #pfSuperFan.  You can twin with someone (ask permission to duplicate a specific garment/fabric), be inspired by someone (be respectful and check in with your inspiration), or express your Super Fandom (Doctor Who, Manga, whatever).

I’m really energized by this – and wanted to remind our listeners that you can post previous makes (I’ve got SO MANY that were inspired by Katie Kortman, for example) and new makes.  I’m planning to twin Beverly for sure – I’ve already picked out the outfit & the fabric – no surprise that it’s probably blue & linen.

Call us & give us your questions:

828-290-9043

Guest Edited by Kelly Hogaboom of Bespoke Hogaboom.

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74: Deliberate sewing practices

Featuring an Interview with Ruth (@ithacamaven) on the Top-Down-Center-Out method of pants fitting!

Sponsors

Style ArcFree patternJuly
FatittyFree labelsJuly
Caramiya – by JennyGardenia ChemiseJuly

New Patreon Subscriber – Welcome Iris!

Catch Up: 

Jenny: 

Tate Dress by Caramiya Maui

Cleo Skirt upsized: old, fat model featured in announcement. Spoiler: it’s me

So many 12 & counting – Caramiya Yesterday Dress

Beverly: I have been overwhelmed with work this week!  I am about halfway through my first pair of Ginger Jeans!  This is a stretch jeans pattern, recently upgraded to size 32, 63” hip measurement. I’ve purchased 11 oz Cone Mills S-Gene Stretch Denim Deadstock – Indigo from Core Fabrics.  I also purchased a zip and needles from them.  They recommended a stretch interfacing for the waistband that I also purchased but forgot about until just now.  Fitting method- just changing the waist and didn’t do a toile.  For stretch fabric I’d have to make a full pant toile and I didn’t have the appropriate fabric for it.  I probably should have baste fit them, but I didn’t.

I have several dresses on my list to make, but I don’t have time for much sewing right now.  My Tauko magazine came in and the Helpa dress is calling me.  Will I trace it out?  Probably not right now.  I have many already printed.  Probably my next one will be the Gabby or Elora from Fibremood.

New patterns:

Made by Rae Cleo upsized

Friday Pattern Company Elysian bodysuit

Sitewide sale through 8/8 – code ELSYIAN

Sewing deliberately: what does thoughtful sewing look like for each of us? What’s our sewing practice? How has it changed over the years? 

Jenny:

I’m planning to slow down. I’d like to make something every week, with a heavier focus on details, thoughtfulness, ironing, and pins. Is it even possible to change how you approach your sewing? 

https://www.moodfabrics.com/blog/how-to-master-difficult-sew

/

I want to find a way to successfully add pockets to most things I make. 

Challenge myself to try the cute tutorials I find on Instagram:

Dyeing with liquids:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CdWfnHspJAM/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

For me, slowing down involves 2 things right now:

  1. Fit – interview with Ruth Collins about the Top Down, Center Out method of pants fitting, shoulder and pants fitting – you can find Ruth @ithacamaven on Instagram.
  2. techniques with Saremy Duffy of Sew Sew Live – through her Sew Sew Guild

Techniques – bound hems, flat felled seams, handstitching – Inspired by sheila.okelly

  • That iron Jenny mentioned: Oliso TG1600!
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72. MimiG & #pfRepresent

Episode 72: Mimi G &  #pfRepresent

Sponsors

Style ArcFree patternJuly
FatittyFree labelsJuly
CaramiyaMauiGardenia ChemiseJuly

New Patreon Subscriber! Jo – thank you!

We’re digging into our past challenges to renew our call for increased representation by pattern companies.  I’d like to challenge our listeners to only make things this month from pattern designers that offer diversity in their imagery & design:  fat, old, queer, disabled, etc.

Link to previous intro episode:

Catch up:

Beverly:

I made the Merchant and Mills Etta dress (larger sizes here), a new wrap dress from what is becoming my favorite pattern company. Used https://fabrics-store.com/ black IL019 linen for my toile.  I think the bodice is too big, but I will wash it before I try a smaller size (already chose a size below my measurements. Made a few mistakes so I’m really glad I did a practice before my fancy fabric.  2nd practice will be a top.  

I started cutting out the Fibremood Simone – totally out of comfort zone fabric.  It’s Katie Kortman double gauze that I bought last summer and I’m mixing two prints, one for ruffles and one for the rest.  I am so excited to make the dress version too.  Did you add ruffles to your dress?  The others I have seen haven’t seemed as gathered as yours.  Love the fabric you chose.

Jenny:

Jenny’s makes since last time: Cardenia Chemise by CaramiyaMaui, Tate by Caramiya Maui, two Simones by FIbremood, Florence by Merchant & Mills, Amelie by Untitled Thoughts, Jill by Fibremood, and Kinfold by Jennifer Lauren Handmade.

New patterns:

Sew House Seven Sauvie

 Pattern Features – The low front and back V-necklines and narrow straps were designed to cover bra straps and optional bra keeper instructions are included to hide and secure your bra straps within the garment for that extra couture detail. 

With two pocket options, three hem finishes, two waist finishes and two hem lengths, you can mix and match any of the version’s features. 

Front & Back V-necklines – the back neck is low but should just barely cover a bra.

Shoulder straps that cover bra straps with optional bra keeper snaps.

Bust Darts

Pockets: Version A= topstitched, single layer pockets; Version B= in-seam, loose pockets

Version #1 – loose at the waist with above the knee hem.

Version #2 – loose waist, midi length with side vents.

Version #3 – wide elasticized waist, midi hem, A-line skirt.

Version #4 – wide elasticized waist, midi hem length with bottom ruffle.

Auvers Top by Itch to Stitch

Wearing the Auvers is like hearing a whisper in the summer breeze­—it is soft, gentle and delicate. The Auvers Top is designed for very lightweight woven fabric. In the front, two halves cross diagonally to create a V neckline. Elastic is applied on the bottom front to create a blouson effect. The back has a shirttail hem. Because it is sleeveless, it’s perfect to be worn under a jacket or cardigan, but of course, it is also great to be worn alone, tucked or untucked!

Fibremood 20!

Interview with MimiG about plans for improved representation at the Big Four pattern companies!

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B-sides: Sewing While Food Insecure

Kelly & Jenny talk about what it’s like to balance a need to create with being food insecure. 

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