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101 – Chatting with Seams Fabrics #pfLocalFabrics

Sponsor: Sheila O’Kelly https://sheilaokellydesigns.bigcartel.com – any of her large circular makeup bags – she will ship anywhere in the world!

Punkfrockers is adding a prize to help Terrance Williams reach his goal of selling enough headbands to buy a new sewing machine! 

Catch up:

Jenny:  I’m finding new patterns to sew instead of my current overall pattern. The next attempt for me is one by True Bias Riley.  Check my Instagram as well to see the experiment I’ve got going on with these stubbornly popular overalls that the design is not planning to extend sizing on – I’m trying them in sizes 22 to 30 to show how they fit on my body (which is 1” outside of the patterns range at the size 30).  

Beverly shared with me that she just doesn’t make things we can’t talk about on the show, so I’m going to try that too. Fingers crossed I can be more aware and do better.

Beverly:

First make of the year – Sew House Seven Free Range slacks (Up to 65” hip here) using the leftover blue/purple gingham linen from Merchant and Mills, that came all the way from England but still qualifies as #pfLocalFabric.

Klum House Fremont Bag – using their full maker kit – I bought the one labeled “seconds” for $35 less and I couldn’t tell what was wrong with it.  Very simple to make!

Community news:

 Closet Core has started a subscription service (all new Closet Core patterns are drafted up to size 32, which is 61” hip for them) similar to what Cashmerette has done.  Stringthing gave me a different perspective on this that I would like to discuss.  

New patterns:

Paradise Patterns Protea pants max 61” hip

The Protea Pant is a modern trouser with chic front pleats, sweeping pant legs, and a curved waistband. It offers two ways of sewing the waistband. The first way is better for light-to-midweight fabrics, and if you like the look of topstitching. The second method is for mid-to-heavyweight fabrics, or if you like a clean, more traditional trouser waistband. View A has pleats in front, View B has a flat front. This pattern will teach you some fun techniques, including:

Tammy Handmade Mila Jumper – max 60” hip size chart

The Mila Jumper is a stylish pattern that features dolman dropped sleeves that are wider at the shoulder and then taper at the wrists. This slip-on and slouchy fit makes the perfect cozy jumper for beginner sewists looking for a quick yet satisfying make! This jumper can easily be hacked for a cropped look or longer length.

Birgitta Helmerson Bell Jacket – max 60” hip

This is an oversized jacket with a rounded collar, front button closure, 3 front patch pockets, an inverted box pleat at the centre back neck, and wide sleeves that are perfect for fitting all of your winter layers underneath. The Bell jacket gets it’s name from the bell shaped sleeve, created with several darts sewn into the hem of the sleeve. This jacket is fully lined.

Xanthe Woven Dress from Style Arc – up to 70” hip

“A” line dress featuring front tucks, long sleeves, “V” neck and collar.

BREAK FOR SEAMS interview

If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com.  We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week!  Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?! 

If you would like to support us, please visit patreon.com/punkfrockers.

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PF100 – a look back at 100 episodes

#100 – let’s look back at our first 100 episodes #pfLocalFabrics

Sponsor: Sheila O’Kelly https://sheilaokellydesigns.bigcartel.com – any of her large circular makeup bags – she will ship anywhere in the world!

Punkfrockers is adding a prize to help Terrance Williams reach his goal of selling enough headbands to buy a new sewing machine! 

If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com.  We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week!  Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?! 

If you would like to support us, please visit patreon.com/punkfrockers.

Catch up:

Jenny:

Started a toile for a Tauko proposal. And I can’t say more or it’s not a valid proposal any more. 😂😂😂. Wanting to make overalls – send recommendations! 60” hip + I’ve already cut out a pair that don’t meet that requirement – hoping the designer chooses to expland since their current size chart does exceed 60”.  I’ve got the Leo by By Hand London on my cutting table next – max 69” hip.

Beverly suggested Helen’s Closet Ruby overalls

Beverly:

2 ZW Gather Dresses

New pattern:

Birch Vest Pattern Scout – up to 60” hip

The Birch Vest is a lined waistcoat with princess seams, a deep scoop neckline, and a front button closure. A transitional wardrobe staple, Birch can be worn alone or layered with matching separates for a tailored or casual style.

Lets look back at our first 100 episodes

Favorite episode? 

Jenny – #5 – Definitely not guaranteed sewing tips

Beverly – #66 All about Linen, #5, Definitely not guaranteed sewing tips

Favorite challenge?

Jenny – #pfScrappy – really resonated with listeners, and I actually figured out how to use scraps in my sewing.  

Beverly – #pfBondage – best name and also nice to slow down and add beautiful details.  I love the garments I made that month with bias bound waistbands

Favorite interview? 

Jenny – So many.  I loved Beverly’s panel chat about gender & sewing.  Interviewing MimiG was a stand out for me as well.

Beverly – Jim! Also Terrance Williams – #1 best laugh of anyone i know.  Also loved Florence Taylor – it was like having a long time friend come chat with us.

Favorite moment?

Jenny – Dammit, Beverly took mine – tkt, tx was AWESOME.  

Beverly – When we learned the difference between tkt and Tx for thread size!  Haha! 

What did you learn?

Jenny – how to slow down, and do things “righter”.  I curse/bless Beverly for making my sewing practice more annoying/better.  I learned how to edit a podcast.  I learned how to make friends with sewists.

Beverly – SO MUCH!  Jenny is an awesome business person.  She knows how to say things diplomatically.  I can change a normal situation to awkward and defensive and Jenny just fixes it for me.  I learned the extent of the hurt and harm caused by unequal access to patterns based on size.  And I learned that the sewing community can pressure that to change and succeed!

How is your sewing practice different? 

Jenny – OMG.  I use pins.  I iron.  I PREWASH.  DAMMIT.

Beverly – I’m better at knowing if something is my style before I make it.  

What do you want to see more of?

Jenny – More interviews.  We’ve stepped away from those (not intentionally) but I loved getting other voices on the show.

Beverly – Community love!  Would love more people to find and enjoy our podcast and for folks to feel welcome and at home with us.

Hopes for the next 100 episodes? 

Jenny – Seeing more changes in the greater sewing world that meet the needs of all sewists.  More attention paid to gender bias in sewing patterns, more extended sizing (60” is not enough!), more representation for fat, old, queer sewists.

Beverly – that we will meet the community needs and wants with our show.  

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Episode 99: 2022 in review

#99 the year in review – personal 

Sponsor: Sheila O’Kelly https://sheilaokellydesigns.bigcartel.com – any of her large circular makeup bags – she will ship anywhere in the world!

Punkfrockers is adding a prize to help Terrance Williams reach his goal of selling enough headbands to buy a new sewing machine! We’ll buy you a headband if you are the lucky winner this month.  Episode 13.

If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com.  We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week!  Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?! 

If you would like to support us, please visit patreon.com/punkfrockers.

Catch up:

Jenny:

Sewed several ponchos, working on a free pattern for two different versions. Struggling to update my patterns to all meet the 60” new PF guideline for mention on the program.

Beverly: Jim’s matching vest and fanny pack

Merchant and Mills Billy

Greenstyle Adventure Bag

New pattern:

Lore Piar Farra Pants Up to 72” hip!  

It is a classic 5-pocket pants, with two front pockets, 1 coin pocket, and two back patch pockets.

The fit of this pattern is high-waisted and fitted at the waist, hips, and thighs with negative ease until the knee.

The yoke cut is unique and not only makes this design look special visually but it is also designed to accentuate and give the best shape to your back with the help of two strategically placed darts.

You can choose the style of the leg with 3 different views:

VIEW A: Straight

VIEW B: Wide

VIEW C: Flare

This pattern also comes with 9 embroidery templates to rock on your patch pockets.

What did 2022 in sewing look like for us? 

Jenny:

203 total makes

2020: 356

2021: 244

2022: 203

664.5 yards of fabric

Average of 3.3 yards per garment

155 Dresses, 23 tops, 13 skirts

34 different designers

Designer#
CaramiyaMaui60
Jenny Hassler44
Other18
Made By Rae15
Cashmerette10
CrisWoodSews10
StyleArc8
Muna & Broad6
Fibr&Cloth5
Jennifer Lauren Handmade5
Fibremood4
Helen’s closet4
SewHouse74
5 out of 43
Closet core3
Elbe Textiles2
Friday Pattern Company2
Grand Total203

47 different sources of fabric

Source#%
Other4120%
Fabrics-store4020%
Joann157%
Fabric.com136%
Seams Fabrics136%
Gift94%
Domesticity84%
Hello Friend Fabrics84%
Mood84%
Core Fabrics73%
Fine Fabrics USA73%
Julia Cost63%
Spoonflower63%
Simplifi Fabrics52%
Dharma42%
Warp & Weft Textiles42%
Blackbird31%
CraftHabitRaleigh31%
Mulberry Silks31%
Grand Total203100%

Linen was my favorite fabric.  Thanks, Beverly!

Type #
Linen53
Cotton35
Cotton knit24
Other22
Rayon10
Double gauze7
Ankara6
French Terry5
Yarn dyed cotton5
Denim4
Jacquard4
Lawn4
Poplin4
Sateen4
Silk4
Eyelet3
Quilted3
Velour3
Voile3
Grand Total203

57 different test sews (some of these are multiples of the same garment, 80% were paid)

Beverly:

I kept track of my makes this year!  I made 98 items, almost entirely garments!

13 were items for other people, namely Jim and my mom.

About ⅓ dresses, ⅓ tops, and half that in pants and shorts combined.  Others are pajamas, workout clothes, bags, etc

Avg 2.3 yds fabric

40 diff designers

81 diff patterns. Jenny: 68

29 diff fabric sources

41 diff types of fabric!  How can this be right?

79 success, 10 fail, 6 meh. Jenny 154 not in my closet now

Top three fabric sources: Mood, Domesticity, Stylemaker

Top three designers: Sew Liberated, Merchant and Mills, Elisabeth Susann

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Ep 96 New Year Planning

#96 Plans for 2023. #pfPajamaParty

Sponsor: Punk Frockers!  Gift bag of labels and patches

Advent calendar

Catch up:

Jenny:

  • Making dresses for first friend test dresses
  • Learning about wholesale
  • The experience of opening a packaging

Beverly:

Pajamas for #pfPajamaParty!

Using beautiful checked flannel fabric from Core Fabrics.

Olya shirt Paper Theory

Sandhill Sling from Noodlehead

Kit webbing is 54” long

New patterns:

Twig and Tale Grove Coat – updated sizing – to 72” hip

A long discussion on how to plan for 2023. 

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Episode 95: New patterns

#95 All the New Patterns! #pfPajamaParty

Sponsor: PunkFrockers!  Gift bag of labels and patches

Catch up:

Jenny:

My new knit dress is coming along.  🙂

Also a ONE SHOULDER DRESS – OMG.  Does anyone beside me want this?  I don’t know but we’re gonna find out.

Beverly:

Running pants!  Supplex fabric – used the True Bias Hudson Pants, smaller range here, men’s here.  Did the same with a pair of shorts.  Love them.  So much more comfy than leggings and held up for half marathon!

Update: Quink Colorway!  – Fatthighsandmermaidpants – Parker pens “THE English pen” blue colorway is called quink!

Sewing community helpful note:

Merchant and Mills video tutorials

New Patterns:

Jenny did: Tammy, Lucille, Lucy, Elba, Nellie

Fibremood Special Edition!,

Adventure Bag Sewing Pattern

Pattern Emporium:

All In easy fit shirt

Ocean Daze Very oversized shirt

Cashmerette Club this month –  Avola Slip dress – perfect for #pfPajamaparty

Peppermint Magazine Pay what you wish ($0 – 20) Rosalie Skirt up to 60” hip

Itch to stitch Shau vest pattern

The Shau Vest is a perfect layer on a fitted blouse, turtleneck, T-shirt or dress. Not only does the Shau elevate your outfits, but it also adds warmth, thus extending the practicality of cool-weather clothes. The Shau Vest can be adapted for different looks. Use small-floral fabric with fur trim to make an Asian-inspired vest, or use wool plaid fabric with leather trim to make a Highland look.

Next up for us:

Beverly: Christmas dress using M&M checked linen red/navy – Hinterland Hack of my own (simple), Itch to Stitch Celeste Dress for my mom

Marlo Sweater from True Bias

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#92 Winter fabrics & patterns – #pfSewNotClothes

Sponsors:

Noodlehead – pdf pattern

Our last month sponsor Needle Sharp has offered a discount code for all of our listeners this month!  It is: PFNOV

Johassler: Labels & patches for one lucky winner

Catch up:

Beverly:  Making a Merchant and Mills Sidney shirt  (larger range here) for Jim, using the M&M jacquard I got from Domesticity.


Jenny: 

If you spot M&M on sale, let me know. I’m in love. Starting drafting of a second dress. 

M&M+ barkcloth dress – self drafted, #CuteButOffputting, includes my “Perfection is not my purpose” patch on the back in yellow gingham.

New patterns:

Closet Core Nicks dress

A) Line drawings of a dress from the front & back.  The dress has set in sleeves, a highwaist that is elastic gathered.  The sleeves end in gathered narrow cuffs.  The skirt is maxi length and tiered with a longer tier for the final tier.

B) a tunic with the same button front bodice and a single tier gathered skirt that is lower in the back than the front.

C) a v-neck top with a yoke back, long gathered sleeves ending in a cuff.
A photo of a person with long grey hair wearing a dress in red with white flowers, and tan heeled mules.  The dress has a v-neck button front bodice with a three tiered skirt.
A person with long grey hair is wearing a v-neck top with long full sleeves that are gathered at the wrist with elastic.  The shirt is work with cream pants & a bronze necklace.

Lore Piar Vana Dress – up to body measurements: 63/58/75

Technical line drawings of the Vana Dress by Lore Piar.  Two views.  A) Long sleeves with gathered sleeve caps, ending in a deep buttoned cuff.  The dress has gathered cups, with a wide shaped waistband whose center extends down to the knee length hem.  The side panels of the are very gathered over the hips.  View B is the same dress but with shoulder ties instead of sleeves.  View C is the shirt version of the first view A dress.
A brown person with long brown hair is wearing a white with black polka dot version of the dress described above, paired with black leggings & boots.
A brown person with long brown hair is wearing the top version of the Lore Piar pattern above in a white back ground fabric with multicolored flowers in autumn tones.  They are wearing a gold watch and bracelet on one wrist, and silver bracelets on the other.

Topic:  Winter fabrics & patterns

Favorite fabrics for winter sewing:

Jenny: 

  • Linen – it’s all weather!
  • Micro cords – textured joy
  • Stretch velours – sumptuous and if cropped all weather!

Beverly:

Flannel  – good for loungewear, linings of outerwear (though not so good for sleeves), and basic grunge button ups #GarbageFlannel

Denim – not just for jeans.  I want to make a pinafore type dress with denim (we called them jumpers).  

French Terry – my favorite is from Style Maker Fabrics, but not sure if they are out of stock or not carrying any more.  

Favorite patterns for colder weather:

Jenny: 

  • Sew House 7: Toaster
  • Caramiya Maui: Chive dress

Beverly:

One of the best winter memade wardrobes is by Sheila O’Kelly

True Bias Hudson Pants

I am thinking of making some flannel-lined Sew House 7 Free Range Slacks 

Want to make a long-sleeved version of the Merchant and Mills Etta (smaller sizes here)

Favorite non-clothing pattern for colder weather:

Jenny:

  • A raglan knit poncho – large needles, only a couple balls of thread
  • Lap blankets from flannel (WOF x 3 yards, folded in half, loosely quilted by following design elements)

Beverly:

 I started but have not finished a rag quilt.

I have never made but want to make dog coats!  I know this is clothing but so is a poncho.  

Merchant and Mills Barka, Closet Core Dog Coat Free!

Favorite cold weather activity for wearing your me-mades:

Jenny:

  • Driving the parkway to look at the lovely cold, crisp scenery
  • Drinking hot cocoa and seeing how long it takes me to stain whatever I’m wearing

Beverly:

FOOTBALL watching

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Ep 91 Sewing Classes #pfSewNotClothes

91 Sewing Classes #pfSewNotClothes

Sponsors:

Noodlehead – pdf pattern

Our last month sponsor Needle Sharp has offered a discount code for all of our listeners this month!  It is: PFNOV

Johassler: Labels & patches for one lucky winner

Catch up:

Beverly:  Working on HAND quilted vest using Grainline Tamarack pattern (large sizes, small sizes) – will talk about later – it’s a class I’m taking


Jenny: 

I’ve made a wonderful dress from M&M fabrics – deets on my Instagram. 

A fat white person stands in the middle of a deserted road wearing orange Ugg boots, and a dress that has puffy sleeves.  The left side of the dress is orange and white checks, the right side is olive green with orange windowpane patterns on it.  The background is trees in various states of color change.

New patterns:

Love Notions Legato Jeans (58/50/60)

  • Meant for denim with ~1-3% spandex/elastane
  • Curvy and straight waistband options
  • Full and flat butt adjustments
  • Details like topstitching, rivets and metal button closure

Topic: Sewing classes

Sew Liberated Creative Hinterland -$295.00

The Creative Hinterland: Patternmaking for Mindful Sewists teaches you the skills you need to modify sewing patterns to your liking, bringing a spirit of playfulness to your sewing hobby and your closet.

Includes drafting instructions for 12 Hinterland hacks, a value of $192, PLUS over 20 hours of video instruction and membership in our vibrant online course community.

This course is designed for intermediate to advanced sewists.

Line drawings of different garments.  Top row: a sleeveless dress with bust darts and a gathered skirt, a sleeveless bias tank, a long sleeved dress with a gathered skirt and a round neckline; a jacket with a V shaped pieced front and buttons; a wrap dress with gathered skirt and long sleeves, a dress with grown on sleeves with ruffles at the sleeve end, and a gathered skirt with a flounce hem.  Second row: a pin tuck front sleeveless tunic with a shirt style hem; a peasant shirt; a button down top with a pocket on right chest, and left hip, and long sleeves, and a bound neck; a dress with underbust darts, short cuffed sleeves, a camp collar, and a full circle skirt; a sleeveless jumpsuit with button front; a dress with a button bodice, and 3/4 sleeves, and a bound collar, and a full gathered skirt.

Pattern making topics covered:

  • Tools and supplies
  • How-to coaching on research and style planning
  • Mindset coaching
  • Rotating darts into new locations
  • Creating new seams, including color blocking and princess seams
  • Changing seam locations and functions through developing yokes and closures
  • Adding design ease through gathers, slash and spread, and in seams
  • Changing armhole and neckline shaping
  • Adapting sleeves to different styles and fit preferences
  • Developing raglan seams in two different ways
  • Drafting different edge finishes like shaped facings and bias facings
  • Drafting collars, including flat collars and a convertible collar
  • Creating new pocket styles
  • Drafting a circle skirt to fit your bodice
  • Drafting a culotte bottom to fit your bodice
  • Developing details such as pintucks, keyhole necklines, and released darts

Sew Sew Guild

  • Different levels of memberships for different prices.  Skill builder classes are in depth instruction for specific sewing areas: sleeves, collars, pockets, zippers, buttonholes, etc.
  • Sew Sew live – search her you tube channel and you may find your pattern already sewing by Saremy and a full sew along in real time! 
  • Also has a message board.  I’m a member but I really don’t take advantage of it. 

Courses offered through local fabric stores– many of these are focused on beginners and many are not accessible for everyone.  Things to look for: size-inclusive patterns, room between sewing machine stations – COVID has been helpful in this regard, but not all rooms are easy for everyone to get around in.  A good way to meet sewing friends and to learn new skills.  I have done “this looks right” quilting, but don’t know the rules – best to know them before I break them.  My entry into quilting is this quilted vest class focusing on hand quilting.

Domesticity offers many classes for locals.

Confident Pattern making & drafting: Erbaccia Studio

Learn Illustrator for digital pattern drafting/grading

Weekly meetings for 12 weeks

Forever access to the video instructions, new videos still being added sometimes

Start with a button down fitted shirt, then apply those skills to other forms

Maggie McGill how-to-instagram for small businesses

Planning for Instagram development of your business

How to engage, set calendars, etc

Branding!

The Sew-It academy

Mimi G’s sewing school

  • STEP-BY-STEP COURSES: Each course is designed to be concise and easy to follow.
  • OUR METHOD: We use easy to understand terms and clear instruction to keep you interested and excited as you go through each course.
  • COURSE GUIDE: Each course is designed to build on the skills learned on the previous course.
  • AUTO RESUME: Log in and get right back to where you left off.
  • OUR FOUNDER: Mimi G has taught tens of thousands of people to sew and has built a recognized and respected brand. She is most known for her ability to teach anyone.
  • INCLUSION: With over 54 womenswear courses and 29 menswear new courses added monthly we offer something for students at each skill level.

New York Sewing – in person or virtual classes

Located in New York City’s Garment District, The New York Sewing Center has long been an authority on sewing education. Now, the center has taken its instruction to the digital realm, with a variety of classes, workshops, and private lessons offered online through Zoom or FaceTime. The uniqueness and wide variety of choices in classes that the New York Sewing Center offers put them in the top slot.

If a one-on-one private lesson is what you’re after, you can learn at your own pace courtesy of an instructor at a cost of around $60. The company is also flexible—if you don’t have a sewing machine, you can receive lessons in hand sewing, embroidering, or knitting. The New York Sewing Center team can also help you find a machine that matches what you’re looking for.

You can also sign up for an online workshop. Offerings are constantly changing and updating. Past classes include Virtual Summer Top workshop (you’ll make a chic fabric and elastic top ) and Virtual Knit Jumpsuit class roughly ($275) , during which you’ll create your own soft, stretchy, and stylish jumpsuit (pattern included). The New York Sewing Center has classes designed for all levels, including kids. They can sign up for a Virtual Fashion Summer Camp (about $375), learn how to make a skirt and scrunchie outfit, and more.

Prices vary depending on which class you choose, and they can last anywhere from one hour, a full day, or even 2 to 3 hours per week for up to six weeks to complete.

The English Taylor – YouTube channel with instructions for menswear

Skillshare has classes in pattern making, sewing, draping, etc

Getting an education in pattern construction will help you further understand how garments come to life. Hyden Yoo, the instructor of this course, is the creator of his own eponymous fashion label, and his mens- and womenswear have been featured in publications such as GQ, Elle, Details, WWD, Nylon, and W.

In this Skillshare class, Yoo outlines how important the paper pattern is in garment production. The class is designed for beginners and will teach you a simple, four-step process for pattern drafting: measurement (taking proper measurements to build a pattern), detailing (creating different collar types), materials (choosing materials for the optimal fit), and finally, paper drafting (actually drafting the paper pattern).

You’ll complete the lessons by creating a pattern for one of the workhorses of anyone’s wardrobe—the classic T-Shirt. If you don’t have a Skillshare membership yet, you’ll be able to take the class for free during the platform’s 30 day free trial period. A Basic Membership is free with limited access. The Premium Membership costs $32 per month, or about $170 annually.

Craftsy : like Skillshare, but just crafts

Classes from Indie pattern makers:

Closet core Ginger Jeans

Cashmerette offers several, including: pants, bra, jeans, etc.

Sew Over it Stitch School

Helen’s closet sewing tutorials -free

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Ep 90 Gifts for Sewists

90 Gift sewing – #pfSewNotClothes

Sponsors:

Noodlehead – one pattern. I’m wanting to make the Sandhill Sling.

Our last month sponsor Needle Sharp has offered a discount code for all of our listeners this month!  It is: PFNOV

Johassler: Labels & patches for one lucky winner

Catch up:

Beverly:

Finished my Closet Core Mitchell Trousers


Jenny: 

So. Many. Napkins. 

I also made a last minute Halloween costume. 👻🎃👻🎃

New patterns: Fall/Winter collection from Deer and Doe

Circee Dress and skirt

A yellow background with black technical illustrations of a dress with princess seams and a wrap front, and a waist tie.  The dress comes in two lengths, maxi & knee length.  Below the dresses are illustrations of a knee length & maxi length skirt with buttons at the waist..
Two models wearing the same dress in the same fabric.  On the left a white person with long red hair wears a red/white patterned dress with long sleeves with front slits.  They are a medium build.  On the right, the same dress is worn by a model with a plus size build.
A brown person with shoulder length black hair is wearing a black 3/4 sleeve knit top with a deep squared neckline.  It is paired with a maxi skirt where the left 2/3 panel is navy and the right 1/3 panel is olive green.
A brown person with a curly bob is wearing a white tee shirt with short sleeves and a round neckline.  It is paird with a golden skirt with red, black, and cream leaf patterns.  The skirt is knee length.

Orage Dress, top and skirt

A teal background for this technical drawing sheet.  View A is a dress with a full skirt that is longer at the front than the sides, and a bodice that exposes a window of flesh at high chest.  The sleeves are long and close fitting.  VIew B is a square neck top with 3/4 sleeves.  View C is a round neck tee with short sleeves.  View D is a maxi skirt with a full hem.
A photo of two models side by side.  The left model is plus sized, the right model is a medium build.  Both are fair skinned with red hair that is long.  The dress they are wearing is navy with a skirt that is longer at the center front than at the sides.  It has sliver of skin exposed at the high chest.  The long sleeves are close fitting.
A brown model with short curly hair is wearing a white cropped tee with a round neck and short sleeves.  It is paired with burnt orange pleat front shorts.

New Tauko magazine patterns

Topic:  Sewing gifts – what seems realistic to you for this year?  Are we getting more generous? LOL!

I thought we could ID new patterns that would make good gifts (for ourselves or others), as well as ID actual items that would make a nice treat for the sewing enthusiast in your life.

Oliso Iron 1600: $199, multiple colors, pops up and down

Bobbin Clips: $7, colorful, keep cats from eating my bobbins

Magic pins:  $8, you can iron over them

Pattern – custom sewing machine cover: free!

Subscription to Tauko Magazine or Fibremood

Books:

Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing

The Act of Sewing by Sonya Philip

Ahead of the Curve, by Jenny Rushmore

Sewing Labels – link to KATM countdown calendar

Sarah Hearts

Inside Voices Labels

Pattern weights

Videos with ideas for gifts for sewists

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87. CurvyPatternDatabase #pfGenderMORE

Sponsor: 

Taylor.hart.fabrics$100 gift certificate

Jenny: 2 yards of a pink white blue moth design created by a non-binary trans masc artist in a cotton knit. 

Catch up:

Beverly: Creative Hinterland class still going strong, but a bit slower now.  Did my THIRD toile for my jacket.  I am so glad I did because there were things wrong.  

Jenny: 

Two new self-drafted dresses, both with cap sleeves & a ruffle at the hem.  Planning further development of sleeve options coming sooooon.

Projector still in the box.  Sigh.

NEW PATTERNS: 

Fibremood 21

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Guest: Sarah of CPD

Categories
episodes

#86: New patterns for #pfGenderMORE 

#86: New patterns for MORE 

Sponsor: 

Taylor.hart.fabrics$100 gift certificate

Jenny: 2 yards of a pink white blue moth design created by a non-binary trans masc artist in a cotton knit. 

Catch up:

Beverly: 

Shirt – Byrdie Button Up from Pattern Scout – 

The shirt has a full collar with stand, sleeve placket, two front pockets, darts.  Very nice pattern with great instructions.  It doesn’t have a yolk, which may be important for folks that need more shaping on their back.  It fit me well, but in the end I didn’t think I’d wear it.  I was more wanting an oversized shirt (so I should have made one!) But my mom LOVES it!  

Jenny: 

  • Carving stamps
  • Plans to block print fabric
  • Printing labels just for me
  • Taking drafting & grading class with Victoria of Erbaccia Studio starting in mid-Oct 
  • Projector for patterns: Epson PowerLite 680 H746A Ultra Short Throw Projector w/ Remote 

New patterns:

KnowME – the good, the bad

  • Diverse representation rarely seen in Big 4 patterns – all POC, black
  • FOUR patterns go up to a 58-60” chest (another leap for Big 4) – guessing based on the limited chart shown on the pattern page.
  • Most patterns end at 48” chest – sigh
  • No visibly old sewists, one sewist above a small fat sizing visibly
  • Men’s patterns end at size 52

Now you can sew comfortable undies for and maintain a high level of modesty. This pattern includes instructions to make boxer brief style underwear with two different hem options, two lengths, and two rises. Women love their Boxerwear for under dresses and skirts, sleeping and even daily underwear. Be careful though, you may need a larger dresser to house all of your new undies 

Not new but new to me:

Blueprints for Sewing Moderne Coat max 61” hip

Moderne is a drop shoulder cocoon coat. It has generous pockets and a roomy fit. It is inspired by Art Moderne architecture, a style prominent in the 1930’s and 40’s that featured aerodynamic curves and clean horizontal lines.

Version 1 has a sporty knit collar and cuffs and its curved seams are accented with piping. It is fully lined and closes with a zipper.

Version 2 features a flat band collar, 3/4 length sleeves with a decorative notch, and gracefully curved side hem vents. It is unlined and closes with buttons.

This collarless coat is designed to play well with your favorite hand knit scarves. Make it up in denim or canvas for a light spring coat or in wool with lining for cozy winter outerwear.

CLOSET CORE MITCHELL TROUSERS

Upcoming events:

Atlanta Frocktails:

Saturday, October 22 at 6pm, City Winery Atlanta will be the host of our event, on the patio with lots of fashion fun, food and our signature Frocktail. Make your most fun frock and come hang out for a night off. There will be a camera everywhere you look, fun surprises from our Sponsors and new friends will be the reward.

CurvypatternDatabase contest