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episodes

119 #pfSewingAdjacent wrapup

Clue for next month: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF30GpW__vo

Sponsor for May: The Specky Seamstress!

Logo for the Specky Seamstree is a green circle with a blue circle containing a white sewing machine, and an illustration of a white face with red glasses and long blonde hair.

Laura has generously donated a £15 gift certificate with free shipping anywhere in the world!  In addition, she has provided a discount code for ALL our listeners for 15% off for all of May and June using the code: speckyfrockers

Catch up:

Jenny:

Plus sewing for website. Also: prepping to sell the house!  And failed knitting project.

Beverly:  Portugal trip!  Lisbon, Porto, Carvoiero (near Faro) Brought a sewing project to hand sew – the Matchy Matchy collage gather top.  I cut some Lady McElroy two sided double gauze, blue/black gingham small/med check.  Problem – didn’t bring instructions so I did it wrong.  With french seams.  Entirely by hand.  Doh!

Also brought a sewing adjacent project – a knitting project, a hat!  I successfully completed this using yarn I bought at Maryland Sheep and Wool.  For those interested, the pattern is free, called the February Hat by Kate Gagnon Osborn– can get it on Ravelry – 1 skein worsted. I used beautiful MCS from Fiber Optic Yarns in the the Bermuda Triangle colorway.  Uses provisional cast-on for wonderfully squishy doubled brim.

New Patterns:

Green style patterns Sly tank – up to 62” hip

A brown smiling person with long hair is standing in the woods wearing a white and grey snow leopard print tank top.
Line illustrations of tank tops in different lengths from crop to below knee length.

Green style patterns Sundown Skirt. Up to 62” hip

A white person with long dark blonde hair and a hat, is standing on the beach near some trees wearing a white tank top and a blue and black check skirt with a shirt tail hem.

Grainline Studios Austin Dress – up to 61” hip

Two versions of a dress side by side, one pink and one teal with black dots of various sizes.

Austin is a semi-fitted sleeveless dress with armhole darts and a keyhole opening at the center front. Customize the Austin with your choice of a knee length A-line or midi-length gathered skirt and add optional patch pockets to carry snacks for you (and your furry friends!). Topstitched seams and button band closures at the side seams add both function and interest.

Sew Over It Jemima Jumpsuit – up to 60” hip

The front of a pattern envelope with two persons standing side by side in the same dress. On the left is a fat person with magenta red dress with pleats to on the bodice and the skirt; the person on the right is smaller and wearing a cornflower blue jumpsuit in a similar design to the dress.

The Jemima Jumpsuit & Dress pattern features a flattering V-neck both at the front and back with wide bra-covering straps. We wanted to create a stylish jumpsuit pattern, but if you’re not a jumpsuit fan, we’ve got you covered with the dress version, featuring the same mirrored pleats in the front bodice and trousers/skirt.

Jemima looks great in a solid colour to really show off the pleats, and she makes a beautiful print shine. A drapey viscose or crepe will work for both versions, and for the jumpsuit you could also use a slightly more structured fabric like viscose linen or chambray.

#pfSewingAdjacent wrap up: Many more than usual because I couldn’t choose!

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episodes

118 Knitting #pfSewingAdjacent

Sponsor for May: The Specky Seamstress!

Laura has generously donated a £15 gift certificate with free shipping anywhere in the world!  In addition, she has provided a discount code for ALL our listeners for 15% off for all of May and June using the code: speckyfrockers

Catch up:

Jenny:

Beverly:

Two versions of the new Sew Liberated Joanie Top!  

New Patterns:

Lobethal Shirt by Muna & Broad

Our Lobethal Shirt is a dramatically oversized statement piece with an architectural vibe. It has a minimalist aesthetic with its clean finished neckline and button placket. It features our signature sleeve bands that hit at the elbow and it also has pockets! Small side slits and some subtle topstitched details elevate this easy-to-sew shirt. Make it in a crisp shirting for a dramatic silhouette or select a drapier silk for the most luxurious experience

Style Arc Tommie Skirt 61” hip – and Beverly asked for this and here it is!

Lenox Top and Dress Love Notions

Itch to Stitch Taroko Skirt

This A-line skirt sits at the natural waist and features a contour waistband, providing a flattering silhouette and comfort. What sets the Taroko Skirt apart is the addition of patch front pockets integrated with the princess seams, adding both practicality and visual interest to the garment. Whether made in a bold print or a classic solid, the Taroko Skirt is sure to become a go-to piece in any wardrobe.

Taroko Skirt Features:

  • A-line skirt with front princess seams
  • Front patch pockets integrated into the front princess seams
  • Contour waistband sitting at the natural waist
  • Fly-front zipper with button closure
  • Back waist darts for shaping
  • Back patch pockets
  • Optional belt loops
  • Designed for non-stretch, bottom-weight woven fabric

Skill Level: Intermediate

Swim Style Tamarama Set – up to 64” hip.  New to me designer

Designed for woven fabrics. The shirt style is an oversized look. Detailed finished measurements are included, which will assist if you would like to size down for a slimmer fit.

Featuring a relaxed drop shoulder seam and button down front, this shirt is on trend and can be dressed up or down. The pants are a wider fit through leg and boast an adjustable drawstring closure.

Michelle Design Company -Lexie Top (new to me company) – up to 63” hip

Lexie is a feminine and elegant one shoulder top and dress. She comes in four options: top or dress, and tank or sleeved version. Lexie has a figure hugging silhouette and the dress is less tight at the hip, which allows the fabric to be more loose around the thighs. The dress comes in a midi length with a slit at one side seam. Depending on the fabric, Lexie will take you from summer days, to date nights, to casual strolling around the house.

Sewing Adjacent:  Knitting!

Conversation with Beverly’s knitting friends at Maryland Sheep & Wool festival!  

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episodes

117 On Writing #pfSewingAdjacent

Sponsor for May: The Specky Seamstress!

Laura has generously donated a £15 gift certificate with free shipping anywhere in the world!  In addition, she has provided a discount code for ALL our listeners for 15% off for all of May and June using the code: speckyfrockers

Catch up:

Jenny:

 I also attended a pop-up event that Spoonflower held at East Fork in Asheville and had a great time chatting with all the Spoonflower reps.  Note that Spoonflower has announced the closing of their Raleigh Durham factory; moving production to AZ & SC. They’ve since turned off comments on this post for the weekend since they want to be able to monitor & address. 

Introduction & what you’ve been up to:

Avery: they/them @madrabbitsociety on Insta & YouTube @AveryMorstan

New patterns

Hadley by Grainline Studios max 61”

The Hadley is drapey, fluid, and sophisticated. It’s the semi-formal top that you need to wear to work or to throw on over your jeans for a night out. View A has a jewel neck, a pleat at the back neckline, and bracelet lengths sleeves. View B is sleeveless and features a soft v-neck. Both are subtly geometric as they have center seams in the front and back as well as a wide hem.

Techniques involved include sewing straight and curved seams, setting sleeves, darts, pleating, and applying facings.

Schultzapparel Estella dress max 61” hip

The Estella pattern is a tight fitted dress with a full skirt.

Both options has an invisible zipper at Center Back seam, and are fully lined at the bodice.

#pfSewingAdjacent:  Writing!

Book 1 of 8!  AVERY MORSTAN – AUTHOR!

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episodes

116 Our Hobbies – #pfSewingAdjacent

Sponsor for May: The Specky Seamstress!

Laura has generously donated a £15 gift certificate with free shipping anywhere in the world!  In addition, she has provided a discount code for ALL our listeners for 15% off for all of May and June using the code: speckyfrockers

Catch up:

Jenny:

SO MANY hot pads & coasters.  I’ve been in full on crafter mode!  

Beverly:

Greenstyle Adventure bag for trip

Baltimore Fabric Swap

New Patterns:

Birdy Shirt by Stokx 

Camas Coatigan – Sageville patterns – max 64” hips

The Camas Coatigan has enough ease to handle even the thickest of woven and knit fabrics. It features a dropped, easy fit sleeve that can be hemmed or cuffed, along with lots of fun pocket options, two band widths and two hem lengths. Some of our favorite fabrics in testing were thick flannel, Sherpa, super plush minky, stretch twill, and even denim! French Terry and Ponte knits were also great options that made a more flowy, lighter weight coatigan.

The Donnie Shirt by Friday Pattern Company

The Donny Shirt is a boxy pull-on top that is designed to be a workhorse in your

wardrobe. It is a dartless top with a lapel collar and patch pocket. 

True Bias Lora Dress

The Lora pattern is an empire waist dress with four views. All views have underbust gathers, a self-lined bodice, and twelve loop buttons along the center front. Views A and C have half-inch spaghetti straps at the shoulders while Views B and D have long puff sleeves. The dress is fittted through the waist and hips and has a straight fit through the skirt with Views A and B ending just above the knee and Views C and D hemmed a couple inches above the ankle.

Sewlala Mara top – up to 61” hip – new to me company

Mara is a comfortable, modern top that offers two different sleeve options. Sleeve A is a contemporary interpretation of the romantic puffed sleeve, in which the fabric is not kept in the classic way, but rather gets its volume in the shoulder through sophisticated folds. The B sleeve shows the sportier side with a boxy silhouette and emphasis on the shoulders. The cut is figure-hugging without being tight. In the upper part of the arm, a fullness is intended due to the design. The neckline at Mara is moderate and can either be sewn with a narrow cuff made of the same fabric as the top, or with a wider rib cuff for a casual look. Both sleeves and hem have the option of also to be made with a ribbed cuff or classic with a folded hem. The cuff is added to the ¾ length of the sleeve. Instructions for trimming the neck cuffs with a neck band are included in the pattern instructions. The seam allowance of 0.7 cm for the seam with the overlock or a wide zigzag stitch on the sewing machine is included in all pattern pieces.

Interview:  

Journaling

  • What is gratitude journaling?  What does that mean to you?
  • What lead to you starting this practice?
  • What supplies do you need?
  • What does it look like when you take time to gratitude journal?
  • What lights you up about this practice?
  • Would you recommend it to others?

Ice dyeing – check out Geri.in.stitches on Insta

  • How did you get into this?
  • What are the minimum supplies you need? 
  • Which substrates have you used?
  • Will this be part of your With Love Jenny project?
Categories
episodes

113 Sewing Books #pfStretchYourself

April sponsors:

Stokx patterns: 3 patent apron patterns – this is perfect for wearing when crafting, cooking, or gardening.  It reminds me of utilikilts in the best way – an modern industrial take on the half-apron.

Technical drawings of a utility apron, and a photo of a slim person with short grey hair wearing a red long sleeved top, khaki pants, grey shoes, and a navy apron.

If you would like to sponsor a prize for our show, all you have to do is be willing to send said prize anywhere in the world – easiest for those that offer pdfs, but many folks have sponsored with mailed prizes.  Just dm us in Instagram or email punkfrockers@gmail.com.  

What are we sewing?

Jenny:

Trapezoid SkirtDIY DaisyFreeman’s CreativeCanvasTypewriters
Rosebud RaglanDIY DaisyMulberry SilkLinenWIndowpane black white
Sonya RuffleDIY DaisyMulberry SilkLinenWindowpane black white
Trapezoid SkirtDIY DaisyFabrics StoreLinenRust
Two Tone SkirtDIY DaisyFabrics StoreLinenTwo colors lime green, yellow
Rosebud RaglanDIY DaisyFreeman’s CreativeCanvasTypewriters
Sonya RuffleDIY DaisyFabrics StoreLinenApple green

Beverly:

Sauvie Sundress by Sew House Seven – royal blue linen from Merchant and Mills

Sport Shorts by Friday Pattern Co.  – pay as you wish pattern, stretch woven from Greenstyle 

New patterns:

Sew House Seven Regalia blouse

A person with long hair in a messy bun holding a brown hat in front of their face.  Wearing a long sleeved top with gathered shoulders, a yoke with gathered front shirt length skirt; also wearing blue jeans.
A woman with long hair pulled back and wispy, as well as bangs.  Wearing an acid green top with a yoke, collar stand, puffly mid-arm sleeves.  Worn with jeans.

Pattern Features

Stand-up collar

Back keyhole opening with back neck ties

Front & back yokes with gathered front and back lower bodices

Length #1 – cropped hem 

Length #2 –  “tuck-in” length hem with optional waist tie

Sleeve A – gathered at shoulder and narrows at wrist

Sleeve B – gathered at shoulder and gathers at cuff

Optional tulle sleeve head pouf

Style Arc Hope Extension pack

Technical drawings of variations on a raglan dress including a button front, a cross over faux wrap bodice, and a bondice with a tie at the neck.  Sleeve varations include full sleeves with elastic at the mid-forearm, elbow length with horizontal pleats, and mid-forearm full sleeves with a cuff.
  • All sleeve options can be added to bodices A, B or C
  • Bodice A. Front split opening with neck gathers and neck binding into neck ties
  • Bodice B. “V” cross over neck
  • Bodice C. Round neck with front button opening
  • Sleeve 1. 3/4 length very full sleeves with elastic opening
  • Sleeve 2. Elbow length full sleeve with a deep cuff
  • Sleeve 3. Elbow length double tucked, draped sleeves

Tilly and the Buttons Mabel Dress and blouse

Square-shaped elasticated neckline

Full-length or elbow-length sleeves, with deep shirred cuff or narrow shirred cuff with frill hem

Voluminous raglan sleeves elasticated around the shoulders

Front neckline has a pretty frill, keyhole opening and faux drawstring ties

Blousy bodice and floaty skirt cinched in with shirred waistline

Make it as a midi-length dress or peplum blouse

A peasant style dress on a person with messy blonde hair, in hot pink, with a gathered neckline & shoulders on the sleves, and shirred waist and sleeve cuff.  Another person with long brown hair is wearing a green check version of the same garment as a top with a peplum and elbow length sleeves.
Technical drawings of the peasant style dress from the previous photo.

Cris Wood Sews Dewdrop tunic and cover up

A loose tunic with elasticized short sleeves, a boat neck, and slits in the side.  Both front and back hems are also elasticised.  This version is made in two colors - the yoke is a peach, the body is a golden tan.

Let’s talk about sewing books:  Note – books often have patterns that don’t meet our requirements, but still may contain information that’s really helpful no matter what your size is.

Vintage:

The Singer Reference Library

Reader’s Digest Craft book that everyone’s house had when I was growing up

Check out your local used book store for books in categories like Fashion, Fashion Design, and Crafts for other possibilities.

Book with a blue background called Reader's Digest Crafts & Hobbies a step-by-step guide to creative skills

Reader’s Digest complete guide to sewing

Book Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing with a light background & lots of sewing items photographed on the cover:  scissors, pincushion, bobbins, measureing tape, seam ripper, etc.

Modern:

DIY Daisy – Sew It Yourself

Jenny Rushmore – Ahead of the Curve

Sewing Machine Accessory Bible

Serger Essentials

Sandra Betzina Fabric Savvy

The Act Of Sewing – Sonya Philip

The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory

Fitting and Pattern Alteration

Baby Lock has books available to help you with creative use of machines & accessories.  These are SUPER expensive – $300 MSRP.  I found mine on eBay used for a bargain price.

If you would like to help support us making this show, please go to Patreon.com/punkfrockers to sign up for one of three tiers of support.  We appreciate our patreon subscribers SOOO much!  

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episodes

112 Brooks Ann & #pfStretchYourself

April sponsors:

Stokx patterns: 3 patent apron patterns – this is perfect for wearing when crafting, cooking, or gardening.  It reminds me of utilikilts in the best way – an modern industrial take on the half-apron.

If you would like to sponsor a prize for our show, all you have to do is be willing to send said prize anywhere in the world – easiest for those that offer pdfs, but many folks have sponsored with mailed prizes.  Just dm us in Instagram or email punkfrockers@gmail.com.  

What we’re up to:

Jenny:

HipPatternDesignerSourceTypeDescription
N/AKama Square NeckDIY DaisyFabrics StoreLinenIce dyed aqua
N/ADewdropCrisWoodSewsStone Mountain & DaughterLinen blendEssex green
N/ADewdropCrisWoodSewsStone Mountain & DaughterLinen blendEssex red
N/ADewdropCrisWoodSewsFabrics StoreLinenColor block red orange
N/ADewdropCrisWoodSewsFabrics StoreLinenColor block purple yellow
N/AKama Square NeckDiY DaisyFabrics StoreLInenColor block scrap linen

Beverly:

Isola Jumpsuit from Daughter Judy using fun fabric from Charley Harper

Underwood Tank from Sew House Seven – FAIL – not sure what happened but the pattern as I printed it had the neck and arm bands equal to the opening!  Need to retry with shorter bands.

New patterns:

French Navy has an expanded size range! Now up to a 63” hip! 

Belinda Button up

Tarifa Tee

Sew Over It Lined Frankie Jacket

Brooks Ann’s website

Brooks Ann on Love to Sew

DIY Dressform eBook

All of Brooks Ann’s courses

Brooks Ann on Instagram

Brooks Ann’s blog post about how to choose and use a thimble

Clover Needle Threader

Tulip Sewing Needles – sizes 7, 8, 9

BrooksAnn links:

BrooksAnn.com

my Prep School for Custom Sewing website:

https://learnwithbrooksann.com

my blog:

https://brooksann.com/blog/

Brooks Ann on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/brooksanncamper/

Sign up for my “Custom Sewing Love Letters” here:

My 4-part  “26th Sewiversary!” series starts here:

https://brooksann.com/my-26th-sew-iversary-pt-1-academics/

More about the difference between fashion sewing and custom sewing in this blog post “Two Myths of Learning to Make Your Own Sewing Patterns”:

https://brooksann.com/two-myths-learning-make-sewing-patterns/

The 3-part “behind the seams” series of the making of the color-blocked dress I wore to Frocktails which Jenny mentioned starts here:

https://brooksann.com/i-made-myself-the-coolest-dress-pt-1-pattern-design-mockup/

Here’s the article I wrote for Threads Magazine on thimbles. (Though it’s behind a paywall.)

The Threads article was a newer fancier version of this post from my blog “How to Choose and Use a Thimble”:

https://brooksann.com/how-to-choose-and-use-a-thimble/

Here’s the free “Condensed guide” for padding a dress form as your body double:

https://brooksann.com/padding-a-dress-form/

Here’s the link to buy the ebook:

https://learnwithbrooksann.com/figure-it-out/

If you would like to help support us making this show, please go to Patreon.com/punkfrockers to sign up for one of three tiers of support.  We appreciate our patreon subscribers SOOO much!  

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PF 109 Planning your makes

Sponsor this month: Club DIBY one pattern per week!  (Do it better yourself) There are also quite a few free patterns if you want to try the instructions etc before you commit!

Sew Explicit Eve dress pattern 63” hip

Catch up:

Jenny:

Beverly:

Creative Hinterland hack #7 – pintuck shirt dress.  Love this one!  Altered the front for pin tucks, changed the front to one piece instead of bodice/skirt, left the back the same.

Embroidery

Ogden Cami -(59.5”) scrap fabric that I came across – wide fabric can make this cami out of one yard in my size but may have to make lining (facing) from different fabric.  This time I made the facing smaller.

New Patterns:

French Poetry Pleiades 2 dress – up to 64’ hip (separate size band, not up graded from small)

Elbe Textiles – Davis Crossbody vest

Peppermint Magazine Samford Set ($5-$20) Up to 60” hip

Made in collaboration with Sew to Grow’s sensational Lindsey Rae, the Peppermint Samford Set is the ultimate in day pyjamas – a loosely cropped, camp-collared shirt that brings the perfect amount of slouch, and a pair of wide-leg pants with front pockets, back pockets and an elasticated waistband with a cute drawstring. 

Uncut Marselis Dress & top max 63” chest

The body of the top and dress nearly forms a full circle, resulting in a loose and flowy fit. All versions cut just above the bust and you have the option of sleeveless halter-style ties, short drop-shoulder sleeves or long sleeves with elasticated wrists. The dress version cuts just above the knees and the top cuts at the hip.

Croquis: pro/con, methods

My body model, now owned by Cashmerette ; their Insta feed has lots of options. 

Create your own custom croquis Sew Daily

Free croquis in different sizes Fancy Tiger Craft

Creating a croquis using Procreate YouTube What Vicki Made

I also bought some varied size croquis from artists on Etsy. 

Skip the body & just use the line art from the pattern to plan. 

Journals: pro/con, methods

Curvy sketchbook by Cashmerette

Build your own journal sheets with a croquis in Doc or Word

Logging: pro/con, methods

Jenny’s log in Google

Want to sponsor?  DM

Reminder to rate & review

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episodes

108 free patterns #pfLegCages

Sponsor this month: Club DIBY one pattern per week!  (Do it better yourself) There are also quite a few free patterns if you want to try the instructions etc before you commit!

Sew Explicit Eve dress pattern 63” hip

Catch up:

Jenny:

Beverly:

Roscoe Blouse from True Bias (larger sizes) (59.5”)

Mood fabric – weird print but I like it.  Added a button placket and used 30 degree angle for bias tape 

True Bias Dani Pants (larger)

Black textured cotton from Core Fabrics

Jenny was right, didn’t need the zipper.  Will make faux fly next time.

New Patterns:

Style Arc Spencer Woven Pant – up to 70” hip 

Line drawings of high waisted pants with pleat fronts and deep hems at the ankles.

Itch to Stitch Coimbra Wrap Top – up to 62” hip, meant for knit fabric

Line drawings of a wrap front top with long sleeves, long best tying in a bow at the right side of the waist. Versions pictured with and without collar.
Wrap top pictured on a woman with long brown hair. Top is grey with pink and orange small flowers; long sleeved with collar.

#SewFrugal2023 – all month long

Free patterns! 

Our episode from last year: #69 Free Patterns – warning: only up to our previous 55” standard, MOST of them do not meet new standard.

Elastic waist dress, sleeveless, with a tulip skirt in blue on a brown woman wearing brown boots & a statement necklace. Dress has a boatneck & is blue.

Tulip Dress – made to measure tutorial – Jenny shipped this up in less than 2 hours. 

Orange colored simple maxi caftan with belt & statement necklace displayed on a headless mannequin standing on a lush green lawn.

Simple caftan – made to measure tutorial 

Brightly flowered loose fitting dress with dramatic sleeves worn by a woman holding a plant in a basket, also wearing black chunky sandals, and sitting on a stool.

DIY Daisy Maya Dress or Top – jennys made this one before

Very loose fitting boxy top worn by a brown woman with long black center parted hair. Top is purple with narrow woven stripes in different colors. It is paired with a straight skirt in white with thin stripes in repeats.

NEW CrisWoodSews Start Here Top

Free Jumpsuits from the Rational Dress society – ungendered, but NOT unisex

Sizing information with body/fit type choices – up to 62” hip

Photos of a group of diverse people wearing denim jumpsuits. People are of different sizes, colors, gender presentations, and shapes. Standing and kneeling.

Closet Core T-shirt pattern – up to 63” chest

With a slightly boxy silhouette, it comes in two lengths with two sleeve options

A person with long hair wearing a white and black horizontally striped 3/4 sleeve tee shirt.

Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studios – up to 61” hip

Line drawings of a tee shirt with different sleeve lengths; scoop neckline.

The Artists Wrap skirt from Artist Made Patterns – up to 66” hip

View A is a knee length skirt with curved seams and less gathers in the waist. View B is a midi length skirt with straight seams and more gathers in the waist. Both views feature pockets! The pattern also comes with digital stencils that are inspired by the work of Carmen Herrera and instructions for how to create your own hand painted version of the skirt.

A0 or A4/letter size

A person with long hair wearing a cream top paired with a gathered navy skirt with stenciled shapes in darker blue on it. They are standing in the corner of a room wearing brown clogs and surrounded by plants on either sdie.

Peg Leg Leggings from Patterns for Pirates – up to 64” hip

Line drawings of leggings from shorts, to bike length, to capris, to handle length.
Photo of a person wearing a black dress with shoulder cut outs. The dress is raised to show the skin tone bike shorts being worn underneath.

We mentioned this one last year, but it’s great so I will repeat: Sew House Seven Elemental skirt up to 65” hip

Photo of a person wearing a matching sweater and skirt set in burgundy. The sweater is boxy and long sleeved and cropped to the waist. The skirt is mid-calf and straight cut.

Peppermint Magazine Bowen Dress – up to 61” hip.  New patterns from Peppermint are on a pay what you can (minimum $5) but it appears old ones are still free.  

A photo of a brown person wearing a loose fitting dress with dropped and gathered sleeves. The dress is random shapes & sizes of colorful spotches on a white background.

Sam Apron from Helen’s closet– up to 62” hip

Person wearing a burgundy apron with cream colored ties at the waist and neck. They are smiling and wearing a blue shirt with white polka dots.

Mood Fabrics has many free patterns and most go up to ~63” hip.  There are sometimes drafting problems especially for larger sizes so we don’t often recommend them unless we have tested.  However, it was the only source of free Menswear patterns in this size range that I could find aside from a few T-shirt patterns.  Here is a link to Menswear/unisex. All Gender Patterns

Here are the Woodsia shorts, which Jim would LOVE.  

Photo of two people wearing different versions of cargo shorts while standing on stairs and speaking to each other.

Want to sponsor?  DM

Reminder to rate & review

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episodes

105 Risk Taking #pfHotStuff

105 Outside Your Comfort Zone in sewing #pfHotStuff 

21 Feb 2023

Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best.  I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!

Catch up:

Jenny:

Tauko magazine has accepted one of my designs for Issue #9 – coming out toward the end of 2023.  I’m overwhelmed because I didn’t imagine this would happen – and also because there’s so much to do now.  I’ve got the base pattern drafted, and mostly graded.  Next up is WRITING INSTRUCTIONS, including instructions for something I’m only able to do successfully by watching a video, lol.  So there’s that – but the nice folks at Tauko assure me that they’ll be there to help make the instructions stronger, add illustrations, etc.  

Big thanks to everyone who encouraged me to try – especially Beverly.

I’m also nearly done with my first Blanca Flight Suit from Close Core Patterns.  This is almost entirely due to Sara from Fabric_Scraps reaching out to ask if I wanted an accountability partner for this make – since she also needed one.  We both sat down at 9 am one Saturday and worked together, sending photos back and forth, along with words of encouragement & advice.  I have just the collar & sleeves to complete – but I got nervous and sewed up the body side seams and crotch seams early just to confirm that it’ll fit before finishing the other bits up.  And it does!  There’s the typical “how fitted can I make the bodice and still pull this on-and-off” problem.  This is more complicated with my CGM.  LOL!

Beverly: Been making workout shorts – pretty boring.  Just Hudson pants shortened and without the pockets.  I want to make some Friday Pattern Co Sport Shorts too (up to 63” hip).  And possibly the Greenstyle Balboa Shorts (up to 62” hip). 

Second version of Nepheline Blouse by Vivian Shao Chen

 (Up to 62” hip)

New Patterns

Daughter Judy 

Isola Jumpsuit

Jenny: Dammit.  I’m definitely buying/making this one.  OMG.  A zipper & straps.  I will say my local Joann doesn’t carry zippers long enough in store for someone my size to buy for projects like this – I have to order each time (Wawak!).

Up to 67” hip

FROM $14

PATTERN NO. 602

The Isola is a modern take on the overall. Slim cut through the body with a darted bodice for added shaping. 

Great for layering or worn on its own.

woman wearing plaid jumpsuit
Line drawing of jumpsuit

Itch to stitch: Nusle Joggers – Up to 62” hip

Whether you want to stay in or work out, do it in style with these cozy and comfy Nusle Joggers! With one pattern, you get three different looks—1) The long version has split side hems and falls straight down from the knees; 2) the slim-fit, ankle length version has taper legs and is finished with cuffs; and 3) the capri version ends at high calves and is finished with cuffs. Designed for four-way stretch knit fabric, the Nusle sits at the natural waist and has an elastic waistband.

Nusle Joggers Features:

  • Elastic waistband with drawstring
  • Mid-rise that sits at the natural waist
  • Three options:
    • Long Split Hem
    • Ankle Cuff
    • Capri Cuff
  • Slanted front pockets
  • Designed for medium 4-way stretch knit fabric with good recovery
Image of woman wearing jogger pants

Sew Liberated Cosecha Pants

Jenny: I’m intrigued.  Something’s very wrong with the world when I’m thinking “dang, those PANTS are cute.”

Image of two women wearing pants and sweaters
Line drawings of pants patterns

Whst does risk taking in sewing look like? How do you tackle something outside your comfort zone? 

My comfort zone for sewing lies firmly in the “loose dress with gathers” space.  Stepping outside of that has always been painful.  How do we get into ruts in sewing, and how do we get back out again? 

  1. Sew with a friend who will encourage you to push yourself
  2. Share your plan publicly – instagram can give you a forum for saying you’ll do something and being held to account to … actually do it.
  3. Look at the skills you feel uncomfortable about, and make a plan to improve them.  My hatred of buttons is at least in part based on how difficult it is for me to feel like my buttonhole placement, my buttonhole stitches, are good enough.  Making many pairs of overalls has fixed the buttonhole stitches problem. 
  4. Make a list, and check things off as you are able.  It’s low pressure, but involves all the fun of checking things off a list.  You can use the Notes function in your phone for this most likely, but there are also so many different really cute note pads you can employ for this.  I’m a digital list person for sewing, and weirdly a physical list person for work. 
  5. Randomly select a pattern that’s out of your comfort zone every (week, month, quarter, vacation, etc) and commit to making it happen.  You’ll learn a lot by what you feel when you pick the random pattern (random number generator, put them in a box and pull randomly, make someone else pick one for you, etc).

I’m working on really understanding pants so I can …. Design my own overalls.  Ulp. I think this means I have to keep making pants.  I wonder if I will?

Resources:

How do to something new. Wikihow.

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Categories
episodes

104 Capsule Wardrobe #pfHotStuff 

Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best.  I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!

Catch up:

Jenny:

I’ve made two different color-blocked York Pinafores.  These are the Helen’s Closet pattern that I make in a smaller size than would be correct for my body measurements per the size chart.  With both, I made one half of the front in a contrast fabric. It’s been a great way to use up some fabric that I have large scraps of, but not enough to make a York (even though this is a very good pattern for using up a smaller length of fabric for me).  I’m also enamored of the marsupial pouch pocket these days. 

Beverly: I finished knitting a sweater that I started a few years ago. At the beginning of football season, I had just the sleeves to go.  I finished the night of the first playoff game.  For those interested, it is called “Breathing Space” by Veera Valimaki.  It is a lovely pattern, very well written and probably easily finished in less than three years by others.  

New Patterns Tauko Tuesday!

I’ve already printed Parabolic, Jordan, Marsupial, and Over-It.

Capsule wardrobe: 

Beverly: I am going on a very big vacation this May and I want to make a new capsule wardrobe for it.  AND, I’m going to NYC next weekend so I can shop for fabric!!!

Jenny:

This is so different than how I think about my wardrobe, and my clothing in general, that I hardly know how to think about it.  Most of my garments are dresses withs sleeves, so I rarely wear two me-made things at the same time.  With my new exploration of pinafores, overalls, etc – there’s some possibility here.  I think my first step would be finding top patterns I’d like to use in multiple ways (shirts, wraps, jackets) that would coordinate with, over, under, overalls & pinafores.

But in the end, Beverly is gonna do the heavy lifting on this one.

Resources:

7 steps to a capsule wardrobe

Jess – fat.bobbin.girl

Broad In The Seams (also Jess) wardrobe planning 

Sew Liberated Mindful wardrobe planning 

TomKat Stitchery You Tube series: The great module sew along – one topper, 2 bottoms and 3 tops

My ideas for what i need: May is warm but not hot in Portugal.  I think that means we need to be prepared for chilly too.  Not sure.  I want to make shorts, tops and a couple of dresses.  

Shorts:  True Bias Dani Shorts and Pants smaller band, larger band (up to 62”) – although they sell the two bands separately with different sites for each size band, I do want to commend True Bias on the ease of finding size chart. For each pattern there is a “measurements” tab that drops open to show body measurements, final garment measurements and fabric requirements.  So helpful!

I love these shorts.  I own this pattern but have not made it.  I have some textured cotton from Core Fabrics that would be awesome for these.  

I also really love the Closet Core Pietra shorts (up to 63” hip) and the Sew House Seven Free Range slacks (up to 66” hip).

Tops: 

Elisabeth Suzann Georgia Tee 62” hip

Helen’s Closet Reynolds Top. 62” hip

Dress: 

Sauvie Sundress by Sew House 7 65.5”

Caramiya Yesterday Dress. 62” hip

Marseille Dress – Hey June Handmade – up to 63” hip Love this one!

Also want a hands and shoulder free option for a bag! Greenstyle Adventure Bag

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