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139:  Getting to know your sewing buddies

139:  Getting to know your sewing buddies

Date: 17 October 

No sponsor – just PF.  However, if you’d like a pack of PF labels, and you’ve shared a make and tagged us recently, please send us a DM with your address!  No cost – available internationally while supplies last.

What have we been up to?

Jenny:

Sundresses. I made one from my indigo dye bath experience & love it. 

Painting on fabric: Shiva stiks which were recommended to me by CaramiyaMau on Instagram.

Beverly:

Range Backpack from Noodlehead

New patterns:

Avid seamstress Wimbourne cocooon coat. 61.6” hip. 

Muna & briad pyrmount skirt. 41.5-71.5” hip

Itch to Stitch Islares Top

Two updated patterns from Sew Over it: The Lana Skirt and Ella Blouse. Sew Over It has a fantastic commitment to going back to all their older patterns to update sizing.  

News from Deer and Doe:

One of the designers/founders (Camille) became ill in March and although she’s getting better, they decided not to release any more new patterns this year.  However, by doing that they are going to be able to take time to re-release the Myosotis dress in their complete size range.  We will talk more about the pattern when it happens, but it’s such a sewing community favorite that I am glad they are taking it on and also that they are prioritizing their health and well being.

Can we talk about the Zadie dress update? It’s not size inclusive.

This week’s topic:

Getting to know your sewing buddies.

About 13 years ago, Whipstitch did a few rounds of pairing up sewing folks as sewing buddies – and part of that involved a questionnaire about your sewing experiences.  I thought we’d use that to learn more about your favorite sewing podcast hosts – and suggest you do the same with folks you’d like to sew with regularly.

Accounts to follow:

  • Somebody_or_others_mom
  • SheilaOKelly
  • TheNeedleAndTheBelle
  • Fabric_Scraps

Tips (from, and others):

  • Want a sewing buddy?  Reach out to someone online or in person that feels compatible to you, with your style of sewing, and start a conversation.

What does it mean for us?

Questions:

Sewing Experience 

1. What is the first sewing memory you have?  Do you think that memory was a prediction of your future sewing success? 

2. What would you say is your “sewing personality”?  Are you a perfectionist or a procrastinator or a planner or something else?  How does that affect the way you create?  How does it affect the space you do your sewing in? 

3. What is the best thing you ever, ever sewed?  Who was the first person you showed it to?  Would you ever sell it, and if so, how much would you ask? 

4. If time and money and talent were no object, what ONE sewing project would you choose to complete?  Who would you give it to when it was done? 

5. What one sewing skill do you really, truly wish you possessed?  What skill do you think is over-rated and probably not worth learning? 

6. What is the most inspiring sewing project you’ve ever seen (in person or virtually)? 

Joaverystitch 100 days of organic applique


Can we get to know you?  Share your answers to a favorite question and tag us – we’ll pick some to share with our followers!

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138:  Sustainable practices in sewing

138:  Sustainable practices in sewing

Date: 10 October

No sponsor – just PF.  However, if you’d like a pack of PF labels, and you’ve shared a make and tagged us recently, please send us a DM with your address!  No cost – available internationally while supplies last.

What have we been up to?

Jenny:

Mostly just more sundresses. I have ideas on how to change them up more but am stalled because I love DIY Daisy’s design so much!! 

And I went to a play and saw someone rocking the Tate Romper in the wild!! 

Beverly: 

Skirt Skills skirt! Learned so much you got an A+

New patterns:

Grainline studio Myra (0-18) (14-32) (Max 61” hip)

Sew Over It Viola – Vintage inspired

Grafton knit dress by Cashmerette. 400 combos, 62” max hip. 

Eddy Pants from greenstyle.com

Not a new pattern, but Style Arc has announced that every Sunday they will put one of their patterns on sale for 30% off just for that day.  If you like SA patterns, it’s worth subscribing to their emails to get the notifications. – Love notions does a similar thing on Fridays (specific pattern $5)

This week’s topic:

SUSTAINABILITY.

Definition: 

From Investopedia

What are the 3 concepts of sustainability?

Sustainability’s three main pillars represent the environment, social responsibility, and economics. (These three pillars are also informally called people, planet, purpose, and profits.)

From Sewing Dictionary:

Sustainable sewing means sewing in a way that leaves a minimal impact on the planet. Whether that is using eco-friendly materials, reusing old textiles, making garments designed to last for a long time, or ensuring you use every scrap of fabric reducing fabric wastage. 

Accounts to follow:

  • Frugilisima
  • CrisWoodSews
  • Liz Haywood
  • Birgitta Helmerson ZW patterns

Tips (from Sewing Dictionary, Paprika Patterns, Feel Good Fibers, Seamwork, and others):

  • Read this article by Seamwork on how to add sustainability to your sewing practice.
  • Make things that fit your style
  • Mend
  • GIve away the fabrics you’ve outgrown to others who will use them
  • Use what you’ve got instead of buying more.
  • Consider if the prints you buy are stylish or classic – will they go out of style quickly? Solids never do!
  • Buy secondhand.
  • Look after your sewing tools, get your scissors sharpened and your machine serviced rather than replaced.
  • Don’t buy more than you need.


What tips can you offer to others?  Share your sustainable practcies and tag us – we’ll pick some to share with our followers!

Visit Patreon.com/punkfrockers to support our work.

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135 Sewing Pride & Joy

15 Sept 

135 Sewing Pride & Joy  #pfBetterDoneThanPerfect

Comments have been disabled on the site due to unmanageable levels of very crude spam, but if you would like to comment, please visit us on Instagram or email us at punkfrockers @ gmail dot com.  

Who’s our sponsor this month? Ha! Trick question! We don’t have one.  Going forward, challenges are just for the fun of it.  Does that mean I can win too?  It means we all win.

Catch up:

Jenny:

I’ve made a couple new DIY Daisy sundresses. I love this style & it’s helping me to feel comfy with my bra showing. I’m also finishing up two secret pieces that will get revealed this autumn. 

Beverly:

Continuing with Skirt Skills.  I’ve made my first draft of the block, sewed it up and tried it on.  That was finished on Thursday and Brooksann says not to fit on the same day as you make up the mock up (what she calls a toile/muslin).  So I didn’t.  

You wouldn’t believe the instructions I am following!  

Other examples:

Thread marking

Stitch line pinning

Hand basting waist/hemlines

New patterns:

Swim Style Patterns Viola Vest – up to 60” hip

The Viola vest features overlapped side edges which have been rotated to create a slightly

flared silhouette, with angled splits at the sides. The neckline boasts a wide V and

simple armbands. Viola Vest has been designed as a layering piece or a top on its own. Our

instructions also include an option of how to create a longer closure at the side edges for a more modest look.

Itch to Stitch Cantabria Dress

The Cantabria is a lined, sleeveless trench dress with a double-breasted front, lending a contemporary touch. It’s ideal for sunny days and can be layered with a suit jacket or cardigan, making it perfect for transitioning into cooler seasons or air-conditioned environments. Craft it with breathable linen for a touch of casualness, or choose a suiting fabric for a more polished and office-appropriate ensemble.

Cantabria Dress Features:

  • Options for cup sizes
  • Notched collar
  • Sleeveless finished with faced armholes
  • Fully lined
  • Front and back princess seams with a back yoke
  • Semi-fitted with a knee length straight skirt
  • Double-breasted surplice front with buttoned closure
  • Belt loops with a detachable sash
  • Designed for non-stretch woven fabric

Sew Over It Cassie Dress

The Cassie Dress is one for the cottagecore lovers out there. If you’re after a really pretty make, look no further than Cassie with her fully shirred bodice, bound neckline, gathered tier skirt and gently puffed sleeves.

Choose between two sleeve lengths: just above the elbow, or full length with an elasticated wrist. Cassie is a midi length dress, but you could also omit the extra hem tier to make her knee-length. Additional elastic is sewn in at the waist, to ensure the dress maintains its shape.

With no closures and the shirring in the bodice, you get the versatility of a woven fabric, with the comfort of a knit! 

They also offer a class for this to learn how to make it. The class is just under $30 USD, and includes the pattern, which is about $17 alone.

Topic:  What are you most proud of in your sewing journey? What makes you feel good about your sewing?  Is it a skill, a garment, or something else?  Let’s toot our own horns here!

Jenny:

My wedding dress. I’m really proud that I made my own wedding dress years and years ago.  I’d made several for others, but never really considered making my own since it might mean drafting patterns I didn’t have any context for in my size.  Ultimately, I made a drop-waisted dress with a boat-neck, gathered skirt, and simple straight ¾ length sleeves in a black and grey brocade.  I finished hand-hemming it an hour or so before our wedding.  My mother was appalled – her daughter married in a not-white dress.  I made my bridesmaids dresses, too – simple cotton dresses in a floral print picked by my sister, with a loose-fitting bodice, grown-on sleeves, and a gathered skirt.

My father’s kilt.  We traveled to Scotland to buy the fabric, and I stitched the entire thing by hand, sitting on the couch watching re-runs with my dad.  He wore it with pride the rest of his life.

A series of quilts from my father’s neckties.  I had a quilting group and we sat at tables and on the floor together pouring over his ties, to design & stitch up a set of three quilts in quick succession:  one of my dad’s hospital room, and one each for my brother and sister.  I’ve never had a group of sewing friends quite like the women who came together for me during one of the hardest times in my life as we waited for my dad to die.

The Moana costumes I made for myself, my husband, and my granddaughter.  She loved to dress up, and this was her favorite movie.  It reminded my of my tutu Marian, and I was so excited to create these.   I stamped fabric, and tea-dyed laces, and so forth.  We did buy a few thing (like the rooster hat my husband is wearing, and the beanie babie on my staff).  But she had so much fun, and loved how many people wanted to take pictures with her.  

Beverly:

Self-drafted Obrigada dress

Jim’s Cornell

First pair of jeans

Mom’s robe

Early make – kind of tricky pair of shorts

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Ep 134 Sewing Failures

8 Sept

134 Sewing Failures  #pfBetterDoneThanPerfect

Comments have been disabled on the site due to unmanageable levels of very crude spam, but if you would like to comment, please visit us on Instagram or email us at punkfrockers @ gmail dot com.  

Who’s our sponsor this month? Ha! Trick question! We don’t have one.  Going forward, challenges are just for the fun of it.  Does that mean I can win too?  It means we all win.

Catch up:

Jenny:

We’ve continued swimming every other night or so which means I’m starting to consider sewing swimwear again. Any one listening have great recommendations for fabric & 60” + hip patterns? Two piece preferred. 

Beverly: Jim is home from guitar camp!!! Yay! We missed him way too much!  

Somehow screwed up the July bonus for Patreons – so sorry about that.  It has been fixed. 

I am working on my Skirt Skills class with Brooks Ann Camper.  She has a really interesting way of making a block, using NO STANDARD measurements.  So far we have determined our hip level, and our waist level.  By definition, the hip level is parallel with the floor, but this is NOT true for the waist.  Many folks of all different body sizes have angled waistlines, but standard clothing and patterns assumes a parallel waistline because when you make clothing for many or even patterns for many, you have to make a choice and you aren’t likely to make the “non standard” choice. 

We also measured out where anchoring darts and where curved side seams were necessary to make the block fit our bodies.  

In my previous online classes, we made blocks to our measurements but not to our BODIES.  For example, one instruction was to arbitrarily make a straight waistband, and to divide the difference between my hips and waist and then divide that up by a standard ratio to know where and how much to put in my darts vs side seams.  

My first draft of my block looks pretty boring but that’s to be expected based on my waist:hip ratio.  

I like precision in my work, but I am embracing “Better Done than Perfect” as Brooks Ann says having a block fit perfect the first time is a disservice to ourselves because we miss the opportunity to do fitting!

New patterns:

These are not really new patterns, but at some point – maybe recently? They did nice size expansion.  I had to really search for an pattern that had not been updated, but they used to go to size 26 = 52” hip and now go to size 34 = 60” hip.  Stitch Witch patterns – check them out for all your ren faire needs!

Shown below: 

The Basque Dress

Daughter Judy Coe Trouser – up to 67” hip

The Coe is a high waisted trouser with a side seam that wraps to the front giving it a slightly curved leg shape. On-seam pockets at the front and patch pockets at the back with optional self belt. The inseam finishes below the ankle giving you a relaxed look.

Topic: 

Sewing Failures.  We’ve all had them – let’s talk about some of our worst fails.

Jenny: 

My #pfProm dress!  I made this from a free mood pattern in a slinky taffeta and everything went wrong.  It was strapless, but the cups weren’t even close to fitting my body.  It was short, and puffy, and all around amazingly awful.  The drafting was bad, but I also didn’t toile (I should have).  I waited to the last minute and boy, was it not great.

All my undies.  I made them with fabric that was too heavy, and ended up not really loving any of them.  For one pair I cut up a tee shirt that was important to me – and came to regret it.  Now I buy my underwear on sale twice a year, and accept that I’m not meant to make my own.

My Noice Jeans – sort of.  The fit was amazing, I spent a long time crafting these only to stumble at the last minute.  I put the button hole on the wrong side of the waist band – and finished it, and cut it open, before noticing.  I keep thinking I need to send these to someone else to repair so I can really wear them.  I did a junky job at the end trying to make them work.  I’m really bummed by these.

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131 Sewing On Vacation #pfMending

131 Vacay sewing & shopping #pfMending

Sponsor for August: Punk Frockers Swag!

Catch up:

Jenny:

I’ve cut out five dresses & a jumpsuit. Not much sewing though…

Beverly: 

Jim’s birthday button-up shirt

My matching dress 

New patterns:

Helen’s Closet Lawrence top and dress

Staystitch Malibu Shirt

Love Notions Tinley Shorts, skirt, and skort

Mood patterns – Veronica  Blouse if (Free)

Vacation sewing /shopping

Jenny:

London: Liberty of London

Edinburgh: custom woven tartans

Istanbul – the bazaar

NYC:

Atlanta: actually got a serger here once! On a business trip! 

On long business trips, I sometimes bring a sewing machine, iron, felt pad. I cut out stuff before leaving home, and use my evenings to sew instead of watching tv. 

Beverly :

NYC: Mood, J and B fabrics, Gray Lines Linen

Day to Day Textiles – $25 6 yard genuine wax ankara – bought a really nice navy cotton twill with “bubbles” on it.  

Moon Tex – same fabric for $40 hahaha – but several nice fabrics

Pacific Trimming

M & J Trimming

Hand sewing project – don’t forget instructions!

Porto, Portugal:  Mundo Dos Tecidos (World of Fabric)

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130 Sewing Likes & Dislikes

130 likes & Dislikes #pfMending

Sponsor for August: Punk Frockers Swag!

Catch up:

Jenny:

Beverly: 

Style Arc Teddy Designer top – #pfSewPrecious.  Handwoven fabric from Loom and Stars that Jenny gave me over a year ago.  I made the top without the collar and the facing stitched down and I love it.  Also interfaced the hem facing and it is perfect!

Caramiya Dragonfruit dress as a top – lightweight cotton lawn

New patterns:

Nosara Shirt from Itch to Stitch

The Evergreen Top and Dress from Lesper Lines

True Bias Aster Top and Dress

Likes & Dislikes

Jenny:

Likes: 

  • changing needles
  • cutting fabric out
  • French seams
  • Freshly laundered fabric
  • Rotary cutters
  • Bias tape

Dislikes:

  • Changing rotary cutter blades
  • Cutting fabric with scissors
  • Taping patterns together
  • Buttons & buttonholes
  • Fitting

Do you know that I basically never fit patterns to my body specifically ? I’ll shorten a waist, or raise a waist, but don’t do FBAs or full biceps, or shoulders, and whatnot. 

Beverly :

Likes: 

  • Sleeve and popover plackets
  • Altering patterns using my fancy rulers – I enjoy FBAs, altered necklines with facings, moving darts around, moving shoulder seams forward/back, converting from sleeves to sleeveless, etc.
  • Making slash and jeans pockets
  • Making button-up shirts
  • A clean work area
  • Making pretty insides to garments
  • When I can “mend” or alter a garment to make it something I want to wear.
  • Buttonholes on my Babylock
  • Wearing rayon/viscose/tencel garments

Dislikes

  • Cutting out fabric
  • Filling the bobbin mid project
  • Cleaning my serger (except the big cleans when I take it all apart and change knives)
  • Buttonholes on my Pfaff
  • Sewing 100% rayon/viscose/tencel.
  • Wearing button-up shirts

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129 Favorite fashion inspiration #pfMending

Sponsor for August: Punk Frockers Swag!

Catch up:

Jenny:

Beverly: 

Sawtell dress by In the Folds

New patterns:

By Hand London Draft it Yourself – Lucy Dress

The Emily Top – Sew over it

The Keira Shorts – Sew Over It

Favorite fashion inspo

Jenny:

Aaronica – TheNeedleAndTheBelle

The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel

CaramiyaMaui

Sara – Fabric-scraps

Mood Fabrics draping & illustration videos

GlitterAndLazerz

MsGigggles

Beverly :

Montanastrange

https://www.instagram.com/sewliberated/

#waistbiggerthanhip

#sewdresses

#sewtops

#sewpants

#esmadebyme

Pinterest  – search by item and when you find something you like and click on it, there’s a bunch more like it below.  I have a sewing board, a “my style” board, and boards for specific garments.

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126 Self-drafted patterns #pfSewPrecious

126 Drafting #pfSewPrecious 

July sponsor: Made By Rae, $50 gift card!!!

Catch Up: 

Jenny: I made a UGH NOT SIZED up YET! And I have three more ready to go. It’s on the list to be sized up so hopefully soooon. 

Beverly:

Started a Style Arc Teddy Designer top in purple Brussels Washer linen and then had hand surgery! Healing up well so hopefully sewing today!

New patterns:

Olivia Button up – sycamore road patterns – up to 68” hip

I wanted to create the perfectly oversized button up shirt for women. This is the kind of shirt you can wear to the beach over a bikini, to work with a pair of jeans, and to a party with matching trousers and some great accessories. There are two sleeve options. The first option is a pleated sleeve, the other option is a gathered sleeve for some added drama. The Olivia features a camp style collar, side slits, and a box pleat at the back yoke. You can size up or down depending on the desired amount of oversized.

Erbaccia studios Festuca dress. 64” hip max

Festuca is a true wrap dress that can also be cut at a top length. Tie closure makes for an easy adjustable fit, and a deep back pleat adds generous ease and movement to an otherwise straight silhouette. Festuca can be sewn in knit or woven fabrics, sleeveless or with a long bell sleeve, as well as with or without a collar.

Patterns 4 Pirates Breezy Overalls up to 62” max hip

The Breezy Overalls are the perfect woven sewist  overalls.  The loose, relaxed fit and adjustable straps mean you spend less time fitting and altering and more time wearing! The loose fit is super comfortable and allows for layering over anything from a swimsuit to a chunky sweater. You can take these overalls from summer to winter with length options and fabric choice. The super loose fit is ultra comfy, but if you’re not a fan of super loose you can opt for the drawstring option and cinch it around the waist area for a cute blousy fit.

George & Ginger Nebular Romper, max 66” hip

The Nebular Romper is a classic and comfy design with a twisted back detail and sexy side slit in the skirt–featuring attached shorts for maximum support, booty coverage and overall comfort on the go!  Side seam pockets are also included for added convenience. 

We’ve both taken up some self drafted designs – what does that look like for us? Why?

Jenny: 

  • Simple designs feel easier to just “do” instead of digging out a pattern
  • Remembering the power associated with taking a vision & make it real
  • Frustration at lack of options 
  • Residual annoyance as designers extend sizing
  • Just can’t find what I want
  • Unique 

Beverly:

  • Self expression
  • Simple patterns are often over $15 and that seems excessive, especially if I pay to have it printed too.
  • Challenge to myself

Some resources:

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125 aspirations #pfSewPrecious 

125 aspirations #pfSewPrecious 

July sponsor: Made By Rae, $50 gift card!!!

Catch Up: 

Jenny: i finished moving & have set up my sewing space(s). 🙂

I also made a test sew. 

Beverly:

Finished Obrigada dress

Caramiya Maui Dragonfruit dress

New patterns:

The Sofia Dress by Sew Over It – up to 60” hip

The Sofia Dress is a gorgeous strappy dress with a lower back cut-out and the choice of buttons or a bow for the back closure.

The bodice is lined and gathered at the centre front to create a gentle sweetheart shape over a wide waistband. Version one closes with a beautiful bow at the back (fully bra-friendly when tied the right way). Version two closes with buttons at the centre back and includes two different options to create a higher or lower back cut-out.

Sunrise skort max 63” hip

Knowme 2027 romper by keechii b style, max 62” hip

The short romper and floor length jumpsuit with very wide leg opening both feature large collars, three front buttons, loose fit sleeves, optional fabric covered belt, side pockets and interesting contrasting fabric detail. A Know Me by Mimi G. sewing pattern.

Let’s talk aspirations. What seeing growth are you excited about? Why? What does successfully achieving your goal look like? 

Jenny: 

Beverly:

  • Wedding dress 
  • Pants fitting

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119 #pfSewingAdjacent wrapup

Clue for next month: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF30GpW__vo

Sponsor for May: The Specky Seamstress!

Logo for the Specky Seamstree is a green circle with a blue circle containing a white sewing machine, and an illustration of a white face with red glasses and long blonde hair.

Laura has generously donated a £15 gift certificate with free shipping anywhere in the world!  In addition, she has provided a discount code for ALL our listeners for 15% off for all of May and June using the code: speckyfrockers

Catch up:

Jenny:

Plus sewing for website. Also: prepping to sell the house!  And failed knitting project.

Beverly:  Portugal trip!  Lisbon, Porto, Carvoiero (near Faro) Brought a sewing project to hand sew – the Matchy Matchy collage gather top.  I cut some Lady McElroy two sided double gauze, blue/black gingham small/med check.  Problem – didn’t bring instructions so I did it wrong.  With french seams.  Entirely by hand.  Doh!

Also brought a sewing adjacent project – a knitting project, a hat!  I successfully completed this using yarn I bought at Maryland Sheep and Wool.  For those interested, the pattern is free, called the February Hat by Kate Gagnon Osborn– can get it on Ravelry – 1 skein worsted. I used beautiful MCS from Fiber Optic Yarns in the the Bermuda Triangle colorway.  Uses provisional cast-on for wonderfully squishy doubled brim.

New Patterns:

Green style patterns Sly tank – up to 62” hip

A brown smiling person with long hair is standing in the woods wearing a white and grey snow leopard print tank top.
Line illustrations of tank tops in different lengths from crop to below knee length.

Green style patterns Sundown Skirt. Up to 62” hip

A white person with long dark blonde hair and a hat, is standing on the beach near some trees wearing a white tank top and a blue and black check skirt with a shirt tail hem.

Grainline Studios Austin Dress – up to 61” hip

Two versions of a dress side by side, one pink and one teal with black dots of various sizes.

Austin is a semi-fitted sleeveless dress with armhole darts and a keyhole opening at the center front. Customize the Austin with your choice of a knee length A-line or midi-length gathered skirt and add optional patch pockets to carry snacks for you (and your furry friends!). Topstitched seams and button band closures at the side seams add both function and interest.

Sew Over It Jemima Jumpsuit – up to 60” hip

The front of a pattern envelope with two persons standing side by side in the same dress. On the left is a fat person with magenta red dress with pleats to on the bodice and the skirt; the person on the right is smaller and wearing a cornflower blue jumpsuit in a similar design to the dress.

The Jemima Jumpsuit & Dress pattern features a flattering V-neck both at the front and back with wide bra-covering straps. We wanted to create a stylish jumpsuit pattern, but if you’re not a jumpsuit fan, we’ve got you covered with the dress version, featuring the same mirrored pleats in the front bodice and trousers/skirt.

Jemima looks great in a solid colour to really show off the pleats, and she makes a beautiful print shine. A drapey viscose or crepe will work for both versions, and for the jumpsuit you could also use a slightly more structured fabric like viscose linen or chambray.

#pfSewingAdjacent wrap up: Many more than usual because I couldn’t choose!