Sponsor for May: The Specky Seamstress!

Laura has generously donated a £15 gift certificate with free shipping anywhere in the world!  In addition, she has provided a discount code for ALL our listeners for 15% off for all of May and June using the code: speckyfrockers

Catch up:

Jenny:

SO MANY hot pads & coasters.  I’ve been in full on crafter mode!  

Beverly:

Greenstyle Adventure bag for trip

Baltimore Fabric Swap

New Patterns:

Birdy Shirt by Stokx 

Camas Coatigan – Sageville patterns – max 64” hips

The Camas Coatigan has enough ease to handle even the thickest of woven and knit fabrics. It features a dropped, easy fit sleeve that can be hemmed or cuffed, along with lots of fun pocket options, two band widths and two hem lengths. Some of our favorite fabrics in testing were thick flannel, Sherpa, super plush minky, stretch twill, and even denim! French Terry and Ponte knits were also great options that made a more flowy, lighter weight coatigan.

The Donnie Shirt by Friday Pattern Company

The Donny Shirt is a boxy pull-on top that is designed to be a workhorse in your

wardrobe. It is a dartless top with a lapel collar and patch pocket. 

True Bias Lora Dress

The Lora pattern is an empire waist dress with four views. All views have underbust gathers, a self-lined bodice, and twelve loop buttons along the center front. Views A and C have half-inch spaghetti straps at the shoulders while Views B and D have long puff sleeves. The dress is fittted through the waist and hips and has a straight fit through the skirt with Views A and B ending just above the knee and Views C and D hemmed a couple inches above the ankle.

Sewlala Mara top – up to 61” hip – new to me company

Mara is a comfortable, modern top that offers two different sleeve options. Sleeve A is a contemporary interpretation of the romantic puffed sleeve, in which the fabric is not kept in the classic way, but rather gets its volume in the shoulder through sophisticated folds. The B sleeve shows the sportier side with a boxy silhouette and emphasis on the shoulders. The cut is figure-hugging without being tight. In the upper part of the arm, a fullness is intended due to the design. The neckline at Mara is moderate and can either be sewn with a narrow cuff made of the same fabric as the top, or with a wider rib cuff for a casual look. Both sleeves and hem have the option of also to be made with a ribbed cuff or classic with a folded hem. The cuff is added to the ¾ length of the sleeve. Instructions for trimming the neck cuffs with a neck band are included in the pattern instructions. The seam allowance of 0.7 cm for the seam with the overlock or a wide zigzag stitch on the sewing machine is included in all pattern pieces.

Interview:  

Journaling

• What is gratitude journaling?  What does that mean to you?
• What lead to you starting this practice?
• What supplies do you need?
• What does it look like when you take time to gratitude journal?
• What lights you up about this practice?
• Would you recommend it to others?

Ice dyeing – check out Geri.in.stitches on Insta

• How did you get into this?
• What are the minimum supplies you need? 
• Which substrates have you used?
• Will this be part of your With Love Jenny project?

April sponsors:

Stokx patterns: 3 patent apron patterns – this is perfect for wearing when crafting, cooking, or gardening.  It reminds me of utilikilts in the best way – an modern industrial take on the half-apron.

If you would like to sponsor a prize for our show, all you have to do is be willing to send said prize anywhere in the world – easiest for those that offer pdfs, but many folks have sponsored with mailed prizes.  Just dm us in Instagram or email punkfrockers@gmail.com.  

What are we sewing?

Jenny:

Trapezoid Skirt	DIY Daisy	Freeman’s Creative	Canvas	Typewriters
Rosebud Raglan	DIY Daisy	Mulberry Silk	Linen	WIndowpane black white
Sonya Ruffle	DIY Daisy	Mulberry Silk	Linen	Windowpane black white

Trapezoid Skirt	DIY Daisy	Fabrics Store	Linen	Rust
Two Tone Skirt	DIY Daisy	Fabrics Store	Linen	Two colors lime green, yellow
Rosebud Raglan	DIY Daisy	Freeman’s Creative	Canvas	Typewriters
Sonya Ruffle	DIY Daisy	Fabrics Store	Linen	Apple green

Beverly:

Sauvie Sundress by Sew House Seven – royal blue linen from Merchant and Mills

Sport Shorts by Friday Pattern Co.  – pay as you wish pattern, stretch woven from Greenstyle 

New patterns:

Sew House Seven Regalia blouse

Pattern Features

Stand-up collar

Back keyhole opening with back neck ties

Front & back yokes with gathered front and back lower bodices

Length #1 – cropped hem 

Length #2 –  “tuck-in” length hem with optional waist tie

Sleeve A – gathered at shoulder and narrows at wrist

Sleeve B – gathered at shoulder and gathers at cuff

Optional tulle sleeve head pouf

Style Arc Hope Extension pack

• All sleeve options can be added to bodices A, B or C
• Bodice A. Front split opening with neck gathers and neck binding into neck ties
• Bodice B. “V” cross over neck
• Bodice C. Round neck with front button opening
• Sleeve 1. 3/4 length very full sleeves with elastic opening
• Sleeve 2. Elbow length full sleeve with a deep cuff
• Sleeve 3. Elbow length double tucked, draped sleeves

Tilly and the Buttons Mabel Dress and blouse

Square-shaped elasticated neckline

Full-length or elbow-length sleeves, with deep shirred cuff or narrow shirred cuff with frill hem

Voluminous raglan sleeves elasticated around the shoulders

Front neckline has a pretty frill, keyhole opening and faux drawstring ties

Blousy bodice and floaty skirt cinched in with shirred waistline

Make it as a midi-length dress or peplum blouse

Cris Wood Sews Dewdrop tunic and cover up

Let’s talk about sewing books:  Note – books often have patterns that don’t meet our requirements, but still may contain information that’s really helpful no matter what your size is.

Vintage:

The Singer Reference Library

Reader’s Digest Craft book that everyone’s house had when I was growing up

Check out your local used book store for books in categories like Fashion, Fashion Design, and Crafts for other possibilities.

Reader’s Digest complete guide to sewing

Modern:

DIY Daisy – Sew It Yourself

Jenny Rushmore – Ahead of the Curve

Sewing Machine Accessory Bible

Serger Essentials

Sandra Betzina Fabric Savvy

The Act Of Sewing – Sonya Philip

The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory

Fitting and Pattern Alteration

Baby Lock has books available to help you with creative use of machines & accessories.  These are SUPER expensive – $300 MSRP.  I found mine on eBay used for a bargain price.

If you would like to help support us making this show, please go to Patreon.com/punkfrockers to sign up for one of three tiers of support.  We appreciate our patreon subscribers SOOO much!  

April sponsors:

Stokx patterns: 3 patent apron patterns – this is perfect for wearing when crafting, cooking, or gardening.  It reminds me of utilikilts in the best way – an modern industrial take on the half-apron.

If you would like to sponsor a prize for our show, all you have to do is be willing to send said prize anywhere in the world – easiest for those that offer pdfs, but many folks have sponsored with mailed prizes.  Just dm us in Instagram or email punkfrockers@gmail.com.  

What we’re up to:

Jenny:

Hip	Pattern	Designer	Source	Type	Description
N/A	Kama Square Neck	DIY Daisy	Fabrics Store	Linen	Ice dyed aqua
N/A	Dewdrop	CrisWoodSews	Stone Mountain & Daughter	Linen blend	Essex green
N/A	Dewdrop	CrisWoodSews	Stone Mountain & Daughter	Linen blend	Essex red
N/A	Dewdrop	CrisWoodSews	Fabrics Store	Linen	Color block red orange
N/A	Dewdrop	CrisWoodSews	Fabrics Store	Linen	Color block purple yellow
N/A	Kama Square Neck	DiY Daisy	Fabrics Store	LInen	Color block scrap linen

Beverly:

Isola Jumpsuit from Daughter Judy using fun fabric from Charley Harper

Underwood Tank from Sew House Seven – FAIL – not sure what happened but the pattern as I printed it had the neck and arm bands equal to the opening!  Need to retry with shorter bands.

New patterns:

French Navy has an expanded size range! Now up to a 63” hip! 

Belinda Button up

Tarifa Tee

Sew Over It Lined Frankie Jacket

Brooks Ann’s website

Brooks Ann on Love to Sew

DIY Dressform eBook

All of Brooks Ann’s courses

Brooks Ann on Instagram

Brooks Ann’s blog post about how to choose and use a thimble

Clover Needle Threader

Tulip Sewing Needles – sizes 7, 8, 9

BrooksAnn links:

BrooksAnn.com

my Prep School for Custom Sewing website:

https://learnwithbrooksann.com

my blog:

https://brooksann.com/blog/

Brooks Ann on Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/brooksanncamper/

Sign up for my “Custom Sewing Love Letters” here:

signup

My 4-part  “26th Sewiversary!” series starts here:

https://brooksann.com/my-26th-sew-iversary-pt-1-academics/

More about the difference between fashion sewing and custom sewing in this blog post “Two Myths of Learning to Make Your Own Sewing Patterns”:

https://brooksann.com/two-myths-learning-make-sewing-patterns/

The 3-part “behind the seams” series of the making of the color-blocked dress I wore to Frocktails which Jenny mentioned starts here:

https://brooksann.com/i-made-myself-the-coolest-dress-pt-1-pattern-design-mockup/

Here’s the article I wrote for Threads Magazine on thimbles. (Though it’s behind a paywall.)

Ultimate Guide to Thimbles

The Threads article was a newer fancier version of this post from my blog “How to Choose and Use a Thimble”:

https://brooksann.com/how-to-choose-and-use-a-thimble/

Here’s the free “Condensed guide” for padding a dress form as your body double:

https://brooksann.com/padding-a-dress-form/

Here’s the link to buy the ebook:

https://learnwithbrooksann.com/figure-it-out/

If you would like to help support us making this show, please go to Patreon.com/punkfrockers to sign up for one of three tiers of support.  We appreciate our patreon subscribers SOOO much!  

Sponsor this month: Club DIBY one pattern per week!  (Do it better yourself) There are also quite a few free patterns if you want to try the instructions etc before you commit!

Sew Explicit Eve dress pattern 63” hip

Catch up:

Jenny:

Beverly:

Creative Hinterland hack #7 – pintuck shirt dress.  Love this one!  Altered the front for pin tucks, changed the front to one piece instead of bodice/skirt, left the back the same.

Embroidery

Ogden Cami -(59.5”) scrap fabric that I came across – wide fabric can make this cami out of one yard in my size but may have to make lining (facing) from different fabric.  This time I made the facing smaller.

New Patterns:

French Poetry Pleiades 2 dress – up to 64’ hip (separate size band, not up graded from small)

Elbe Textiles – Davis Crossbody vest

Peppermint Magazine Samford Set ($5-$20) Up to 60” hip

Made in collaboration with Sew to Grow’s sensational Lindsey Rae, the Peppermint Samford Set is the ultimate in day pyjamas – a loosely cropped, camp-collared shirt that brings the perfect amount of slouch, and a pair of wide-leg pants with front pockets, back pockets and an elasticated waistband with a cute drawstring. 

Uncut Marselis Dress & top max 63” chest

The body of the top and dress nearly forms a full circle, resulting in a loose and flowy fit. All versions cut just above the bust and you have the option of sleeveless halter-style ties, short drop-shoulder sleeves or long sleeves with elasticated wrists. The dress version cuts just above the knees and the top cuts at the hip.

Croquis: pro/con, methods

My body model, now owned by Cashmerette ; their Insta feed has lots of options. 

Create your own custom croquis Sew Daily

Free croquis in different sizes Fancy Tiger Craft

Creating a croquis using Procreate YouTube What Vicki Made

I also bought some varied size croquis from artists on Etsy. 

Skip the body & just use the line art from the pattern to plan. 

Journals: pro/con, methods

Curvy sketchbook by Cashmerette

Build your own journal sheets with a croquis in Doc or Word

Logging: pro/con, methods

Jenny’s log in Google

Want to sponsor?  DM

Reminder to rate & review

Reminder to join our Patreon

Sponsor this month: Club DIBY one pattern per week!  (Do it better yourself) There are also quite a few free patterns if you want to try the instructions etc before you commit!

Sew Explicit Eve dress pattern 63” hip

Catch up:

Jenny:

Beverly:

Roscoe Blouse from True Bias (larger sizes) (59.5”)

Mood fabric – weird print but I like it.  Added a button placket and used 30 degree angle for bias tape 

True Bias Dani Pants (larger)

Black textured cotton from Core Fabrics

Jenny was right, didn’t need the zipper.  Will make faux fly next time.

New Patterns:

Style Arc Spencer Woven Pant – up to 70” hip 

Itch to Stitch Coimbra Wrap Top – up to 62” hip, meant for knit fabric

#SewFrugal2023 – all month long

Free patterns! 

Our episode from last year: #69 Free Patterns – warning: only up to our previous 55” standard, MOST of them do not meet new standard.

Tulip Dress – made to measure tutorial – Jenny shipped this up in less than 2 hours. 

Simple caftan – made to measure tutorial 

DIY Daisy Maya Dress or Top – jennys made this one before

NEW CrisWoodSews Start Here Top

Free Jumpsuits from the Rational Dress society – ungendered, but NOT unisex

Sizing information with body/fit type choices – up to 62” hip

Closet Core T-shirt pattern – up to 63” chest

With a slightly boxy silhouette, it comes in two lengths with two sleeve options

Hemlock Tee by Grainline Studios – up to 61” hip

The Artists Wrap skirt from Artist Made Patterns – up to 66” hip

View A is a knee length skirt with curved seams and less gathers in the waist. View B is a midi length skirt with straight seams and more gathers in the waist. Both views feature pockets! The pattern also comes with digital stencils that are inspired by the work of Carmen Herrera and instructions for how to create your own hand painted version of the skirt.

A0 or A4/letter size

Peg Leg Leggings from Patterns for Pirates – up to 64” hip

We mentioned this one last year, but it’s great so I will repeat: Sew House Seven Elemental skirt up to 65” hip

Peppermint Magazine Bowen Dress – up to 61” hip.  New patterns from Peppermint are on a pay what you can (minimum $5) but it appears old ones are still free.  

Sam Apron from Helen’s closet– up to 62” hip

Mood Fabrics has many free patterns and most go up to ~63” hip.  There are sometimes drafting problems especially for larger sizes so we don’t often recommend them unless we have tested.  However, it was the only source of free Menswear patterns in this size range that I could find aside from a few T-shirt patterns.  Here is a link to Menswear/unisex. All Gender Patterns

Here are the Woodsia shorts, which Jim would LOVE.  

Want to sponsor?  DM

Reminder to rate & review

Reminder to join our Patreon

105 Outside Your Comfort Zone in sewing #pfHotStuff 

21 Feb 2023

Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best.  I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!

Catch up:

Jenny:

Tauko magazine has accepted one of my designs for Issue #9 – coming out toward the end of 2023.  I’m overwhelmed because I didn’t imagine this would happen – and also because there’s so much to do now.  I’ve got the base pattern drafted, and mostly graded.  Next up is WRITING INSTRUCTIONS, including instructions for something I’m only able to do successfully by watching a video, lol.  So there’s that – but the nice folks at Tauko assure me that they’ll be there to help make the instructions stronger, add illustrations, etc.  

Big thanks to everyone who encouraged me to try – especially Beverly.

I’m also nearly done with my first Blanca Flight Suit from Close Core Patterns.  This is almost entirely due to Sara from Fabric_Scraps reaching out to ask if I wanted an accountability partner for this make – since she also needed one.  We both sat down at 9 am one Saturday and worked together, sending photos back and forth, along with words of encouragement & advice.  I have just the collar & sleeves to complete – but I got nervous and sewed up the body side seams and crotch seams early just to confirm that it’ll fit before finishing the other bits up.  And it does!  There’s the typical “how fitted can I make the bodice and still pull this on-and-off” problem.  This is more complicated with my CGM.  LOL!

Beverly: Been making workout shorts – pretty boring.  Just Hudson pants shortened and without the pockets.  I want to make some Friday Pattern Co Sport Shorts too (up to 63” hip).  And possibly the Greenstyle Balboa Shorts (up to 62” hip). 

Second version of Nepheline Blouse by Vivian Shao Chen

 (Up to 62” hip)

New Patterns

Daughter Judy 

Isola Jumpsuit

Jenny: Dammit.  I’m definitely buying/making this one.  OMG.  A zipper & straps.  I will say my local Joann doesn’t carry zippers long enough in store for someone my size to buy for projects like this – I have to order each time (Wawak!).

Up to 67” hip

FROM $14

PATTERN NO. 602

The Isola is a modern take on the overall. Slim cut through the body with a darted bodice for added shaping. 

Great for layering or worn on its own.

Itch to stitch: Nusle Joggers – Up to 62” hip

Whether you want to stay in or work out, do it in style with these cozy and comfy Nusle Joggers! With one pattern, you get three different looks—1) The long version has split side hems and falls straight down from the knees; 2) the slim-fit, ankle length version has taper legs and is finished with cuffs; and 3) the capri version ends at high calves and is finished with cuffs. Designed for four-way stretch knit fabric, the Nusle sits at the natural waist and has an elastic waistband.

Nusle Joggers Features:

• Elastic waistband with drawstring
• Mid-rise that sits at the natural waist
• Three options:
  • Long Split Hem
  • Ankle Cuff
  • Capri Cuff
• Slanted front pockets
• Designed for medium 4-way stretch knit fabric with good recovery

Sew Liberated Cosecha Pants

Jenny: I’m intrigued.  Something’s very wrong with the world when I’m thinking “dang, those PANTS are cute.”

Whst does risk taking in sewing look like? How do you tackle something outside your comfort zone? 

My comfort zone for sewing lies firmly in the “loose dress with gathers” space.  Stepping outside of that has always been painful.  How do we get into ruts in sewing, and how do we get back out again? 

1. Sew with a friend who will encourage you to push yourself
2. Share your plan publicly – instagram can give you a forum for saying you’ll do something and being held to account to … actually do it.
3. Look at the skills you feel uncomfortable about, and make a plan to improve them.  My hatred of buttons is at least in part based on how difficult it is for me to feel like my buttonhole placement, my buttonhole stitches, are good enough.  Making many pairs of overalls has fixed the buttonhole stitches problem. 
4. Make a list, and check things off as you are able.  It’s low pressure, but involves all the fun of checking things off a list.  You can use the Notes function in your phone for this most likely, but there are also so many different really cute note pads you can employ for this.  I’m a digital list person for sewing, and weirdly a physical list person for work. 
5. Randomly select a pattern that’s out of your comfort zone every (week, month, quarter, vacation, etc) and commit to making it happen.  You’ll learn a lot by what you feel when you pick the random pattern (random number generator, put them in a box and pull randomly, make someone else pick one for you, etc).

I’m working on really understanding pants so I can …. Design my own overalls.  Ulp. I think this means I have to keep making pants.  I wonder if I will?

Resources:

How do to something new. Wikihow.

Want to sponsor?  DM

Reminder to rate & review

Reminder to join our Patreon

Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best.  I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!

Catch up:

Jenny:

I’ve made two different color-blocked York Pinafores.  These are the Helen’s Closet pattern that I make in a smaller size than would be correct for my body measurements per the size chart.  With both, I made one half of the front in a contrast fabric. It’s been a great way to use up some fabric that I have large scraps of, but not enough to make a York (even though this is a very good pattern for using up a smaller length of fabric for me).  I’m also enamored of the marsupial pouch pocket these days. 

Beverly: I finished knitting a sweater that I started a few years ago. At the beginning of football season, I had just the sleeves to go.  I finished the night of the first playoff game.  For those interested, it is called “Breathing Space” by Veera Valimaki.  It is a lovely pattern, very well written and probably easily finished in less than three years by others.  

New Patterns Tauko Tuesday!

I’ve already printed Parabolic, Jordan, Marsupial, and Over-It.

Capsule wardrobe: 

Beverly: I am going on a very big vacation this May and I want to make a new capsule wardrobe for it.  AND, I’m going to NYC next weekend so I can shop for fabric!!!

Jenny:

This is so different than how I think about my wardrobe, and my clothing in general, that I hardly know how to think about it.  Most of my garments are dresses withs sleeves, so I rarely wear two me-made things at the same time.  With my new exploration of pinafores, overalls, etc – there’s some possibility here.  I think my first step would be finding top patterns I’d like to use in multiple ways (shirts, wraps, jackets) that would coordinate with, over, under, overalls & pinafores.

But in the end, Beverly is gonna do the heavy lifting on this one.

Resources:

7 steps to a capsule wardrobe

Jess – fat.bobbin.girl

Broad In The Seams (also Jess) wardrobe planning 

Sew Liberated Mindful wardrobe planning 

TomKat Stitchery You Tube series: The great module sew along – one topper, 2 bottoms and 3 tops

My ideas for what i need: May is warm but not hot in Portugal.  I think that means we need to be prepared for chilly too.  Not sure.  I want to make shorts, tops and a couple of dresses.  

Shorts:  True Bias Dani Shorts and Pants smaller band, larger band (up to 62”) – although they sell the two bands separately with different sites for each size band, I do want to commend True Bias on the ease of finding size chart. For each pattern there is a “measurements” tab that drops open to show body measurements, final garment measurements and fabric requirements.  So helpful!

I love these shorts.  I own this pattern but have not made it.  I have some textured cotton from Core Fabrics that would be awesome for these.  

I also really love the Closet Core Pietra shorts (up to 63” hip) and the Sew House Seven Free Range slacks (up to 66” hip).

Tops: 

Elisabeth Suzann Georgia Tee 62” hip

Helen’s Closet Reynolds Top. 62” hip

Dress: 

Sauvie Sundress by Sew House 7 65.5”

Caramiya Yesterday Dress. 62” hip

Marseille Dress – Hey June Handmade – up to 63” hip Love this one!

Also want a hands and shoulder free option for a bag! Greenstyle Adventure Bag

Want to sponsor?  DM

Reminder to rate & review

Reminder to join our Patreon

Sponsor: Sheila O’Kelly https://sheilaokellydesigns.bigcartel.com – any of her large circular makeup bags – she will ship anywhere in the world!

Punkfrockers is adding a prize to help Terrance Williams reach his goal of selling enough headbands to buy a new sewing machine! 

Catch up:

Jenny:  I’m finding new patterns to sew instead of my current overall pattern. The next attempt for me is one by True Bias Riley.  Check my Instagram as well to see the experiment I’ve got going on with these stubbornly popular overalls that the design is not planning to extend sizing on – I’m trying them in sizes 22 to 30 to show how they fit on my body (which is 1” outside of the patterns range at the size 30).  

Beverly shared with me that she just doesn’t make things we can’t talk about on the show, so I’m going to try that too. Fingers crossed I can be more aware and do better.

Beverly:

First make of the year – Sew House Seven Free Range slacks (Up to 65” hip here) using the leftover blue/purple gingham linen from Merchant and Mills, that came all the way from England but still qualifies as #pfLocalFabric.

Klum House Fremont Bag – using their full maker kit – I bought the one labeled “seconds” for $35 less and I couldn’t tell what was wrong with it.  Very simple to make!

Community news:

 Closet Core has started a subscription service (all new Closet Core patterns are drafted up to size 32, which is 61” hip for them) similar to what Cashmerette has done.  Stringthing gave me a different perspective on this that I would like to discuss.  

New patterns:

Paradise Patterns Protea pants max 61” hip

The Protea Pant is a modern trouser with chic front pleats, sweeping pant legs, and a curved waistband. It offers two ways of sewing the waistband. The first way is better for light-to-midweight fabrics, and if you like the look of topstitching. The second method is for mid-to-heavyweight fabrics, or if you like a clean, more traditional trouser waistband. View A has pleats in front, View B has a flat front. This pattern will teach you some fun techniques, including:

–

Tammy Handmade Mila Jumper – max 60” hip size chart

The Mila Jumper is a stylish pattern that features dolman dropped sleeves that are wider at the shoulder and then taper at the wrists. This slip-on and slouchy fit makes the perfect cozy jumper for beginner sewists looking for a quick yet satisfying make! This jumper can easily be hacked for a cropped look or longer length.

–

Birgitta Helmerson Bell Jacket – max 60” hip

This is an oversized jacket with a rounded collar, front button closure, 3 front patch pockets, an inverted box pleat at the centre back neck, and wide sleeves that are perfect for fitting all of your winter layers underneath. The Bell jacket gets it’s name from the bell shaped sleeve, created with several darts sewn into the hem of the sleeve. This jacket is fully lined.

Xanthe Woven Dress from Style Arc – up to 70” hip

“A” line dress featuring front tucks, long sleeves, “V” neck and collar.

BREAK FOR SEAMS interview

If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com.  We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week!  Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?! 

If you would like to support us, please visit patreon.com/punkfrockers.

#100 – let’s look back at our first 100 episodes #pfLocalFabrics

Sponsor: Sheila O’Kelly https://sheilaokellydesigns.bigcartel.com – any of her large circular makeup bags – she will ship anywhere in the world!

Punkfrockers is adding a prize to help Terrance Williams reach his goal of selling enough headbands to buy a new sewing machine! 

If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com.  We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week!  Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?! 

If you would like to support us, please visit patreon.com/punkfrockers.

Catch up:

Jenny:

Started a toile for a Tauko proposal. And I can’t say more or it’s not a valid proposal any more. 😂😂😂. Wanting to make overalls – send recommendations! 60” hip + I’ve already cut out a pair that don’t meet that requirement – hoping the designer chooses to expland since their current size chart does exceed 60”.  I’ve got the Leo by By Hand London on my cutting table next – max 69” hip.

Beverly suggested Helen’s Closet Ruby overalls

Beverly:

2 ZW Gather Dresses! 

New pattern:

Birch Vest Pattern Scout – up to 60” hip

The Birch Vest is a lined waistcoat with princess seams, a deep scoop neckline, and a front button closure. A transitional wardrobe staple, Birch can be worn alone or layered with matching separates for a tailored or casual style.

Lets look back at our first 100 episodes

Favorite episode? 

Jenny – #5 – Definitely not guaranteed sewing tips

Beverly – #66 All about Linen, #5, Definitely not guaranteed sewing tips

Favorite challenge?

Jenny – #pfScrappy – really resonated with listeners, and I actually figured out how to use scraps in my sewing.  

Beverly – #pfBondage – best name and also nice to slow down and add beautiful details.  I love the garments I made that month with bias bound waistbands

Favorite interview? 

Jenny – So many.  I loved Beverly’s panel chat about gender & sewing.  Interviewing MimiG was a stand out for me as well.

Beverly – Jim! Also Terrance Williams – #1 best laugh of anyone i know.  Also loved Florence Taylor – it was like having a long time friend come chat with us.

Favorite moment?

Jenny – Dammit, Beverly took mine – tkt, tx was AWESOME.  

Beverly – When we learned the difference between tkt and Tx for thread size!  Haha! 

What did you learn?

Jenny – how to slow down, and do things “righter”.  I curse/bless Beverly for making my sewing practice more annoying/better.  I learned how to edit a podcast.  I learned how to make friends with sewists.

Beverly – SO MUCH!  Jenny is an awesome business person.  She knows how to say things diplomatically.  I can change a normal situation to awkward and defensive and Jenny just fixes it for me.  I learned the extent of the hurt and harm caused by unequal access to patterns based on size.  And I learned that the sewing community can pressure that to change and succeed!

How is your sewing practice different? 

Jenny – OMG.  I use pins.  I iron.  I PREWASH.  DAMMIT.

Beverly – I’m better at knowing if something is my style before I make it.  

What do you want to see more of?

Jenny – More interviews.  We’ve stepped away from those (not intentionally) but I loved getting other voices on the show.

Beverly – Community love!  Would love more people to find and enjoy our podcast and for folks to feel welcome and at home with us.

Hopes for the next 100 episodes? 

Jenny – Seeing more changes in the greater sewing world that meet the needs of all sewists.  More attention paid to gender bias in sewing patterns, more extended sizing (60” is not enough!), more representation for fat, old, queer sewists.

Beverly – that we will meet the community needs and wants with our show.  

Rate & review using

#99 the year in review – personal 

Sponsor: Sheila O’Kelly https://sheilaokellydesigns.bigcartel.com – any of her large circular makeup bags – she will ship anywhere in the world!

Punkfrockers is adding a prize to help Terrance Williams reach his goal of selling enough headbands to buy a new sewing machine! We’ll buy you a headband if you are the lucky winner this month.  Episode 13.

If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com.  We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week!  Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?! 

If you would like to support us, please visit patreon.com/punkfrockers.

Catch up:

Jenny:

Sewed several ponchos, working on a free pattern for two different versions. Struggling to update my patterns to all meet the 60” new PF guideline for mention on the program.

Beverly: Jim’s matching vest and fanny pack

Merchant and Mills Billy

Greenstyle Adventure Bag

New pattern:

Lore Piar Farra Pants Up to 72” hip!  

It is a classic 5-pocket pants, with two front pockets, 1 coin pocket, and two back patch pockets.

The fit of this pattern is high-waisted and fitted at the waist, hips, and thighs with negative ease until the knee.

The yoke cut is unique and not only makes this design look special visually but it is also designed to accentuate and give the best shape to your back with the help of two strategically placed darts.

You can choose the style of the leg with 3 different views:

VIEW A: Straight

VIEW B: Wide

VIEW C: Flare

This pattern also comes with 9 embroidery templates to rock on your patch pockets.

What did 2022 in sewing look like for us? 

Jenny:

203 total makes

2020: 356

2021: 244

2022: 203

664.5 yards of fabric

Average of 3.3 yards per garment

155 Dresses, 23 tops, 13 skirts

34 different designers

Designer	#
CaramiyaMaui	60
Jenny Hassler	44
Other	18
Made By Rae	15
Cashmerette	10
CrisWoodSews	10
StyleArc	8
Muna & Broad	6
Fibr&Cloth	5
Jennifer Lauren Handmade	5
Fibremood	4
Helen’s closet	4
SewHouse7	4
5 out of 4	3
Closet core	3
Elbe Textiles	2
Friday Pattern Company	2
Grand Total	203

47 different sources of fabric

Source	#	%
Other	41	20%
Fabrics-store	40	20%
Joann	15	7%
Fabric.com	13	6%
Seams Fabrics	13	6%
Gift	9	4%
Domesticity	8	4%
Hello Friend Fabrics	8	4%
Mood	8	4%
Core Fabrics	7	3%
Fine Fabrics USA	7	3%
Julia Cost	6	3%
Spoonflower	6	3%
Simplifi Fabrics	5	2%
Dharma	4	2%
Warp & Weft Textiles	4	2%
Blackbird	3	1%
CraftHabitRaleigh	3	1%
Mulberry Silks	3	1%
Grand Total	203	100%

Linen was my favorite fabric.  Thanks, Beverly!

Type	#
Linen	53
Cotton	35
Cotton knit	24
Other	22
Rayon	10
Double gauze	7
Ankara	6
French Terry	5
Yarn dyed cotton	5
Denim	4
Jacquard	4
Lawn	4
Poplin	4
Sateen	4
Silk	4
Eyelet	3
Quilted	3
Velour	3
Voile	3
Grand Total	203

57 different test sews (some of these are multiples of the same garment, 80% were paid)

Beverly:

I kept track of my makes this year!  I made 98 items, almost entirely garments!

13 were items for other people, namely Jim and my mom.

About ⅓ dresses, ⅓ tops, and half that in pants and shorts combined.  Others are pajamas, workout clothes, bags, etc

Avg 2.3 yds fabric

40 diff designers

81 diff patterns. Jenny: 68

29 diff fabric sources

41 diff types of fabric!  How can this be right?

79 success, 10 fail, 6 meh. Jenny 154 not in my closet now

Top three fabric sources: Mood, Domesticity, Stylemaker

Top three designers: Sew Liberated, Merchant and Mills, Elisabeth Susann

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