My Creature from the Black Lagoon hat (gill ruffles) OMG, that’s amazing – just the thought is inspiring!
My favorite movie ruffles: Sadie Frost’s costumes as Lucy, in 1992 Bram Stoker’s Dracula (by costume designer Eiko Ishioka, who won the Academy Award for Costume Design that year)
TheBespokeBusiness – new podcast sewing & business related – new from Aaronica
Exciting news from coaching business – got two new coaching ready to launch in September specific to makers: SoPaid for the content creators & SoPaid for the maker
Checkout Instagram on Aug 21 -22 to see big news as well!
introduce yourself and tell folks how to find you.
When, how, and why did you learn to sew? Learned to sew from grandma and continued to sew after she passed away. Stopped sewing in college. Started sewing again – mostly quilts – when she graduated. A few years back, a new year’s eve resolution led to her learning to make garments for herself. Didn’t know about indie patterns or the online sewing community. Recalls going to Joann Fabrics and buying French curves and long tape measurements to get her head around how to upsize any Big Four pattern. She assumed she had to learn to draft, but drafting hasn’t been required thanks to indie patterns. Pretty much sews everything she makes now. Doesn’t like to sew work out clothing, bras, undies, or PJs.
We’re asking listeners to find inspiration in other makers (or really anywhere) and tag #pfSuperFan. You can twin with someone (ask permission to duplicate a specific garment/fabric), be inspired by someone (be respectful and check in with your inspiration), or express your Super Fandom (Doctor Who, Manga, whatever).
I’m really energized by this – and wanted to remind our listeners that you can post previous makes (I’ve got SO MANY that were inspired by Katie Kortman, for example) and new makes. I’m planning to twin Beverly for sure – I’ve already picked out the outfit & the fabric – no surprise that it’s probably blue & linen.
Call us & give us your questions:
828-290-9043
Guest Edited by Kelly Hogaboom of Bespoke Hogaboom.
Cleo Skirt upsized: old, fat model featured in announcement. Spoiler: it’s me
So many 12 & counting – Caramiya Yesterday Dress
Beverly: I have been overwhelmed with work this week! I am about halfway through my first pair of Ginger Jeans! This is a stretch jeans pattern, recently upgraded to size 32, 63” hip measurement. I’ve purchased 11 oz Cone Mills S-Gene Stretch Denim Deadstock – Indigo from Core Fabrics. I also purchased a zip and needles from them. They recommended a stretch interfacing for the waistband that I also purchased but forgot about until just now. Fitting method- just changing the waist and didn’t do a toile. For stretch fabric I’d have to make a full pant toile and I didn’t have the appropriate fabric for it. I probably should have baste fit them, but I didn’t.
I have several dresses on my list to make, but I don’t have time for much sewing right now. My Tauko magazine came in and the Helpa dress is calling me. Will I trace it out? Probably not right now. I have many already printed. Probably my next one will be the Gabby or Elora from Fibremood.
Sewing deliberately: what does thoughtful sewing look like for each of us? What’s our sewing practice? How has it changed over the years?
Jenny:
I’m planning to slow down. I’d like to make something every week, with a heavier focus on details, thoughtfulness, ironing, and pins. Is it even possible to change how you approach your sewing?
We’re digging into our past challenges to renew our call for increased representation by pattern companies. I’d like to challenge our listeners to only make things this month from pattern designers that offer diversity in their imagery & design: fat, old, queer, disabled, etc.
I made the Merchant and Mills Etta dress (larger sizes here), a new wrap dress from what is becoming my favorite pattern company. Used https://fabrics-store.com/black IL019 linen for my toile. I think the bodice is too big, but I will wash it before I try a smaller size (already chose a size below my measurements. Made a few mistakes so I’m really glad I did a practice before my fancy fabric. 2nd practice will be a top.
I started cutting out the Fibremood Simone – totally out of comfort zone fabric. It’s Katie Kortman double gauze that I bought last summer and I’m mixing two prints, one for ruffles and one for the rest. I am so excited to make the dress version too. Did you add ruffles to your dress? The others I have seen haven’t seemed as gathered as yours. Love the fabric you chose.
Jenny:
Jenny’s makes since last time: Cardenia Chemise by CaramiyaMaui, Tate by Caramiya Maui, two Simones by FIbremood, Florence by Merchant & Mills, Amelie by Untitled Thoughts, Jill by Fibremood, and Kinfold by Jennifer Lauren Handmade.
Pattern Features – The low front and back V-necklines and narrow straps were designed to cover bra straps and optional bra keeper instructions are included to hide and secure your bra straps within the garment for that extra couture detail.
With two pocket options, three hem finishes, two waist finishes and two hem lengths, you can mix and match any of the version’s features.
Front & Back V-necklines – the back neck is low but should just barely cover a bra.
Shoulder straps that cover bra straps with optional bra keeper snaps.
Bust Darts
Pockets: Version A= topstitched, single layer pockets; Version B= in-seam, loose pockets
Version #1 – loose at the waist with above the knee hem.
Version #2 – loose waist, midi length with side vents.
Version #3 – wide elasticized waist, midi hem, A-line skirt.
Version #4 – wide elasticized waist, midi hem length with bottom ruffle.
Wearing the Auvers is like hearing a whisper in the summer breeze—it is soft, gentle and delicate. The Auvers Top is designed for very lightweight woven fabric. In the front, two halves cross diagonally to create a V neckline. Elastic is applied on the bottom front to create a blouson effect. The back has a shirttail hem. Because it is sleeveless, it’s perfect to be worn under a jacket or cardigan, but of course, it is also great to be worn alone, tucked or untucked!
Attended sewing retreat by TopStitchAtl – and it was divine! A great time – well organized, good pacing, lots of free time, and focused time. Staff were amazing.
Beverly:
Made a #pfScrappy dress but it needs some work. I used some nani iro double gauze and several types of linen and it hangs weird. It is a landscape dress from a photo of the place Jim and I got engaged.
Made a matching Ashton top to go with the resort wear shirt I made for Jim.
Made another Dragon Fruit dress in beautiful leaf printed cotton voile from Mood fabrics. – had a struggle with the serger, but it turned out ok.
Brittney https://www.instagram.com/brttnlsn/ talks about making still functional quilts into clothing as akin to gentrification and notes that many quilters still here say they’d be devastated to see their quilts cut up for clothing. Once a quilt no longer functions as a blanket, she likens its use as fabric to a collaboration with the original artist.
Mary Fons (Fons&Porter?) posted a viral video that said quilts into clothing is never ok – and likened it to cultural appropriation. Eek. The language used & tone of the vid got a lot of grief from BIOOC quilters especially.
Is there an intersection with fat here? A quilt is a good-sized bit of fabric from one perspective. 😂
Tiny pricks project – IG – I submitted some artwork for this project. The formal project is over now, but the account is still a great one to follow. Diana Weymar created the project – stitching a material record. Lots of quotes by Trump and responses to him. She started it using thrifted and other vintage housewares.
I’ve done some sewing!!! This week I made a slightly more A-line Ashton top using Pierre Cardin floral fabric from Mood Fabrics. I added an inch to the hem and made a straight line. It came out really nice!
Next I made a Caramiya Dragonfruit! Also from Mood. I love it! The fabric is the same that I sent to Jenny. Did you get it yet? If not, I won’t talk about it. I totally did!!
Finally I made an Ashton dress! I did it just like you said – cut at cropped top length, and add a gathered skirt. My fabric was about 52 inches after removing selvedge, so I used 2x that width and gathered it. So many compliments! Yesterday at work a woman asked me, “Where on earth do you shop? You’ve got the best clothes!”
New patterns:
Elbe Textiles Weiland tank: cropped tank – max measurements 58.5 chest and 50” waist – love to see a C/D cup in a tank. I am interested in making the Caladium Jumpsuit by Caramiya and I think this would be a great thing to wear under it.
Itch to Stitch Sentosa Tank: I don’t usually go for things like this, but I like it. It is a loose-fitting tank with an asymmetrical pleated neckline. It is designed for knit fabric but several examples appeared to be woven. Lots of examples on the website.
So what’s our topic this month? We’re taking a cue from our listeners, and this month we’re looking at all things scrappy. The hashtag is #pfScrappy. We asked you all to give us ideas for this year’s episodes and MargieMakes, FatThighsAndMermaidPants, and Sara.Fornia all suggested scrap busting, using up what you have, or color blocking – and that’s great for this month’s theme.
Margiemakes
Frugal challenge, like use what you have? Or a pattern you’ve been putting of?
fatThightsAndMermaidPants
Scrap buster, but with ideas for fat sewists
SaraFornia
Scrap buster
SaraFornia
Color blocking
Examples might include:
Underwear: it’s easy to use up knit scraps here; before I realized I just like my Cacique ready to wear undies, I used my knit scraps to cut fronts, backs, and linings so I’d be ready to make u dies any time. Fav pattern is the Muna & broad Kapunda undies. Up to a 71.5” hip
Isabelle_sews – and if you don’t follow her, you SHOULD!- has posted a few dresses with pieced bodices and I am so inspired. She mentions in her posts that she was inspired by mabelmade and pettypopcornmakes. I went to their Instagram pages and OMG! So much good stuff for this challenge.
Make your own fabric: here you can piece together a quilt pattern & use it to cut out a garment, or strip piece fabrics together to the same end. I have several plans along these lines already.
Pants: Tauko Panel pants are designed for color blocking. Max 53” waist (finished fitted measurement).
Do you have a treasured fabric? Consider following DivineDita (Nandita) & using it as an accent.
Make a garment where you cut each piece out of a different fabric.
Pdxsquared made this beautiful quilt out of largish pieces of leftover linen – smaller than you’d generally use for a pattern piece, but larger than quilt pieces often are.
Here’s RenegadeSeamstres to share more ideas on how to make use of scraps in your sewing this month!
Let’s do a deep dive in to one of our favorite fibers: Linen. Right of the bat, let’s be clear that we’re not experts. We’re linen-lovers, but that doesn’t mean we’re where you should come for you eduction about linen. For that, please go to Love to Sews episode about linen & their podcast all about different fabrics.
Is your linen scratchy? Whitney suggests soaking in 50% coke, 50% water. She thinks the acid does the trick. Perhaps a citric acid wash would do well too. Ooo! So you could try Mountain Dew, too!
So why do we love linen?
I have Beverly to thank for my love of linen. This is a fiber I just thought of as too expensive for me to sew with – even though, most of the linen I buy is about the same price as high quality quilting cotton (but wider!) & nice rayons (same width). While I do mostly source from Fabric-store.com, here are some other great places to get linens:
Where to buy:
Mulberry Silks: Sign up for their newsletter, call them and ask for help with their linens, or if you’re lucky enough to be in the area, go visit them in NC. Everything about this varies wildly – price, width, texture.
Mood Fabrics: I want to call out specifically their Mood exclusive Linen & Rayon blend fabrics. These are 53” wide, and 55% linen/45% viscose rayon. They wash up and feel like a silk noil to me – and I’m here for it. I love the drape, the hand, the smell, everything about these. About $18/yard.
Domesticity: This is the Baltimore shop we met podcast listeners at a in February. They carry the Merchant & Mills linens which are as delightful as their very high price tag would imply. I’ve got one on my cutting table now for the new Jennifer Lauren Handmade Isla wrap dress.
This sweet dress or top features a cut-out scoop neckline, pockets, and shirring in the back for an easy, comfortable fit. Choose from two lengths (dress or top), scoop or cutout neckline, and sleeveless or cap sleeves to create a number of different styles. No zippers or closures are needed, making this a wonderful project for the confident beginner or intermediate sewist!
Ruby:
Ruby is a great, basic beginner’s dress or top for woven fabrics!
Ruby features a contrast yoke and gathers for a comfortable and flattering fit without the need for bust darts, zippers, or closures. Armholes and neckline are bias-bound for an easy finish. Two lengths, dress (above the knee) and top (hip length) are included.
Boho is in full bloom with the Alton Blouse! The Alton features striking pleated sleeves with elastic cuffs or straight long sleeves and a faced keyhole neckline that can be worn open or tied. Sew yours up in a silk or voile for an ethereal blouse you’ll love to wear, or mix and match the Alton with the Montrose Top’s necklines, yoke, and sleeves for even more options!
Montrose:
This timeless pattern features two variations: View A is a scoop neck blouse with short sleeves and curved back yoke, while View B shows off lace fabrics with a jewel neck, elbow length sleeves, and keyhole back.
View A – Easy fitting, fit and flare dress with long gathered sleeves and an A-line, lantern shaped skirt. There are self-fabric ties at the waist, a back-zip closure and the v-neckline is finished with a facing.
View B – Easy fitting, fit and flare shirt style dress with grown on sleeves, ruffle cuff and an A-line lantern shaped skirt. There are self-fabric ties at the waist, button front closure and the neckline is finished with a facing.
