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Ep 66: All About Linen

Topic: All About Linen 

Sponsors:

3/10/2022StyleArcFree pattern – any monthMay
1/10/2022CaramiyaMauiFree pattern – any monthMay

Catch up:
Jenny:

I’ve been on a tear with the Isla Wrap dress by Jennifer Lauren Handmade.  I tested this dress is a lovely midweight navy linen, and then made another in a black-and-white windowpane cotton, followed by one from a quilting cotton printed with canned veggies.  I also made one more Dragonfruit dress by CaramiyaMaui  from a voile I bought at Mulberry Silks in Carrboro, NC.

Beverly:

I finally finished something!!! I made the Seamwork Marlow in navy blue linen from fabrics-store.com.  

I started my Merchant and Mills Eve Trousers toile.  Real toile!  Using muslin (calico) fabric all marked up with sharpie! I am using the Top-down-center-out method of fitting created by @ithacamaven

Let’s do a deep dive in to one of our favorite fibers:  Linen.  Right of the bat, let’s be clear that we’re not experts.  We’re linen-lovers, but that doesn’t mean we’re where you should come for you eduction about linen.  For that, please go to Love to Sews episode about linen & their podcast all about different fabrics.

Tomkat Stitchery new episode: Top 10 Patterns for Linen

Is your linen scratchy?  Whitney suggests soaking in 50% coke, 50% water. She thinks the acid does the trick.  Perhaps a citric acid wash would do well too.  Ooo!  So you could try Mountain Dew, too!

So why do we love linen?

I have Beverly to thank for my love of linen.  This is a fiber I just thought of as too expensive for me to sew with – even though, most of the linen I buy is about the same price as high quality quilting cotton (but wider!) & nice rayons (same width).  While I do mostly source from Fabric-store.com, here are some other great places to get linens:

Where to buy:

Mulberry Silks:  Sign up for their newsletter, call them and ask for help with their linens, or if you’re lucky enough to be in the area, go visit them in NC.  Everything about this varies wildly – price, width, texture.  

Mood Fabrics: I want to call out specifically their Mood exclusive Linen & Rayon blend fabrics. These are 53” wide, and 55% linen/45% viscose rayon.  They wash up and feel like a silk noil to me – and I’m here for it.  I love the drape, the hand, the smell, everything about these.  About $18/yard.

Domesticity:  This is the Baltimore shop we met podcast listeners at a in February.  They carry the Merchant & Mills linens which are as delightful as their very high price tag would imply.  I’ve got one on my cutting table now for the new Jennifer Lauren Handmade Isla wrap dress.

The Fabric Store in New Zealand

What to make:

StyleArc Hope Dress

Line drawing of a raglan dress with long sleeves gathered at the wrist.  Skirt is also gathered and extends to tunic or midi length.

Made by Rae Trillium Dress & Made by Rae Ruby Dress

  • Change the sleeves
  • Add a tie
  • Use a casing for the elastic
  • Add piping
  • Change amount of gathers/pleats
A headless body wears an orange dress with pleated skirt.  Neckline is round and scooped.  Bodice has cap sleeves.
Image of a dress with a dark above check yoke, to which is attached a gathered skirt made from orange fabric printed with white intricately drawn feathers.

Trillium: 

This sweet dress or top features a cut-out scoop neckline, pockets, and shirring in the back for an easy, comfortable fit. Choose from two lengths (dress or top), scoop or cutout neckline, and sleeveless or cap sleeves to create a number of different styles. No zippers or closures are needed, making this a wonderful project for the confident beginner or intermediate sewist!

Ruby: 

Ruby is a great, basic beginner’s dress or top for woven fabrics!

Ruby features a contrast yoke and gathers for a comfortable and flattering fit without the need for bust darts, zippers, or closures. Armholes and neckline are bias-bound for an easy finish. Two lengths, dress (above the knee) and top (hip length) are included.

Anything by Muna & Broad

This image features two images from a sewing website.  In both a plus size asian woman is modeling a garment.  In image 1, she is smiling & wearing a denim jacket with large pockets on the front at the waist & chest.  In image 2, she is not smiling and is wearing a black shirt with collar, pockets, and long sleeves.
Image 1: a white plus size person stands turned 2/3 of the way to the back, wearing a gold tank top tucked int o dark, slim legged pants.  In image 2, a white plus size person is facing the camera, wearing a white printed top with long sleeves, and bright pink pants with wide legs.
A white plus sized person is standing facing the camera, but looking off camera, in bright pink pants with wide legs, and a boxy top in a garnet color.

Alton Blouse by Cashmerette Club / Montrose Top by Cashmerette

Alton: 

Boho is in full bloom with the Alton Blouse! The Alton features striking pleated sleeves with elastic cuffs or straight long sleeves and a faced keyhole neckline that can be worn open or tied. Sew yours up in a silk or voile for an ethereal blouse you’ll love to wear, or mix and match the Alton with the Montrose Top’s necklines, yoke, and sleeves for even more options!

Montrose: 

This timeless pattern features two variations: View A is a scoop neck blouse with short sleeves and curved back yoke, while View B shows off lace fabrics with a jewel neck, elbow length sleeves, and keyhole back. 

A plus sized person with dark hair is wearing a white swiss dot top with a keyhole neckline that is tied closed at the top; the shirt has long sleeves with tucks in it at the bicep and near the wrist.  The wrist is  gathered.  This person is also wearing jeans which can be seem slightly at the bottom of the image.
A black and white line drawing of two shirt.  Shirt 1 is short sleeved, with bust darts on the front; the back has a yoke with a gathered skirt back attached.  The shirt is hip length.  Shirt 2 is boat necked, with elbow length sleeves, and is made from a lacy fabric.

Belemnite Dress by Marilla Walker

A line drawing of the front of a pattern envelope for the Marilla Walker Beleminte dress 101.  The dress is shown with two sleeve varieties, one is grown on long sleeves with a gathered wrist; the other is a short grown on sleeve with a wide ruffle attached.  The dress is princess seamed with waist ties that extend from the front princess seams to a bow in the back.  The skirt is gored and ends with a lantern hem.

BELEMNITE DRESS

View A – Easy fitting, fit and flare dress with long gathered sleeves and an A-line, lantern shaped skirt. There are self-fabric ties at the waist, a back-zip closure and the v-neckline is finished with a facing.

View B – Easy fitting, fit and flare shirt style dress with grown on sleeves, ruffle cuff and an A-line lantern shaped skirt. There are self-fabric ties at the waist, button front closure and the neckline is finished with a facing.

BONUS SLEEVE – View A with extra sleeve volume.

All of the patterns by Elizabeth Suzann

Helen’s closet Gilbert

An image of a fat person wearing a purple dyed button front top with a camp collar & ties at the waist.  The sleeves are short with a cuff.  The person is standing in front of greenery and trees, with their hand in their hair.

Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks

A black and white line drawing of pants with an elastic waist & deep front pockets.  In one version, the legs are tapered and a back patch pocket is added; in the second version, there is no back pocket and the pants are wide legged.  Both pairs of pants have a panel extending from waistband to cuff at both sides.

Merchant and Mills: Shirtdress, Factory Dress, Florence

Planning to try a linen scrap quilt, similar to this striped quilt pattern from Gathered.

This is an image of a quilt hanging on a wall.  It is made up of horizontal striped pieces.  Every other stripe is a single fabric, and the alternate strip is pieced from several different fabrics.  The fabrics are generally pastel prints, with a few bright orange & red fabrics used in the piecing.

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Episode 65: Sewing Getaways

Sponsors:

3/10/2022StyleArcFree pattern – any monthMay
1/10/2022CaramiyaFree pattern – any monthMay

Catch up: Beverly

News from my house – new blinds!!!  Love them so much. Need to make sheerish curtains. What do you think of the white IL020?

Got a package from Jenny!  Hand-dyed fabric (ice dyed) Is this the IL020? Beautiful blue green color.  I think I am going to make another Elizabeth Suzann Georgia tee and use the scrap of your purple dyed piece as an accent.  Or should I use a solid one that matches? Like this:

Two pieces of fabric, iced-dyed blue green on the left, purple/red on the right.
Woman taking a mirror selfie wearing a tan shirt with a bold and colorful stripe down one side.

I hope I have finished my Seamwork Marlow top by the time we record.  My next big plan is to make some Merchant and Mills Eve trousers  (larger size band here).  I am going to use the “top down, center out” method of pants fitting that was created by Ruth @ithacamaven.  I follow Stacey @thecrookethem thecrookedhem.net/, which is where I heard of this technique.  Stacey is a fantastic pattern “analyst” – she frequently shows how you can tell if patterns are balanced or not, how two patterns are different in different areas, stuff like that.  She also recently showed how to make a shoulder sloper and I was fascinated.  I like it because she puts more math in sewing.

Jenny:

By Hand London Anna Dress: I’ve made an Anna using the bodice only, and a very full skirt from a Madra plaid.  I love the Anna dress, but it’s been so long I forgot that the V-neck is too low on me – lol.  I’ll have to add a modesty triangle, or otherwise fix the neckline to really get much use out of this.  It did remind me of how much I love a Madras plaid though!  The bodice on this one uses pleated/gathered cups to add space for chestal appendages.

New test patterns:  I’m not allowed to talk about these yet, but I’m so happy that these are expanding.  It’ll be up to a 70” hip, too!  

Unleashed Embrace Dress:  Tested this, will discuss later in this episode.

Closet Core Blanca Flight Suit: Bought material to try too-down-center-out to see if that helps me get a good fit on my first boiler suit / flight suit.  My concerns are how quickly my hips become wider than my waist.  On every woven jumpsuit style I’ve made, there’s not been enough ease for me to sit down, or quickly remove if I need to use the bathroom even.  I have an upholstery canvas in bright blue with oranges all over it (my first alma mater’s colors) to try for this one.

Top Down Center out in brief: We’ve linked to it in the show notes, but basically, you fit the waist band separately first, then fit one leg (cut with extra ease in the side seam).  Once you’ve got both working as intended, you finish the second leg and >poof< you have pants that fit.

New patterns and updates:

Tilly and the Buttons has updated the Coco top and dress! It is now available for sizes up to 60/53/61.  It is an A-line knit dress, quirky 60’s look and it was one of the first things I made when I started sewing.  Very quick and easy sew.  Two different necklines to choose from, boatneck or funnel.  

The full size range is available as a pdf or as a paper pattern.

JH: I keep seeing this one everywhere and am interested in it.  I love the funnel neck in theory – but not always in practice.

Poppy Top from Pattern Scout – the top is a floaty, raglan sleeved top with a peplum on the bottom.  

DESCRIPTION:

The Poppy Blouse is a raglan peasant style blouse with three-quarter length bishop sleeves, a ruffle collar, and optional ruffle hem. It has an oversized silhouette, perfect for light, airy fabrics with a fluid drape.

RECOMMENDED FABRICS:

Lightweight fabrics with a fluid drape, such as rayon, viscose, crepe de chine, and silk chiffon. Lightweight fabrics with a less fluid drape, such as cotton lawn, cotton gauze, and tissue linen are also suitable and will create a more voluminous silhouette.

Sew Liberated Studio Tunic – The Studio Tunic is a pinafore-style tunic that takes layering to a whole new level.

Lots of photos with knitting projects in pockets.  

Like a dress/apron.  Really need to wear over something.

StyleArc Millicent Wrap Dress:  This is a wrap bodice with a ¾ circle skirt & tie closure.  I love the sleeves which are full but not gathered (this is your sleeve style, right Beverly?).  I’m pretty sure that this is drafted for a much taller body than I have so I’d need to adjust as usual at the waist and skirt for length.

Unleashed patterns: Embrace dress:  This is a knit dress.  There are so many options here:  cross over bodice, high scoop neck; three sleeves (waterfall, set in, flutter), two skirts (pencil, pencil with flutter).

Up to 84” hip.  I made the size 26 from top to bottom, so check out my pictures for how that looked.  I love the flutter on the skirt.  Other notes: testing is always a fun process.  The first tests, the flutter fell about 2” from the side seam – so on my size, it was a side flutter (the images provided showed it where it is on me in the final images).  You’ll want to consider where you want the flutter to go based on what you’d like for you – on smaller sizes, this may mean adjusting the pattern pieces.

Dragonfruit Dress: this CaramiyaMau dress is finally out. 

Sewing events or other crafty events where you go away for the weekend or longer and sew/knit/etc.  Also included are Frocktails events.  Shopping getaways?

TopStitchAtl: June retreat.  This one is sold out.  It was $1,800 for an individual queen bed cabin (no AC, but a fan) in the mountains in Georgia, USA.  The schedule looks amazing.  Highlights (I’m attending this one!) include – there’s also 5 hours on Thurs, Fri, Sat, for working on making your own jeans (if you paid extra for the Jean’s workshop, I didn’t).

:

June 8th

Wednesday

  • 5-6pm – Greetings, collect your goodie bag and settle in
  • 8-9pm – S’mores at the Farmhouse Firepit
    June 9th

Thursday

  • 9-10am – Morning Skills Demo with Nikki – seam finishing skills
  • 3-4pm – Nature walk around the Farmhouse Property
  • 8-9pm – Night swim or hot tub time

June 10th

Friday

  • 9-10am – Morning Skills Demo with Nikki – zipper skills
  • 12-1pm – Lunch at the Farmhouse
  • 3-4pm – Natural Dyeing Demo Part 1 with Brittani

June 11th

Saturday

  • 9-10am – Morning Skills Demo with Nikki – pressing skills
  • 3-4pm – Natural Dyeing Demo Part 2 with Brittani
  • 8-9:30pm – Undies making party with Nikki
  • 9:30pm – Hot tub or pool time for a last dip!

June 12th

Sunday

  • 9-10am – Pack and say farewell
  • 10am – Check out – feel free to continue exploring nearby for the day!

TopStitchAtl: Color weekend with Katie Kortman  : June 4 – 5 online.  Tickets are $149 & include Katie’s Wear Happy Color e-book and Wear Happy Color course, as well as the TopStitch Essential Shirt Pattern.  There are going to be live sessions, and recorded sessions available.  I’m attending this one pretty much entirely for the How to Paint Fabric session that will be live!

Here’s what we have planned for the weekend with you! 

Four main live sessions:

1. Fabric Painting Workshop: hand paint your very own fabric design

2. Sleeve Hacking Workshop: learn to hack a basic sleeve pattern three ways

3: Drafting Collars Workshop: learn how to draft a collar for an existing pattern or to stand alone

4. Live Q&A Session: ask Katie all about her experience on Project Runway!

Five video demonstrations recorded exclusively for this event:

1. Video demo: create your own buttons from scratch

2. Video demo: learn to jazz up your existing buttons with painted details

3. Video demo: learn to use embroidery to add fun detail to pockets, collars, and more

4. Video demo: learn how to add trim detail to a piece and how to make your own trim

5. Video demo: colorblocking a pattern 

The Sewing Weekender, May 21 – 22.  This is online only.  Tickets are about $25 US.  

Saturday Lineup

  • Jenny from Cashmerette shares her top 5 fitting tips. Everything from measuring yourself correctly to why bust cup options are a must.
  • Statement pockets: Juliet Uzor is here to show you how to customize your next make with a statement pocket or two!
  • DIY Skirt Tutorial: DIY Daisy is going to show you how to cut the incredible Sophie skirt from her new book ‘Sew it Yourself’. If you love a curved seam, then this is going to be right up your street.
  • Zips 101: Lisa from the Avid Seamstress is sharing how to insert different zips into your garments.
  • Geri from Geri in Stitches will show you how to get started with marble dying
  • Behind the Scenes: Meg from fabric shop Pigeon Wishes is sharing how she’s pivoted her business to serve indie fashion brands.
  • The Making of a Magazine: Have you ever wondered what goes into making a sewing pattern magazine? The lovely team at Fibre Mood are here to show us what’s involved.
  • Sustainable Fabrics: Harriet from Sew Me Sunshine is talking about what to look for when shopping sustainably for fabric.
  • Maria from Sew Organised Style is creating an exclusive podcast episode for the Weekender.
  • Sandy & Judith from #sewover50 are talking about sewing for changing body shapes.

Chatty Videos:

  • Tugba from @i.of.the.needle
  • Riccardo from @rifallo
  • Ele from @sewnbyele
  • Emily from @emilynatsai
  • Sara from @yoursara_k
  • Michelle from @michelle.a.sews

Sunday Lineup

  • Make Trousers that Fit with Alison Smith. Alison will talk us through some of the most common pattern alterations so you can achieve the perfect fit for your next trouser project.
  •  Alice and Co are back this year! ‘Sew you think you can’t draw?’ They are showing you that putting your design ideas down on paper makes them easier to realise.
  • Quilted Jacket Tutorial: Sam from Purple Sewing Cloud is here to show you how to add quilting techniques into your handmade wardrobe, by hacking a jacket pattern to add a quilted element. It will make you look at all your sewing patterns in a new way.
  • Adding Hand Embroidery into your Next Make. Alexis from Fibr and Cloth Studio is demonstrating some classic embroidery stitches and how you can apply these to your clothing.
  • Behind the Scenes: Grace who runs Beyond Measure gives us a sneak peak of her beautiful studio, how she works with artisans to create new products and gives us a tour of her new growing space where she is creating a garden for dying fabric.
  • Bust Adjustments: Mandi from Make With Mandi is here to show you how to do small and full bust adjustments on patterns.
  • Using your Sewing Wins to Plan your Future Makes with Jess from Muna and Broad
  • Styling your handmade Wardrobe: So you’ve made a load of stuff but how do you wear it together? Marie from Marie Stitched Up is here to talk about how she does it.
  • Charlotte from Charlotte Emma Patterns will be teaching you how to cut a sew a baseball cap with a downloadable PDF pattern.

Chatty Videos:

  • Mijke from @sewitcurly
  • Atia from @thebrightblooms
  • Georgie from @heysewgeorgie
  • Corrie from @corriesfancygoods
  • Jacinta from @pinkmimosabyjacinta
  • Jenny from @johassler

Ideas: travel to a class & stay overnight, shop meet others.  

I did this recently in the Raleigh Durham, NC area.  I met up with several sewists & we ate, went shopping (Mulberry Silks, Freeman’s Creative, Craft Habit Raleigh).  It was lots of fun!

  • Pick an area with several shops if possible (some cities have a garment district which can make this easy: Philadelia, NYC, LA, Atlanta)
  • Choose a local lunch place with good seating
  • Go out of town for a class, and bring friends along!
  • Connect with local sewists
    • Tag your plans with local sewing tags (example: CarrboroSews, AshevilleSews)
    • Reach out to community members you already know are from near that area
    • Plan a road trip with local to you sewists
    • Just introduce yourself while shopping and see who wants to join you for lunch

DC Frocktails was last night.  I was scheduled to go but couldn’t make it.  These events are good for folks that would like to get together with other sewists, but don’t want to make an overnight commitment.  They are events where people dress up a bit, there’s dancing, prizes, and meeting up with lots of other sewists. 

The weekend before last I went to Maryland Sheep and Wool, which is a huge festival of mostly hand-dyed gorgeous yarn.  I wish sewing had a similar thing.  I guess it would be much harder to do, as yarn is already bundled for purchase, but I would love it.  It’s an opportunity to go see lots of beautiful yarn that you normally don’t get to feel in person, and be around other fiber folks, but not really have to talk to them.  I go with a group of friends that I met through scrapbooking in 2007.  (I met them at a weekend event in Detroit!)

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64: Me Made May

Catch up:

Beverly – Well, since last we spoke, I didn’t sew much, but I did get engaged and went on a beautiful Puerto Rico vacation! If you are interested in this trip, please look at my instagram grid from Sunday, May 1 through Monday, May 2.  

I did make one thing.  Remember when I needed a plain, flowy top to go with the heavily patterned Closet Core Pietra Shorts I made? I remembered a #pfTNT pattern, the Style Arc Selina Woven top.  I have made three versions of that top now and I love it.  I am including a photo in the show notes of the top with those shorts.  It is a flowy top with ruffled sleeves and ruffle at the hem.  I made it in lightweight black broderie anglaise.  

Jenny:

I’ve made 5 Trillium Dress by Made by Rae since we last spoke I believe – two from Alison Glass yarn dyed woven cottons from Seams Fabric (citrus and pink/purple), one from a STOF quilting cotton (but a wide fabric) from Fabric.com by way of Amazon, one from a Tana Lawn by Liberty from Fabric.com, another check from fabric.com (wide), and finally the one I’m wearing while we record tonight: a linen hand dyed from my dyeing session in early April. IC 64

I also finished my wearable toile of the Ashton Top from a cotton woven (source unremembered).  I like it – but the next one I’ll make a size smaller since the most important fit point seems to be my upper chest.

Oh, and I finished up my Calder pants – and didn’t wear them for my volunteer activity.  I need to make a top to match, and then I can wear them out and about.

Me Made May: NEW PATTERN collection from Deer and Doe! https://blog.deer-and-doe.com/17210-announcing-the-spring-summer-2022-collection/

What is Me Made May?  What is it for?  Really good blog post from Zoe Edwards (@sozoblog on Instagram) – creator of #MeMadeMay

Sew Liberated – Got an email from Meg McElwee, the founder and designer for Sew Liberated saying that this year she’s breaking up with sustainable sewing.  Here’s a great blog post explaining why.

Jenny: 

#MeMadeMayFat #MeMadeMePlus ❤️ first things first: @sozoblog has a series of posts describing the purpose of the Me Made May challenge 🧡 my likely imperfect summary is that the goal is examine the place of #MeMadeClothjng in your wardrobe 💛 it’s a self reflective opportunity regarding your wardrobe, sustainability, and you 💚 it’s not specifically a making challenge 💙 I spent the last week or so going through the main hashtag a

nd finding very little of the body diversity I look for in a challenge 💙 I spent the last week or so going through the main hashtag and finding very little of the body diversity I look for in a challenge 💜 I felt overlooked in the same ways I did last year, the year before 🖤 I couldn’t find an endorsement of tags to help fat sewists be more visible 🤍 I won’t be following the main tag because I’m not feeling great about my feed being overrun by designs I can’t access because of my #BodaciousHips ❤️ I’ll be tagging my posts when appropriate so that I can be part of the what makes the fatness more visible 🧡 and I’ll follow the #fat and #plus versions of the tag to see what’s out there that was designed for me 

After posting this, I heard from dozens of other fat sewists who felt similarly.  Things that came up again and again were feelings of being left out, disappointment in the number of shared items were sizing wasn’t easy to find, but in the end, sizing also wasn’t inclusive, that the originating posts don’t in any way call in fat sewists (it always feels like we’re supposed to accept that since we make our own clothing, there’s no need for us to see ourselves represented – we can represent for ourselves if we just use our imaginations, or something).

Sewing for the Weekend natural dye episode

Dyeing with Turmeric

Another one – cold turmeric dyeing

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Episode 63: #pfSewNatural Intro

Sponsors

StyleArc – pattern

CaramiuyaMaui – pattern

Catch up:

Jenny:

I’ve picked my fabric for my #pfTNT Ashton by Helen’s Closet – I’ll be using a fabric printed with sewing pattern pieces & suchlike.

I’ve sewn up another Gilmore Skirt by Cashmerette.  This one is in a denim and the fabric is so wonderful in this pattern – great body & flow.  I’m sure I’ll make another in a different color denim.

I’m in the middle of a pair of Calder pants by Cashmerette from some canvas that I had printed.  These will be bold & fun – I hope i like them!

I also made the WILDEST Dragonfruit dress by CaramiyaMaui (not released) from a bright, large print, Ankara fabric.  I added pompoms in case it wasn’t bold enough.  I’m not sure I’m bold enough for it!

Coming up:  A Trillium by Made by Rae – with a full circle skirt!

Oh, oh!  And I made five pillow cases from 1.5 yards of cotton quilting fabric each.  Very basic – just measured a pillow, added some length, and went for it!

Beverly:  

Made by Rae Trillium – I made my #pfTNT of Jenny’s tnt.  I chose Black Brussels Washer linen.  I tried to use elastic in the bobbin and it was a fail.  Came out flat, didn’t gather.  Watched a few YouTube videos, called in #Jennyfixitforme, no avail.  Decided to zigzag in some ⅛” elastic. Did 4 rows of this and it looked very nice.  This part took me half the day to work out.  Then I made the dress pretty quickly.  I tried it on and the elastic irritated the hell out of me.  As I raise my arms, the dress naturally goes up a bit and then the elastic keeps it up so I have to pull it down.  Ugh.  Not for me.  Took the elastic out and I really love it.  I love how the capped sleeves look, but not how they keep my arms down.  

Beverly in her black trillium dress before removing the elastic in the back. The dress fits ok, but she’s not comfortable with the elastic. Removing it made it perfect!

Max tee by Chalk and Notch – this is a “muscle tee” and has both armhole and hemline facings.  It took me a while to make (2 hrs) and I worried I wouldn’t like it but I do!  Nice and roomy, comfy tee.

Reynolds dress by Helen’s Closet – so delighted with my second one!!!  This one is made in blue/grey linen (IL019) from Fabrics-store.com.  I widened the straps – added about 1.5” total, so half that for the strap width.  I took out the curve and seam in the back, cut on the fold.  I love it!  I also needed to change the under arm area.  I washed the first one and found it was still a bit gaped, so I cut out a wedge that was 1” at the armpit down to 0 about 6” down.  The pattern actually seems to have a triangle on the back at the armpit so it easy to change going forward.

Sew Liberated Nocturne Pajamas – I made my first version – the top as a nighty, using some Liberty Cotton Poplin that I got for ½ price several months ago.  I always planned it for sleepwear and this pattern is perfect.  I am so pleased with the fit of the shoulders but plan to alter back to top size and make shorts to match.  Not enough fabric for the shorts, but will accent with it so they match.  

#pfSewNatural

Our theme for May is NATURE! So excited to see how folks interpret this theme. 

Natural fibers

Naturally dyed fabrics

Naturally Dyed Fabrics – Loom and Stars

Dying fabric at home with natural dyes https://botanicalcolors.com/  This is what I plan to do!  Pillow cases!  So many pillowcases!

Fabrics with leaves/flowers/etc printed

Embroidered natural elements

Inspired by nature: color or shapes or silhouettes

New Patterns: 

Max Tee by Chalk and Notch: Do I need another tee pattern? It seems I do.  I don’t even know if I’m going to like it.  It’s a self-proclaimed muscle tee!  The version I have cut out is the hip length + 1 inch.  I lowered the neckline a bit and went for the typical tee neck binding.  It has a hem facing and also facing around the arm holes.  They call for tricot interfacing, but I have to draw the line somewhere.  

The Saguaro Set from Friday Pattern company

FIBREMOOD 19!

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62. #pfTNT Reveal

Next Month’s clue

Catch Up: 

Beverly:

Since we have last spoken, I haven’t actually sewed anything. BUT – I have three things cut out:

Helen’s Closet Reynold’s dress in blue/grey linen

MAde by Rae Trillium dress in Brussels Washer linen – black

The new tee-shirt from Chalk and Notch – Max tee – in burgundy modal/cotton/lycra blend from Stylemaker fabric.

I am drooling over this version of the Sew Liberated Nocturne PJ set:

Jenny:

  • My trillium from Seams fabric should be complete by now!  I hope!!
  • Finally got photos of my CrisWoodSews Daydream dress, and I’m making plans for a second one with a longer skirt, higher waist
  • Cut out my Ashton top with ruggle
  • Working on Fibr&Cloth Iris ZW shirt – but as a dress of course
  • Cut out a Sugar Maple skirt from Patterns 4 Pirates from fabric by JuliaCost (jersey knit)

New Patterns:

Jenny:

Can we talk ZW patterns? Low waste?


  • Self-draft a pleated skirt (pleat of any size to size of waist, add waistband, zipper. 

#pfTNT Call outs:

Beverly:

Madrabbitsociety – an old favorite made many times

https://www.instagram.com/p/Cb-efo1LzZW/

Sew.suse – a new TNT

https://www.instagram.com/p/CcDq_kVq9gx/

Bumblebunched: a new to me Instagram account.  I highly recommend their feed, linked here.

“I’m Vickie, a #sewist with a devil-may-care attitude to pressing seams! Follow 4 #plussizesewing #patternreviews & #diyweddingtips B:48 | W:45 | H:56”

Jenny:

Sara.fornia:  Using TNT Trillium to draft a dress for herself – it’s so TNT she’s using it as a block!

Criadera.creates:  Hope dress is a big, bold print as a maxi

SuperKaos6:  Billie dress! Love the contrast pocket linings

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Episode 61: TNT Fabric Stores

If you like this show and would like to help us keep making it, please go to patreon.com/punkfrockers to subscribe to our Patreon.

Thank you for our sponsors for April’s hashtag:

Helen’s Closet Code for a pattern

Elbe Textiles Free pattern

ThePlottedPattern Printing pattern & instructions

SeamsFabrics $50 gift card

Thanks for rating & reviewing us. Have a tip to share? Include it in your review & we’ll read it on a future episode!

Catch up:

Jenny:

Sorrento Bucket Hat, Elbe Textiles. From linen, lined with RBG quilting cotton

Photinia by Fibr & Cloth. Shirting fabric. Grey white stripes. My hack with 10” elastic front & back, starting 3” down from shoulder seams. 

Started my Trillium in fabric from Seams Fabric. 

Bias front bodice, skirt will have hem band cut cross grain. Adding sleeves from Sagebrush. 

DragonFruit, from naked lady fabric from Caramiya.  Shirt, ruffled hem.  Hell, yeah.

I’ve printed my Ashton. Planning a shirt with a ruffle, or a dress hack. Fabric still undecided. 

Beverly:

Closet Core Kalle Shirtdress – I made a second one using fabric I purchased from my local fabric store, Domesticity – which goes by @createdomesticity on Instagram.  It was the galaxy print from Ruby Star society.  This one I made 4 inches longer and it could actually be a little bit longer even (still above knees).  The only thing weird is that quilting cotton tends to grab anything under it that is also cotton.  

Pietra Shorts – made another pair of Pietra shorts, which is definitely a #pfTNT pattern for me.  I have now made 2 pairs of shorts and 3 pairs of the pants at least.  Nice folded pocket on them.  I used fabric from Mood for these, stretch cotton poplin.

Helen’s Closet Reynold’s Dress – I actually made a true toile of this one!  In fabric I don’t really like but was super cheap (discount shirting) and I didn’t do the interfacing or any seam finishes.  So quick!  The real version was made in fabrics-store.com IL019 softened biking red linen.  Love this pattern!  I already cut out another version in a blue/grey version of the same fabric.  Changes: Made the straps wider and changed the fit on the back. 

Got my printed Trillium Dress by Made by Rae in the mail, so I am all set to do Jenny’s TNT! Plan to use Brussels washer linen.

Jenny:

What counts as a local/global store?  Only tiny shops like Domesticity or also Mood? Anything not big box?

I crowdsourced a list of stores – DM me & I can add to it. 

I made a commitment to buy locally-globally in January. I thought this would be a good time to update on my progress. 

I’ve done a really great job of spreading out my buys across smaller, locally owned companies. I’m not actually directly tracking my buys – but am charting the source of my makes. I’ve used about 200 yards of fabric so far this year, from about 25 different sources. I’m slowing down my buys until I sew through my stash (likely for the next three or so months). I’ve found some favorites, of course. 

French terry: So sew English – ssefabrics

Silk noil: SaltLakeSewciety

Linen: Fabrics-store IL020

Quirky prints: Simplifi & Hello Friend Fabrics

Yarn dyed fabrics: Seams Fabric

Weird stuff: Warp & Weft Textiles, Letoffe fabrics 

High quality quilting: CreateDomesticity

Beverly:

I love my local Domesticity of course, but there are other local/global fabric stores that I like too.  Of course everyone who has listened to a couple of episodes knows that I love Stylemaker fabrics.  I have also purchased from Surge Fabrics – I’ve only purchased Merchant and Mills ribbing from them, but I have been very tempted by emails from them. 

I purchased beautiful Japanese fabrics from Nekoneko – located in Singapore. Shipping to the USA is 18 SGD, which is about $13 US.  Same for Europe and 19 for Australia/NZ. They have the most gorgeous Nani Iro, many japanese brands, Atelier Brunette, and Nerida Hansen.  

Blackbird fabrics is a Canadian small fabric store, owned by Caroline Somos. – Fabrics for “something special”

Seamwork’s list of the best fabric stores around the world .

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Episode 60: What is a tried and true pattern?

Helen’s Closet Code for a pattern

Elbe Textiles Free pattern

ThePlottedPattern Printing pattern & instructions

SeamsFabrics $50 gift card

Thanks for rating & reviewing us. Have a tip to share? Include it in your review & we’ll read it on a future episode!

Catch Up:

Jenny

Cashmerette Club pattern: Gilmore Skirt in IKEA vintage canvas  Is it too early for this to be #pfTNT?

Cashmerette Club pattern: As yet unreleased – can’t wait to show you this colorblocked amazingness

Trillium Dress: from Made by Rae. Quilting fabric by Ruby Star.  Facing on the outside, contrast color, with added pompon trim.  IT’S TOTALLY LOVE.  #pfTNT

I’ve not made much else, but have a lot cut out and ready to go.  I’m hoping to sew a lot this weekend.

I did order the Ashton top from Helen’s Closet and have plans for a dress.  In addition, I have another Trillium on the cutting table – this time from one of our sponsor’s this month, Seams Fabric.  I’ll be using a yarn dyed fabric they provided to make this version.  I’m still searching for the right trims to use with it – stay tuned.

I think I’ll make some more TNTs for me this month too:  Sagebrush, Chive, etc.

Beverly:

I completed my first #pfTNT project!  I made my beloved Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks as shorts.  I used Fabric-store.com softened 4C22 (heavy weight) linen, in the Auburn colorway

I think that weight/finish of fabric would be good for lots of projects requiring bottom-weight fabric.

I made my first Closet Core Kalle Shirt Dress using Brussels Washer Linen, ocean colorway. I LOVE this pattern. I have another one cut out and mostly finished using the Ruby Star Society Speckled fabric (108” wide) in Navy, that I purchased from Domesticity, here in Baltimore.  

How many do I have to make before it is a TNT???

I suppose it counts because it is a community TNT, but how many do you need to make before you consider a pattern TNT? I was wondering the same thing.  My Gilmore skirts will be TNT – I’m sure of it.  But I probably won’t have made more than a handful by the time the month is over.  

New Patterns: TAUKO TUESDAY!

First – I DM’s Tauko on IG to ask their naming protocol for pattern hashtags. They don’t have one and I suggested #tauko-nameofpattern – and they are going to talk about doing it!  Yay!

The first pattern I am drawn to is called SWING, and it’s very much a me pattern and not so much a Jenny pattern. Loose bodice, pleated skirt – sample is made in checked Merchant and MIlls linen – I think almost the exact same that Jenny bought me from Domesticity, only mine is pink/white.  The only thing I’m not as excited about is I think I already own very similar patterns – Sew Liberated Hinterland, the Merchant and Mills Ellis and Hattie dress (large size band small size band  is very similar and I think I like it better.

The next one is called VIOLET and it is a really interesting design.  

“The off-the-shoulder sleeves are created by making irregular knife pleats around the arm, and they’re the highlight of the design. The garment is constructed using an A-line base dress or a top that fits various body types.”

I love this and hope it’s available as a PDF pattern; I do not care to trace patterns, so this is my only path to it.  It’s super cute and I’d make an amazing dress out of it – of course!

The next one I like this the MALLOW, can be made as a long sleeved sweater or a short sleeved tee. 

“When designing the MALLOW sweater, Gaëlle wanted to create a cosy and accessible design, fitting for a large range of bodies – with a vintage twist. The patchwork details are a nod to the romantic imagery of the 1970s captured by the photographer Sarah moon. You can make the MALLOW sweater in two variations: long- sleeved and T-shirt-sleeved.”

Looks like bias binding on the bottom. Do I spy a little inverted triangle at the top, like on a RTW sweatshirt?

Both samples made in french terry.

The HELMI blouse draws from Victorian- inspired style influences. It’s a demure, understated take on the ruffles and ornamentation that define the style, but with enough flourish to catch the eye. Choose a Peter Pan collar or a stand collar and customize the level of frill you want to suit your style! If you’d like to add more detail to the Peter Pan collar, try adding trims to the seam at the collar’s edge.

This one is also Helmi but with different sleeves and collar. I prefer above.

The sleeves are outrageous in the best possible way!  I prefer the Peter Pan collar; again my barrier to entry is having to trace the patterns.  Fingers crossed for a PDF version of this one.  I’d subscribe in a heart beat if that was available for every pattern, every issue (like Fibremood).

— 

One final one I like is called the UNIFORM.  It reminds me of the type of long tunics that Indian men wear.  It is a plain dress, just below the knee with about 12” slits on the sides.  There is a popover placket that goes down about 12 inches from the top.  

I like the possibility I see in Melisse.  The high slit, the crossed back.  I’m interested to see the line art to understand if it’s right for me.

This dress has a drawstring waist, very high front lit, mid-calf skirt, with cross over, very open back.  It’s not hide-your-bra friendly, but seems lovely for an outfit where that’s something you embrace, or over a swimsuit this summer.

Jenny new patterns:

Grace dress by Patterns for Pirates 

Papercut patterns Estella Curve. Love this!! 

Not here yet, but I’m already looking forward to it: 

From the-sew-sew 

—-

#pfTNT recipes – since we put out a little joke for April Fool’s day about starting a new slow cooking podcast, we thought we would give folks a couple of our Tried and True recipes

Beverly: For a slow cooker – definitely my black bean soup.  You start with dry beans that cook on HIGH all day in just water.  Then you saute up some veggies and seasoning and add it to the beans. Very tried and very true.  REcipe in show notes.

Chipotle Citrus Black Bean Soup

From the kitchen of Beverly Baptiste, Serves 10

Ingredients………….…………

1 lb dried black beans

8 cups water

1 cup diced red bell pepper

1/2 cup sliced carrots

1/4 cup sliced celery

3 large cloves garlic, chopped

1/2 Tbs. cumin

can chopped

1 tsp salt

1 can roasted green chiles (4.5 oz)

1 Tbs. chipotle (or to taste)

Juice of one lime

1/2 cup orange juice

1 med onion, chopped

Directions…………..

Put washed beans into crockpot without soaking. Add water and cook on high for 7-8 hours.(Depending on your desired consistency, you can remove some water from the beans) Saute vegetables in some oil until softened to your liking. Add to crockpot with remaining ingredients. Serve on its own, or over brown rice. Delicious garnishes: sour cream, cilantro, cheddar cheese, salsa.

Next is one of my current faves – Linguine and Clams!  I love this NY Times recipe, but I have tried several that I love.  The one thing I like to add is fresh clams, but that’s mostly to be fancy.

My TNT recipe isn’t for the slow cooker, but it’s worth the time/effort required.

Beef Wellington for 2

I learned to make this at the start of the pandemic and it’s a favorite whenever the steak is on sale.  I don’t like mustard excepting on hamburgers & hotdogs, but love it here.  And I don’t generally do mushrooms but this convinced me they might be worthwhile.  So give it a go!

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Episode 59: #pfTNT

Thank you to all our Patreon subscribers!  We have added a new bonus episode available to all subscribers at or above Friends with Benefits and we are sending off a special little gift to first 20 our Friends with Gifts subscribers in April.  Go to patreon.com/punkfrockers to subscribe.

April sponsors: patterns from Elbe Textiles & Helen’s Closet; pattern printing by The Plotted Pattern, and a TBD from Seams Fabrics

Catch up:

Jenny:

  • A circle skirt in linen from Cashmerette as part of their new Club. 
  • Lola Victory Patterns Mulberry Silks Cotton knit Black white yellow with monkeys
  • Wattle Megan Neilsen Fabric.com Corduroy Red
  • Dragonfruit Caramiya Joann Cotton Eyelet Orange
  • Dragonfruit Caramiya Simplifi Fabrics Cotton Woven Orange planets
  • Dragonfruit Caramiya Fabric.com Double gauze Katie Kortman, blue + pink
  • Renee 5 out of 4 Simplifi Fabrics Cotton Woven Orange with cows

Beverly: I’ve been struggling!  My work has been hard and uncomfortable for me.  In general I like change, but I like to be in control… We went to NYC last weekend.  We went to Jutta Neumann shoes – for Jim to be measured/traced for custom sandals!  We walked all over the city.  We didn’t even take a subway while there.  On Sunday, Jim went for a drum lesson with Billy Martin from Medesky, Martin and Wood (Jazz) and I went fabric shopping.  This was a mistake – most of the shops are closed and none of the kind I like are open Sundays except M & J trimming.  Types of NYC fabric stores: organized with prices, disorganized and bartering.  Guess which kind I like.  

I did make one thing – I made it for the #SewFrugal22 challenge, organized by @frugalisama and @yorkshiresewgirl on Instagram.  I used the Peppermint Paddington Top (max size 58/51/61) and a stash fabric – rayon voile, navy background with radishes, peas, and onion plants as the print.  Off brand but I like it.  Alterations include: increased L by 2”, took out back buttons, increased elastic size to make arms loose.

New patterns:

True Bias Zoey Tank and Dress Pattern

Max size: 60/53/62

Marsha Style and Sew Lala collaboration : Alea Shirt and Dress

Max size 59/52/63

#pfTNT

#pfNaughty pile was a lot of work!  – emotionally! Who wants to go back to the trouble makers? We thought our listeners could use a break, so we decided to have a #pfTNT month!  This month, we are encouraging folks to choose a tried and true pattern to make.  You can use one of your own tried and true patterns or discover a favorite of someone else in the community by searching #tntpattern on Instagram.  

Beverly:

I plan to fully participate in this month’s theme!  In fact, I am going to choose at least one of my own TNT patterns and also one of Jenny’s!  

Ideas for my own:

Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks – I’ll probably make at least one pair of pants and another of shorts.

Helen’s Closet Ashton Top – I need some new tanks/short sleeved shirts for summer- perhaps combined with Elisabeth Suzanne Georgia tee – is it still tnt if hacked a new way?

Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress – I want a sleeveless version.

For Jenny’s (should I let Jenny decide???):

Fibermood Rosalie

Made by Rae Trillium

Would love the DragonFruit! But not released!!

Many of my favorites of Jenny’s are one-offs, not exactly TNTs

Any other suggestions, Jenny?

Jenny:

Trillium – I’ve made more than 60 in three years

Chive – I’m up to 20

Dragonfruit – over 15

Upton – a couple dozen

As part of Seams Fabric celebration of their anniversary this month, I’m making a Trillium from fabric they provided. I’ll start soon by doing a toile – and using elastic in my bobbin to shirr the back!!  I’m also planning to put the facing on the outside as in a recent Made by Rae post 

Sewing community favorites:

I’ve made three of these so far – only missing the Ogden. I’ll plan to make an Ogden this month. Max hip 59.5”

Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit max 57.5” hip

True Bias Ogden Cami max hip 59.5”

Friday Pattern Co Sagebrush Top max 60” chest/63” hip

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Episode 58: #pfNaughtyList Reveal

Next month’s clue:

This has been a tough one.  What have you done for it?

Jenny:

Naughty: I had some luck with naughtypile items this month.  First up:  I made an error in math (quick quiz:  what’s 71” divided in 2?  I bet you got something other than 30.5” – which is where I made my first mistake).  I made a lovely pink yard dyed check pattern CrisWoodSewsWaterfall dress – and it doesn’t fit at all.  I actually gave up on that one – it’s unrecoverable for me for my purpose – but dove right in again and made one from a Nerida Hansen check plaid.  I did the math correctly this time – yay for my CPA, lol.  This one hit the naughtypile due to the way that screwing up a pattern tends to make you stop making that pattern.  

Then there’s my CrisWoodSewsParasol whose bottom tier I finally finished.  We’ve talked about this one before.

Finally there’s my new DuplanierDress by Elbe Textiles.  I made this one but it wasn’t super wearable for me – too short.  I pulled it out of the closet and added a wide band at the hem and now it’s <chef’s kiss>.

Not Naughty: 

Not much, lol. I have so much cut and ready to go on my table, but so little actually finished.  I have big plans for this weekend!

Beverly:

Naughty:  First – and I can’t believe I haven’t talked about this make yet, but early in the month I made a Helen’s Closet March Dress using a rayon crepe, which is shifty as all hell, but what made it worthy of the Naughty Pile was the the directional print (plant stems with buds on them – slightly abstract, but clearly directional) were printed on the crossgrain, making cutting out the pattern really inconvenient!  But I did finish the dress and it’s a nice floaty version that I hope I’ll enjoy when it gets a little warmer.

Second is a #pfNaughtyList fail!  I tried to fix the RTW bathing suit I had and thought it would be a simple change of the neckline, but that change created all sorts of fit problems in the chest, including lots of gaping and puckers.  Boo!

The last one hardly counts, but as I was struggling to use shirting and quilting cottons – I used a very deep discount shirting fabric for a toile and some quilting cotton for shorts for Jim.

Not Naughty: My first Ogden Cami by True Bias.  This is a popular pattern in the sewing community and I can’t believe I’ve only made one.  I immediately made the straps larger to at least attempt to cover bra straps and also don’t want to turn out a skinny strap.  I’ll make my next one a bit smaller.

New Patterns:

S9540!!!(I would link to the actual pattern but can’t find it, maybe not yet avail?) Aaronica @needleandthebelle is on the cover of the pattern, looking fantastic!  Pattern is for a top and skirt that show some belly and an above the knee long sleeved (wrap?) dress.  Both look FAB on her.

Tilly and the Buttons Erin Dungarees – these are roomy overalls with knot ties in the front.  They also have those pockets that Jenny likes that are built into the waist.  

Style Arc Trinni Woven Dress – will I love it or hate it on me?  Will need to be a little shorter I think.  How hard will it be to lower that neckline given the detail on it? Lowering the neckline with the gathered front & neckband may be more complicated – depends on how it’s been designed, and how flat you want it to lay.  The high neck with facing would be easy to lower.

New Closet Core Chez Moi Collection

This is a collection of undies, bralettes, slips, robes, and bundles are available to take advantage of group discount.  

The size range is 0-32, ending in a max size of 60/53/63

Fabrics suitable for this collection are available at Core Fabrics 

I love the slip & robe here.  So lovely!

Thea Pleated Top from Made for Mermaids

  •  Made for knit fabrics.
  • • Pleated front bodice with a shaped front waistband.
  • • 3 neckline options: high scoop, low scoop, or mock turtleneck.
  • • 2 back bodice options: solid or peek-a-boo.
  • • Both back options have a center seam.
  • • The peek-a-boo back has a tie waistband and the solid back has a solid waistband.
  • • 5 sleeve options: sleeveless, flutter, cap, short, and long.
  • • Neckline and sleeveless options are finished with knit binding.
  • • The top hits at the high hips.
  • • Detailed, precise instructions with full-color photos.
  • • Includes videos.
  • • YouTube Video Thea Playlist can be found HERE.

Sizes (includes both imperial and metric measurements):

  • •Fits upper bust sizes 31″-53″ or 78.7-134.6 cm
  • •Fits full bust sizes 30″-60″ or 76.2-153.4 cm
  • •Fits high hip sizes: 29″-63″ or 73.6-160 cm.

#pfNaughtyList #pfNaughtyPile

Beverly’s Call Outs:

  1. Sewingwithcats: Naughty because of neglected fabric
  1. Tandarady – fixed a dress that she wasn’t wearing because of pattern matching that she didn’t like

  1. Stringthing – unintentional naughtylist – Jan 2021 made a toile and threw it in naughty pile because she was dissatisfied with it. Recently looked at the photos and couldn’t see what was wrong so she tried them on and they fit great!  Easiest Naughtylist transformation ever!

Jenny:

  1. JamillaSinger: Wanted comfy joggers, but took forever to take the plunge. The result is adorable & matched with a great Grover tee!

DetroyIt: Wool blend fabric that wasn’t a favorite – never finished.  Still languishing on the Naughty Pile.  

Somebody_Or_Others_mom Got stalled on elastic cuffs, and buttonholes.  Lori & I sew together some Saturday mornings – and on one of those, she pulled out her buttonhole tool & made it happen.  Great job!

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Episode 57: New Patterns!

Catch up:

Jenny:

I’ve been really focused on sewing for #SewHappyColor & #pfNaughtyPile, as well as starting to sew through fabrics I picked up on my travels. 

  • I finally finished up my CWS parasol – adding another 7 linear yards of the final tier. It’s a three tier skirt added to the Parasol bodice. So so swishy. 
  • My wiggle dress is another that belonged on the naughty pile – because of the terrible drafting. Someone sent this to me so I could see if the drafting was improved enough to be wearable: spoiler alert – it isn’t without significant mods. 
  • Sew house seven Elemental Skirt FREE pattern – great size inclusive option for #SewFrugal – for details on this challenge, go to @frugalisima or @yorkshiresewgirl on Instagram

I went Dragonfruit-happy for #SewHappyColor – these are some of my favorite dresses ever. EVER. 

And – if you can believe it – I made two tops for a grandchild. On purpose. 😂

Sixteen makes so far in March. As of 16Mar2022!

Beverly:

Georgia Tee by Elisabeth Suzann and Florence pants by Elisabeth Suzann

I made the tee in a dark navy linen from Fabrics-store.com and the pants with Brussels Washer Linen in tan/brown.

This is a fun and swishy outfit, very comfy for work. For folks like me, tall, but mostly tall in legs, I recommend not choosing the “tall” version of the pattern.  As is true with many RTW brands, the tall version of the pattern is drafted for a lot more crotch depth, as probably many tall folks need that.  I am also planning to size down.  I used the size that corresponded to my waist measurement, but the hip measurement puts me a size smaller and they are elastic waist pants.  

I decided to try making the Sew House Seven Free Range slacks as shorts. I love that pattern and wanted to do something with some Alexander Henry quilting cotton that I think I got from Seams Fabric.  So I did use some quilting cotton!

I have also made a toile for my Closet Core Charlie Caftan.  I used some deep discount shirting fabric for it.  If it fits ok, I will use it as a beach cover up because I didn;t lengthen so it’s almost certainly too short. Thoughts:  The little rectangle panel seems needlessly difficult seeing as it’s really just for looks.  Also, I didn’t know the folded parts in front were a dart!  Did I do the darts on the wrong side?  Have some other folks just folded it over instead of sewing down the dart?  What did you do?  The top darts I stitched, the bottom folded. If I make this again I’ll do the gathered version. 

After I get sizing right, I want to make a few in linen for summer.

Merchant and Mills Factory Dress – large size band, small size band 

Shirt Hack post

New Patterns:

By Hand London Flora Dress– new and improved sizing! Up to 68” hip

I tested this one! I love it. My next one I may extend the length of the back of the skirt to make a more obvious hi-lo hem.

Grainline scout tee- smaller size band, larger size band – added another size up to 32 now (61” hip) and the Grainline Tamarack (is this newly expanded sizing?)

Liz Haywood Zero Waste Culottes – up to 64” hips – very curious how you make ZW culottes!

Her website shows a variety of different bodies in the culottes, including a man.

Megan Neilsen Wattle Skirt. Up to 62” hip. 

Wattle is a set of classic skirts with unique crossover closure at the side seam. Pattern sits on the natural waist and features hidden closure at the left pocket, three skirt options, slash pockets, two waistband options and multiple lengths. I plan to make the midi bias skirt with button closure, and the gathered knee length with tie closure. 

Curvy classic dress. Up to 80” hip

The Haywood Blazer. Up to 63.5” hip

the Heywood Blazer sewing pattern is all gorgeous statement sleeves and sleek lines. With no closures to worry about, this pattern is simple to sew and even easier to style.

Muna & Broad Hyde. Will grade up to any size exceeding their existing size. Max 71.5” hip in existing sizing. 

The Hyde T-Shirt is a loose fitting knit top for effortless and easy dressing. The silhouette is boxy and designed to fit the body beautifully.

Both views feature a loose, comfy fit and a dropped shoulder. View B features an envelope back that is also an accessibility feature. The straight hemlines make this pattern perfect for stripes and we have drafted the neckband with our no-fuss application.

Victory Patterns Lola sweater dress. Up to 60” hips – starting this sooooon. 

Iris ZW blouse by Fibr&Cloth