Episode 63: #pfSewNatural Intro


StyleArc – pattern

CaramiuyaMaui – pattern

Catch up:


I’ve picked my fabric for my #pfTNT Ashton by Helen’s Closet – I’ll be using a fabric printed with sewing pattern pieces & suchlike.

I’ve sewn up another Gilmore Skirt by Cashmerette.  This one is in a denim and the fabric is so wonderful in this pattern – great body & flow.  I’m sure I’ll make another in a different color denim.

I’m in the middle of a pair of Calder pants by Cashmerette from some canvas that I had printed.  These will be bold & fun – I hope i like them!

I also made the WILDEST Dragonfruit dress by CaramiyaMaui (not released) from a bright, large print, Ankara fabric.  I added pompoms in case it wasn’t bold enough.  I’m not sure I’m bold enough for it!

Coming up:  A Trillium by Made by Rae – with a full circle skirt!

Oh, oh!  And I made five pillow cases from 1.5 yards of cotton quilting fabric each.  Very basic – just measured a pillow, added some length, and went for it!


Made by Rae Trillium – I made my #pfTNT of Jenny’s tnt.  I chose Black Brussels Washer linen.  I tried to use elastic in the bobbin and it was a fail.  Came out flat, didn’t gather.  Watched a few YouTube videos, called in #Jennyfixitforme, no avail.  Decided to zigzag in some ⅛” elastic. Did 4 rows of this and it looked very nice.  This part took me half the day to work out.  Then I made the dress pretty quickly.  I tried it on and the elastic irritated the hell out of me.  As I raise my arms, the dress naturally goes up a bit and then the elastic keeps it up so I have to pull it down.  Ugh.  Not for me.  Took the elastic out and I really love it.  I love how the capped sleeves look, but not how they keep my arms down.  

Beverly in her black trillium dress before removing the elastic in the back. The dress fits ok, but she’s not comfortable with the elastic. Removing it made it perfect!

Max tee by Chalk and Notch – this is a “muscle tee” and has both armhole and hemline facings.  It took me a while to make (2 hrs) and I worried I wouldn’t like it but I do!  Nice and roomy, comfy tee.

Reynolds dress by Helen’s Closet – so delighted with my second one!!!  This one is made in blue/grey linen (IL019) from  I widened the straps – added about 1.5” total, so half that for the strap width.  I took out the curve and seam in the back, cut on the fold.  I love it!  I also needed to change the under arm area.  I washed the first one and found it was still a bit gaped, so I cut out a wedge that was 1” at the armpit down to 0 about 6” down.  The pattern actually seems to have a triangle on the back at the armpit so it easy to change going forward.

Sew Liberated Nocturne Pajamas – I made my first version – the top as a nighty, using some Liberty Cotton Poplin that I got for ½ price several months ago.  I always planned it for sleepwear and this pattern is perfect.  I am so pleased with the fit of the shoulders but plan to alter back to top size and make shorts to match.  Not enough fabric for the shorts, but will accent with it so they match.  


Our theme for May is NATURE! So excited to see how folks interpret this theme. 

Natural fibers

Naturally dyed fabrics

Naturally Dyed Fabrics – Loom and Stars

Dying fabric at home with natural dyes  This is what I plan to do!  Pillow cases!  So many pillowcases!

Fabrics with leaves/flowers/etc printed

Embroidered natural elements

Inspired by nature: color or shapes or silhouettes

New Patterns: 

Max Tee by Chalk and Notch: Do I need another tee pattern? It seems I do.  I don’t even know if I’m going to like it.  It’s a self-proclaimed muscle tee!  The version I have cut out is the hip length + 1 inch.  I lowered the neckline a bit and went for the typical tee neck binding.  It has a hem facing and also facing around the arm holes.  They call for tricot interfacing, but I have to draw the line somewhere.  

The Saguaro Set from Friday Pattern company



62. #pfTNT Reveal

Next Month’s clue

Catch Up: 


Since we have last spoken, I haven’t actually sewed anything. BUT – I have three things cut out:

Helen’s Closet Reynold’s dress in blue/grey linen

MAde by Rae Trillium dress in Brussels Washer linen – black

The new tee-shirt from Chalk and Notch – Max tee – in burgundy modal/cotton/lycra blend from Stylemaker fabric.

I am drooling over this version of the Sew Liberated Nocturne PJ set:


  • My trillium from Seams fabric should be complete by now!  I hope!!
  • Finally got photos of my CrisWoodSews Daydream dress, and I’m making plans for a second one with a longer skirt, higher waist
  • Cut out my Ashton top with ruggle
  • Working on Fibr&Cloth Iris ZW shirt – but as a dress of course
  • Cut out a Sugar Maple skirt from Patterns 4 Pirates from fabric by JuliaCost (jersey knit)

New Patterns:


Can we talk ZW patterns? Low waste?

  • Self-draft a pleated skirt (pleat of any size to size of waist, add waistband, zipper. 

#pfTNT Call outs:


Madrabbitsociety – an old favorite made many times

Sew.suse – a new TNT

Bumblebunched: a new to me Instagram account.  I highly recommend their feed, linked here.

“I’m Vickie, a #sewist with a devil-may-care attitude to pressing seams! Follow 4 #plussizesewing #patternreviews & #diyweddingtips B:48 | W:45 | H:56”


Sara.fornia:  Using TNT Trillium to draft a dress for herself – it’s so TNT she’s using it as a block!

Criadera.creates:  Hope dress is a big, bold print as a maxi

SuperKaos6:  Billie dress! Love the contrast pocket linings


Episode 61: TNT Fabric Stores

If you like this show and would like to help us keep making it, please go to to subscribe to our Patreon.

Thank you for our sponsors for April’s hashtag:

Helen’s Closet Code for a pattern

Elbe Textiles Free pattern

ThePlottedPattern Printing pattern & instructions

SeamsFabrics $50 gift card

Thanks for rating & reviewing us. Have a tip to share? Include it in your review & we’ll read it on a future episode!

Catch up:


Sorrento Bucket Hat, Elbe Textiles. From linen, lined with RBG quilting cotton

Photinia by Fibr & Cloth. Shirting fabric. Grey white stripes. My hack with 10” elastic front & back, starting 3” down from shoulder seams. 

Started my Trillium in fabric from Seams Fabric. 

Bias front bodice, skirt will have hem band cut cross grain. Adding sleeves from Sagebrush. 

DragonFruit, from naked lady fabric from Caramiya.  Shirt, ruffled hem.  Hell, yeah.

I’ve printed my Ashton. Planning a shirt with a ruffle, or a dress hack. Fabric still undecided. 


Closet Core Kalle Shirtdress – I made a second one using fabric I purchased from my local fabric store, Domesticity – which goes by @createdomesticity on Instagram.  It was the galaxy print from Ruby Star society.  This one I made 4 inches longer and it could actually be a little bit longer even (still above knees).  The only thing weird is that quilting cotton tends to grab anything under it that is also cotton.  

Pietra Shorts – made another pair of Pietra shorts, which is definitely a #pfTNT pattern for me.  I have now made 2 pairs of shorts and 3 pairs of the pants at least.  Nice folded pocket on them.  I used fabric from Mood for these, stretch cotton poplin.

Helen’s Closet Reynold’s Dress – I actually made a true toile of this one!  In fabric I don’t really like but was super cheap (discount shirting) and I didn’t do the interfacing or any seam finishes.  So quick!  The real version was made in IL019 softened biking red linen.  Love this pattern!  I already cut out another version in a blue/grey version of the same fabric.  Changes: Made the straps wider and changed the fit on the back. 

Got my printed Trillium Dress by Made by Rae in the mail, so I am all set to do Jenny’s TNT! Plan to use Brussels washer linen.


What counts as a local/global store?  Only tiny shops like Domesticity or also Mood? Anything not big box?

I crowdsourced a list of stores – DM me & I can add to it. 

I made a commitment to buy locally-globally in January. I thought this would be a good time to update on my progress. 

I’ve done a really great job of spreading out my buys across smaller, locally owned companies. I’m not actually directly tracking my buys – but am charting the source of my makes. I’ve used about 200 yards of fabric so far this year, from about 25 different sources. I’m slowing down my buys until I sew through my stash (likely for the next three or so months). I’ve found some favorites, of course. 

French terry: So sew English – ssefabrics

Silk noil: SaltLakeSewciety

Linen: Fabrics-store IL020

Quirky prints: Simplifi & Hello Friend Fabrics

Yarn dyed fabrics: Seams Fabric

Weird stuff: Warp & Weft Textiles, Letoffe fabrics 

High quality quilting: CreateDomesticity


I love my local Domesticity of course, but there are other local/global fabric stores that I like too.  Of course everyone who has listened to a couple of episodes knows that I love Stylemaker fabrics.  I have also purchased from Surge Fabrics – I’ve only purchased Merchant and Mills ribbing from them, but I have been very tempted by emails from them. 

I purchased beautiful Japanese fabrics from Nekoneko – located in Singapore. Shipping to the USA is 18 SGD, which is about $13 US.  Same for Europe and 19 for Australia/NZ. They have the most gorgeous Nani Iro, many japanese brands, Atelier Brunette, and Nerida Hansen.  

Blackbird fabrics is a Canadian small fabric store, owned by Caroline Somos. – Fabrics for “something special”

Seamwork’s list of the best fabric stores around the world .


Episode 60: What is a tried and true pattern?

Helen’s Closet Code for a pattern

Elbe Textiles Free pattern

ThePlottedPattern Printing pattern & instructions

SeamsFabrics $50 gift card

Thanks for rating & reviewing us. Have a tip to share? Include it in your review & we’ll read it on a future episode!

Catch Up:


Cashmerette Club pattern: Gilmore Skirt in IKEA vintage canvas  Is it too early for this to be #pfTNT?

Cashmerette Club pattern: As yet unreleased – can’t wait to show you this colorblocked amazingness

Trillium Dress: from Made by Rae. Quilting fabric by Ruby Star.  Facing on the outside, contrast color, with added pompon trim.  IT’S TOTALLY LOVE.  #pfTNT

I’ve not made much else, but have a lot cut out and ready to go.  I’m hoping to sew a lot this weekend.

I did order the Ashton top from Helen’s Closet and have plans for a dress.  In addition, I have another Trillium on the cutting table – this time from one of our sponsor’s this month, Seams Fabric.  I’ll be using a yarn dyed fabric they provided to make this version.  I’m still searching for the right trims to use with it – stay tuned.

I think I’ll make some more TNTs for me this month too:  Sagebrush, Chive, etc.


I completed my first #pfTNT project!  I made my beloved Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks as shorts.  I used softened 4C22 (heavy weight) linen, in the Auburn colorway

I think that weight/finish of fabric would be good for lots of projects requiring bottom-weight fabric.

I made my first Closet Core Kalle Shirt Dress using Brussels Washer Linen, ocean colorway. I LOVE this pattern. I have another one cut out and mostly finished using the Ruby Star Society Speckled fabric (108” wide) in Navy, that I purchased from Domesticity, here in Baltimore.  

How many do I have to make before it is a TNT???

I suppose it counts because it is a community TNT, but how many do you need to make before you consider a pattern TNT? I was wondering the same thing.  My Gilmore skirts will be TNT – I’m sure of it.  But I probably won’t have made more than a handful by the time the month is over.  

New Patterns: TAUKO TUESDAY!

First – I DM’s Tauko on IG to ask their naming protocol for pattern hashtags. They don’t have one and I suggested #tauko-nameofpattern – and they are going to talk about doing it!  Yay!

The first pattern I am drawn to is called SWING, and it’s very much a me pattern and not so much a Jenny pattern. Loose bodice, pleated skirt – sample is made in checked Merchant and MIlls linen – I think almost the exact same that Jenny bought me from Domesticity, only mine is pink/white.  The only thing I’m not as excited about is I think I already own very similar patterns – Sew Liberated Hinterland, the Merchant and Mills Ellis and Hattie dress (large size band small size band  is very similar and I think I like it better.

The next one is called VIOLET and it is a really interesting design.  

“The off-the-shoulder sleeves are created by making irregular knife pleats around the arm, and they’re the highlight of the design. The garment is constructed using an A-line base dress or a top that fits various body types.”

I love this and hope it’s available as a PDF pattern; I do not care to trace patterns, so this is my only path to it.  It’s super cute and I’d make an amazing dress out of it – of course!

The next one I like this the MALLOW, can be made as a long sleeved sweater or a short sleeved tee. 

“When designing the MALLOW sweater, Gaëlle wanted to create a cosy and accessible design, fitting for a large range of bodies – with a vintage twist. The patchwork details are a nod to the romantic imagery of the 1970s captured by the photographer Sarah moon. You can make the MALLOW sweater in two variations: long- sleeved and T-shirt-sleeved.”

Looks like bias binding on the bottom. Do I spy a little inverted triangle at the top, like on a RTW sweatshirt?

Both samples made in french terry.

The HELMI blouse draws from Victorian- inspired style influences. It’s a demure, understated take on the ruffles and ornamentation that define the style, but with enough flourish to catch the eye. Choose a Peter Pan collar or a stand collar and customize the level of frill you want to suit your style! If you’d like to add more detail to the Peter Pan collar, try adding trims to the seam at the collar’s edge.

This one is also Helmi but with different sleeves and collar. I prefer above.

The sleeves are outrageous in the best possible way!  I prefer the Peter Pan collar; again my barrier to entry is having to trace the patterns.  Fingers crossed for a PDF version of this one.  I’d subscribe in a heart beat if that was available for every pattern, every issue (like Fibremood).


One final one I like is called the UNIFORM.  It reminds me of the type of long tunics that Indian men wear.  It is a plain dress, just below the knee with about 12” slits on the sides.  There is a popover placket that goes down about 12 inches from the top.  

I like the possibility I see in Melisse.  The high slit, the crossed back.  I’m interested to see the line art to understand if it’s right for me.

This dress has a drawstring waist, very high front lit, mid-calf skirt, with cross over, very open back.  It’s not hide-your-bra friendly, but seems lovely for an outfit where that’s something you embrace, or over a swimsuit this summer.

Jenny new patterns:

Grace dress by Patterns for Pirates 

Papercut patterns Estella Curve. Love this!! 

Not here yet, but I’m already looking forward to it: 

From the-sew-sew 


#pfTNT recipes – since we put out a little joke for April Fool’s day about starting a new slow cooking podcast, we thought we would give folks a couple of our Tried and True recipes

Beverly: For a slow cooker – definitely my black bean soup.  You start with dry beans that cook on HIGH all day in just water.  Then you saute up some veggies and seasoning and add it to the beans. Very tried and very true.  REcipe in show notes.

Chipotle Citrus Black Bean Soup

From the kitchen of Beverly Baptiste, Serves 10


1 lb dried black beans

8 cups water

1 cup diced red bell pepper

1/2 cup sliced carrots

1/4 cup sliced celery

3 large cloves garlic, chopped

1/2 Tbs. cumin

can chopped

1 tsp salt

1 can roasted green chiles (4.5 oz)

1 Tbs. chipotle (or to taste)

Juice of one lime

1/2 cup orange juice

1 med onion, chopped


Put washed beans into crockpot without soaking. Add water and cook on high for 7-8 hours.(Depending on your desired consistency, you can remove some water from the beans) Saute vegetables in some oil until softened to your liking. Add to crockpot with remaining ingredients. Serve on its own, or over brown rice. Delicious garnishes: sour cream, cilantro, cheddar cheese, salsa.

Next is one of my current faves – Linguine and Clams!  I love this NY Times recipe, but I have tried several that I love.  The one thing I like to add is fresh clams, but that’s mostly to be fancy.

My TNT recipe isn’t for the slow cooker, but it’s worth the time/effort required.

Beef Wellington for 2

I learned to make this at the start of the pandemic and it’s a favorite whenever the steak is on sale.  I don’t like mustard excepting on hamburgers & hotdogs, but love it here.  And I don’t generally do mushrooms but this convinced me they might be worthwhile.  So give it a go!


Episode 59: #pfTNT

Thank you to all our Patreon subscribers!  We have added a new bonus episode available to all subscribers at or above Friends with Benefits and we are sending off a special little gift to first 20 our Friends with Gifts subscribers in April.  Go to to subscribe.

April sponsors: patterns from Elbe Textiles & Helen’s Closet; pattern printing by The Plotted Pattern, and a TBD from Seams Fabrics

Catch up:


  • A circle skirt in linen from Cashmerette as part of their new Club. 
  • Lola Victory Patterns Mulberry Silks Cotton knit Black white yellow with monkeys
  • Wattle Megan Neilsen Corduroy Red
  • Dragonfruit Caramiya Joann Cotton Eyelet Orange
  • Dragonfruit Caramiya Simplifi Fabrics Cotton Woven Orange planets
  • Dragonfruit Caramiya Double gauze Katie Kortman, blue + pink
  • Renee 5 out of 4 Simplifi Fabrics Cotton Woven Orange with cows

Beverly: I’ve been struggling!  My work has been hard and uncomfortable for me.  In general I like change, but I like to be in control… We went to NYC last weekend.  We went to Jutta Neumann shoes – for Jim to be measured/traced for custom sandals!  We walked all over the city.  We didn’t even take a subway while there.  On Sunday, Jim went for a drum lesson with Billy Martin from Medesky, Martin and Wood (Jazz) and I went fabric shopping.  This was a mistake – most of the shops are closed and none of the kind I like are open Sundays except M & J trimming.  Types of NYC fabric stores: organized with prices, disorganized and bartering.  Guess which kind I like.  

I did make one thing – I made it for the #SewFrugal22 challenge, organized by @frugalisama and @yorkshiresewgirl on Instagram.  I used the Peppermint Paddington Top (max size 58/51/61) and a stash fabric – rayon voile, navy background with radishes, peas, and onion plants as the print.  Off brand but I like it.  Alterations include: increased L by 2”, took out back buttons, increased elastic size to make arms loose.

New patterns:

True Bias Zoey Tank and Dress Pattern

Max size: 60/53/62

Marsha Style and Sew Lala collaboration : Alea Shirt and Dress

Max size 59/52/63


#pfNaughty pile was a lot of work!  – emotionally! Who wants to go back to the trouble makers? We thought our listeners could use a break, so we decided to have a #pfTNT month!  This month, we are encouraging folks to choose a tried and true pattern to make.  You can use one of your own tried and true patterns or discover a favorite of someone else in the community by searching #tntpattern on Instagram.  


I plan to fully participate in this month’s theme!  In fact, I am going to choose at least one of my own TNT patterns and also one of Jenny’s!  

Ideas for my own:

Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks – I’ll probably make at least one pair of pants and another of shorts.

Helen’s Closet Ashton Top – I need some new tanks/short sleeved shirts for summer- perhaps combined with Elisabeth Suzanne Georgia tee – is it still tnt if hacked a new way?

Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress – I want a sleeveless version.

For Jenny’s (should I let Jenny decide???):

Fibermood Rosalie

Made by Rae Trillium

Would love the DragonFruit! But not released!!

Many of my favorites of Jenny’s are one-offs, not exactly TNTs

Any other suggestions, Jenny?


Trillium – I’ve made more than 60 in three years

Chive – I’m up to 20

Dragonfruit – over 15

Upton – a couple dozen

As part of Seams Fabric celebration of their anniversary this month, I’m making a Trillium from fabric they provided. I’ll start soon by doing a toile – and using elastic in my bobbin to shirr the back!!  I’m also planning to put the facing on the outside as in a recent Made by Rae post 

Sewing community favorites:

I’ve made three of these so far – only missing the Ogden. I’ll plan to make an Ogden this month. Max hip 59.5”

Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit max 57.5” hip

True Bias Ogden Cami max hip 59.5”

Friday Pattern Co Sagebrush Top max 60” chest/63” hip


Episode 58: #pfNaughtyList Reveal

Next month’s clue:

This has been a tough one.  What have you done for it?


Naughty: I had some luck with naughtypile items this month.  First up:  I made an error in math (quick quiz:  what’s 71” divided in 2?  I bet you got something other than 30.5” – which is where I made my first mistake).  I made a lovely pink yard dyed check pattern CrisWoodSewsWaterfall dress – and it doesn’t fit at all.  I actually gave up on that one – it’s unrecoverable for me for my purpose – but dove right in again and made one from a Nerida Hansen check plaid.  I did the math correctly this time – yay for my CPA, lol.  This one hit the naughtypile due to the way that screwing up a pattern tends to make you stop making that pattern.  

Then there’s my CrisWoodSewsParasol whose bottom tier I finally finished.  We’ve talked about this one before.

Finally there’s my new DuplanierDress by Elbe Textiles.  I made this one but it wasn’t super wearable for me – too short.  I pulled it out of the closet and added a wide band at the hem and now it’s <chef’s kiss>.

Not Naughty: 

Not much, lol. I have so much cut and ready to go on my table, but so little actually finished.  I have big plans for this weekend!


Naughty:  First – and I can’t believe I haven’t talked about this make yet, but early in the month I made a Helen’s Closet March Dress using a rayon crepe, which is shifty as all hell, but what made it worthy of the Naughty Pile was the the directional print (plant stems with buds on them – slightly abstract, but clearly directional) were printed on the crossgrain, making cutting out the pattern really inconvenient!  But I did finish the dress and it’s a nice floaty version that I hope I’ll enjoy when it gets a little warmer.

Second is a #pfNaughtyList fail!  I tried to fix the RTW bathing suit I had and thought it would be a simple change of the neckline, but that change created all sorts of fit problems in the chest, including lots of gaping and puckers.  Boo!

The last one hardly counts, but as I was struggling to use shirting and quilting cottons – I used a very deep discount shirting fabric for a toile and some quilting cotton for shorts for Jim.

Not Naughty: My first Ogden Cami by True Bias.  This is a popular pattern in the sewing community and I can’t believe I’ve only made one.  I immediately made the straps larger to at least attempt to cover bra straps and also don’t want to turn out a skinny strap.  I’ll make my next one a bit smaller.

New Patterns:

S9540!!!(I would link to the actual pattern but can’t find it, maybe not yet avail?) Aaronica @needleandthebelle is on the cover of the pattern, looking fantastic!  Pattern is for a top and skirt that show some belly and an above the knee long sleeved (wrap?) dress.  Both look FAB on her.

Tilly and the Buttons Erin Dungarees – these are roomy overalls with knot ties in the front.  They also have those pockets that Jenny likes that are built into the waist.  

Style Arc Trinni Woven Dress – will I love it or hate it on me?  Will need to be a little shorter I think.  How hard will it be to lower that neckline given the detail on it? Lowering the neckline with the gathered front & neckband may be more complicated – depends on how it’s been designed, and how flat you want it to lay.  The high neck with facing would be easy to lower.

New Closet Core Chez Moi Collection

This is a collection of undies, bralettes, slips, robes, and bundles are available to take advantage of group discount.  

The size range is 0-32, ending in a max size of 60/53/63

Fabrics suitable for this collection are available at Core Fabrics 

I love the slip & robe here.  So lovely!

Thea Pleated Top from Made for Mermaids

  •  Made for knit fabrics.
  • • Pleated front bodice with a shaped front waistband.
  • • 3 neckline options: high scoop, low scoop, or mock turtleneck.
  • • 2 back bodice options: solid or peek-a-boo.
  • • Both back options have a center seam.
  • • The peek-a-boo back has a tie waistband and the solid back has a solid waistband.
  • • 5 sleeve options: sleeveless, flutter, cap, short, and long.
  • • Neckline and sleeveless options are finished with knit binding.
  • • The top hits at the high hips.
  • • Detailed, precise instructions with full-color photos.
  • • Includes videos.
  • • YouTube Video Thea Playlist can be found HERE.

Sizes (includes both imperial and metric measurements):

  • •Fits upper bust sizes 31″-53″ or 78.7-134.6 cm
  • •Fits full bust sizes 30″-60″ or 76.2-153.4 cm
  • •Fits high hip sizes: 29″-63″ or 73.6-160 cm.

#pfNaughtyList #pfNaughtyPile

Beverly’s Call Outs:

  1. Sewingwithcats: Naughty because of neglected fabric
  1. Tandarady – fixed a dress that she wasn’t wearing because of pattern matching that she didn’t like

  1. Stringthing – unintentional naughtylist – Jan 2021 made a toile and threw it in naughty pile because she was dissatisfied with it. Recently looked at the photos and couldn’t see what was wrong so she tried them on and they fit great!  Easiest Naughtylist transformation ever!


  1. JamillaSinger: Wanted comfy joggers, but took forever to take the plunge. The result is adorable & matched with a great Grover tee!

DetroyIt: Wool blend fabric that wasn’t a favorite – never finished.  Still languishing on the Naughty Pile.  

Somebody_Or_Others_mom Got stalled on elastic cuffs, and buttonholes.  Lori & I sew together some Saturday mornings – and on one of those, she pulled out her buttonhole tool & made it happen.  Great job!


Episode 57: New Patterns!

Catch up:


I’ve been really focused on sewing for #SewHappyColor & #pfNaughtyPile, as well as starting to sew through fabrics I picked up on my travels. 

  • I finally finished up my CWS parasol – adding another 7 linear yards of the final tier. It’s a three tier skirt added to the Parasol bodice. So so swishy. 
  • My wiggle dress is another that belonged on the naughty pile – because of the terrible drafting. Someone sent this to me so I could see if the drafting was improved enough to be wearable: spoiler alert – it isn’t without significant mods. 
  • Sew house seven Elemental Skirt FREE pattern – great size inclusive option for #SewFrugal – for details on this challenge, go to @frugalisima or @yorkshiresewgirl on Instagram

I went Dragonfruit-happy for #SewHappyColor – these are some of my favorite dresses ever. EVER. 

And – if you can believe it – I made two tops for a grandchild. On purpose. 😂

Sixteen makes so far in March. As of 16Mar2022!


Georgia Tee by Elisabeth Suzann and Florence pants by Elisabeth Suzann

I made the tee in a dark navy linen from and the pants with Brussels Washer Linen in tan/brown.

This is a fun and swishy outfit, very comfy for work. For folks like me, tall, but mostly tall in legs, I recommend not choosing the “tall” version of the pattern.  As is true with many RTW brands, the tall version of the pattern is drafted for a lot more crotch depth, as probably many tall folks need that.  I am also planning to size down.  I used the size that corresponded to my waist measurement, but the hip measurement puts me a size smaller and they are elastic waist pants.  

I decided to try making the Sew House Seven Free Range slacks as shorts. I love that pattern and wanted to do something with some Alexander Henry quilting cotton that I think I got from Seams Fabric.  So I did use some quilting cotton!

I have also made a toile for my Closet Core Charlie Caftan.  I used some deep discount shirting fabric for it.  If it fits ok, I will use it as a beach cover up because I didn;t lengthen so it’s almost certainly too short. Thoughts:  The little rectangle panel seems needlessly difficult seeing as it’s really just for looks.  Also, I didn’t know the folded parts in front were a dart!  Did I do the darts on the wrong side?  Have some other folks just folded it over instead of sewing down the dart?  What did you do?  The top darts I stitched, the bottom folded. If I make this again I’ll do the gathered version. 

After I get sizing right, I want to make a few in linen for summer.

Merchant and Mills Factory Dress – large size band, small size band 

Shirt Hack post

New Patterns:

By Hand London Flora Dress– new and improved sizing! Up to 68” hip

I tested this one! I love it. My next one I may extend the length of the back of the skirt to make a more obvious hi-lo hem.

Grainline scout tee- smaller size band, larger size band – added another size up to 32 now (61” hip) and the Grainline Tamarack (is this newly expanded sizing?)

Liz Haywood Zero Waste Culottes – up to 64” hips – very curious how you make ZW culottes!

Her website shows a variety of different bodies in the culottes, including a man.

Megan Neilsen Wattle Skirt. Up to 62” hip. 

Wattle is a set of classic skirts with unique crossover closure at the side seam. Pattern sits on the natural waist and features hidden closure at the left pocket, three skirt options, slash pockets, two waistband options and multiple lengths. I plan to make the midi bias skirt with button closure, and the gathered knee length with tie closure. 

Curvy classic dress. Up to 80” hip

The Haywood Blazer. Up to 63.5” hip

the Heywood Blazer sewing pattern is all gorgeous statement sleeves and sleek lines. With no closures to worry about, this pattern is simple to sew and even easier to style.

Muna & Broad Hyde. Will grade up to any size exceeding their existing size. Max 71.5” hip in existing sizing. 

The Hyde T-Shirt is a loose fitting knit top for effortless and easy dressing. The silhouette is boxy and designed to fit the body beautifully.

Both views feature a loose, comfy fit and a dropped shoulder. View B features an envelope back that is also an accessibility feature. The straight hemlines make this pattern perfect for stripes and we have drafted the neckband with our no-fuss application.

Victory Patterns Lola sweater dress. Up to 60” hips – starting this sooooon. 

Iris ZW blouse by Fibr&Cloth


Episode 56: Colorful Katie Kortman

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Today’s guest is the best thing that has happened to color since the rainbow!  Most folks know that Katie Kortman designs clothing and fabric. But some may not know that she began as a painter.  She earned her bachelor’s degree in Drawing and Painting and her master’s in education, from BYU.  Before she became a fashion designer, she worked as a painter and art teacher.  Last year, Katie was a designer on Bravo’s Project Runway!  We are so lucky to get to talk to her today and we know our listeners will love to hear what she has to say.

Questions for Katie:

  • When did you learn to sew?
  • Before you sewed your own, were your clothes as colorful as they are now?
  • Designing fabrics – how did you learn how? 
  • What was Project Runway like?  
    • What were the best and worst parts?
    • Did you enjoy the challenges?
    • How is fashion designing different from home sewing?
  • Tell us about your Hand-painted color collection clothing line
  • What do you think the sewing community does best?

Instagram: @katiekortmanart, @katiekortmanclothing

Pinterest: @katiekortmanart

Her course: Wear Happy Color – I think I need this course! Me, too.  I’m very random.




Episode 55: What to Sew with Midweight Cotton

First thing we want to thank all of the listeners who joined our new Patreon account this week!  We are blown away!  If you like the show, please consider helping support it.  You can find all the details at

Catch Up:

Jenny – I added a wide panel at the hem of my most recent Dragonfruit dress by Caramiya to make it wearable – which qualifies it for #pfNaughtyPile.  I’m otherwise bereft of new sewing.  

Beverly – I have been so busy that I haven’t gotten as much sewing done as usual, but i did make both a top version and dress version of the Merchant and Mills Fielder dress.  The top I made with Robert Kaufman Brussels washer yarn dyed linen/rayon with black ribbing from Joann’s. 

The dress version is made with Navy linen from Oak Fabrics and Merchant and Mills cuffing from Hart’s Fabric

Just under the wire I completed my #BHMPatternDesigners challenge item.  I made the Photinia from Fibr and Cloth.  I think I chose the wrong fabric.  I made it to be a nightie, but using cotton lawn really made the very gathered neckline hang strangely on me.  I think I would choose to make it out of rayon or other drapey fabric.  

New Patterns:

Sew Liberated Nocturne Pajamas! 

I can’t wait to make these!  I also want to make the longer top version for a nighty.  I like them because there aren’t any buttons on the front.  I love the look of the Closet Core Caroline and Spinifex PJs, but as a belly sleeper, I think these may be better for sleeping.

Helen’s Closet Cameron Shirt

Size Range: 0-34 (up to a 60″ chest and 62″ hip)

New free pattern from Peppermint – max hip 60”, and plus-sized model!

Patterns for non-drapey fabrics: The idea for this is that I have a whole bunch of shirting, quilting cotton, and cotton sateen in a pretty and organized naughty pile because I can’t think of what to make from them.  A fit and flare dress is an obvious choice, but that’s really not my style at all. What could I make? (Helen’s Closet Cameron is a good choice!)

The Glissando pattern from Love Notions includes cropped pants, shorts, and a skirt.  The front has slash pockets and a button fly.  I made the shorts in linen and it was a mistake.  I think a cotton sateen would work really good with this, especially if it has a little stretch.  

Can you use quilting cottons for this?

Maybe we can also play a game where I put you on the spot and show you some fabric and you name a good pattern for it!  If you can’t come up with one we could ask listeners for ideas.   HAHA!  Fun idea – but I’d think this would be better for an Insta live!

Good ideas in this post, but mostly for types of garments.  Many listed are #sewlimitedsizing

“All quilting cottons are not equal. The majority of mine are Cotton and Steel or similar quality, so while undeniably still mid-weight cottons, they are very soft and nothing like those cheap scratchy calico/muslin types in the bargain bin at the big box stores. Don’t do it!

Even if your quilting cotton is a quality fabric, there are significant differences in thickness and drape. Think about the garment you’re making and which end of the spectrum is going to work best.

Definitely do consider a lining for close-fitting skirts. Cotton can ride up – if you’re wearing tights it’s a guaranteed PITA.

Quilting cottons are often referred to as “medium-weight cottons”, so if you see this in the recommended fabrics, there’s a good chance your quilting cotton will be just fine and dandy.”

Seamwork Magazine- sewing with quilting cottons

Seamwork Aster

Jenny: Most of my wovens are midweight with less drape.  Here are some of my favorites for this:

Torrens: Max 71.5” hip

Stokx Big Pants: Max 52” waist

Tilly & The Buttons: Skye: Max 61” hips

Paper Theory: Zadie: Max 57.5” hip

Cashmerette Upton: Max 62” hip / 52” waist

Untitled Thoughts Amelie Dress: Max waist 50”

Caramiya Caladium Jumpsuit: Max 60” hip

Closet Core Blanca Flight Suit: MAx hip 63”

Closet Core Elodie: Max hip 63”

Seamwork Maeby – name change – Max 57” hip

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer: Max 63” hip

Friday Pattern Company SageBrush Top: Max 63” hip

Helen’s Closet: Pona: Max 58” hip – but very oversized – I selected based on high chest & full chest

Jennifer Lauren Handmade: Ivy Pinafore: Max 62.75” hip – releasing 9 March

Marilla Walker Belemnite Dress: Max 60” hip

Megan Neilsen Hovea Max 62” hip

Megan Neilsen Durban Jumpsuit: Max 62” hip

StyleArc Richmond utility skirt max hip: 70”

Peppermint Paddington Top



Friday Pattern company Patina blouse

Closet Core Kalle shirtdress

Helen’s closet Arden Pants – any “woven jogger” pattern


Episode 54: Introducing #pfNaughtyList

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