Punkfrockers is adding a prize to help Terrance Williams reach his goal of selling enough headbands to buy a new sewing machine! We’ll buy you a headband if you are the lucky winner this month. Episode 13.
If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com. We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week! Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?!
If you would like to support us, please visit patreon.com/punkfrockers.
Catch up:
Jenny:
Sewed several ponchos, working on a free pattern for two different versions. Struggling to update my patterns to all meet the 60” new PF guideline for mention on the program.
It is a classic 5-pocket pants, with two front pockets, 1 coin pocket, and two back patch pockets.
The fit of this pattern is high-waisted and fitted at the waist, hips, and thighs with negative ease until the knee.
The yoke cut is unique and not only makes this design look special visually but it is also designed to accentuate and give the best shape to your back with the help of two strategically placed darts.
You can choose the style of the leg with 3 different views:
VIEW A: Straight
VIEW B: Wide
VIEW C: Flare
This pattern also comes with 9 embroidery templates to rock on your patch pockets.
What did 2022 in sewing look like for us?
Jenny:
203 total makes
2020: 356
2021: 244
2022: 203
664.5 yards of fabric
Average of 3.3 yards per garment
155 Dresses, 23 tops, 13 skirts
34 different designers
Designer
#
CaramiyaMaui
60
Jenny Hassler
44
Other
18
Made By Rae
15
Cashmerette
10
CrisWoodSews
10
StyleArc
8
Muna & Broad
6
Fibr&Cloth
5
Jennifer Lauren Handmade
5
Fibremood
4
Helen’s closet
4
SewHouse7
4
5 out of 4
3
Closet core
3
Elbe Textiles
2
Friday Pattern Company
2
Grand Total
203
47 different sources of fabric
Source
#
%
Other
41
20%
Fabrics-store
40
20%
Joann
15
7%
Fabric.com
13
6%
Seams Fabrics
13
6%
Gift
9
4%
Domesticity
8
4%
Hello Friend Fabrics
8
4%
Mood
8
4%
Core Fabrics
7
3%
Fine Fabrics USA
7
3%
Julia Cost
6
3%
Spoonflower
6
3%
Simplifi Fabrics
5
2%
Dharma
4
2%
Warp & Weft Textiles
4
2%
Blackbird
3
1%
CraftHabitRaleigh
3
1%
Mulberry Silks
3
1%
Grand Total
203
100%
Linen was my favorite fabric. Thanks, Beverly!
Type
#
Linen
53
Cotton
35
Cotton knit
24
Other
22
Rayon
10
Double gauze
7
Ankara
6
French Terry
5
Yarn dyed cotton
5
Denim
4
Jacquard
4
Lawn
4
Poplin
4
Sateen
4
Silk
4
Eyelet
3
Quilted
3
Velour
3
Voile
3
Grand Total
203
57 different test sews (some of these are multiples of the same garment, 80% were paid)
Beverly:
I kept track of my makes this year! I made 98 items, almost entirely garments!
13 were items for other people, namely Jim and my mom.
About ⅓ dresses, ⅓ tops, and half that in pants and shorts combined. Others are pajamas, workout clothes, bags, etc
Avg 2.3 yds fabric
40 diff designers
81 diff patterns. Jenny: 68
29 diff fabric sources
41 diff types of fabric! How can this be right?
79 success, 10 fail, 6 meh. Jenny 154 not in my closet now
Top three fabric sources: Mood, Domesticity, Stylemaker
Top three designers: Sew Liberated, Merchant and Mills, Elisabeth Susann
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If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com. We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week! Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?!
Jenny: I’ve got lots of fabric coming in, and in a twist, I think I’m headed somewhere else with all my designing outside of just a regular website where you buy my dresses. It’s all a swirly in my brain (and the brain of some brainstorming peeps at my day job) but it’s so exciting, and so full of potential, and SO ME. I smile a lot when I think about it. So how’s that for mysterious progress on something I’m not currently actually sewing. Also: I’ve got two designs in the works that I’m going to (gulp) submit to Tauko magazine. I don’t expect to get picked – I’m really new to this, and often my designs are about making something that’s inspired by other something’s possible for a fat body… so maybe I’m not creative enough.
Beverly: For Christmas, I made my mom an Itch to Stitch Celeste dress using fabric I purchased at my local fabric store, Domesticity. I am using the Robert Kauffman Essex, cotton linen blend for the dress and it’s perfect. It’s not really a seasonally appropriate dress, but my mom really wanted a short sleeved shift dress and this one fits the bill. Man that fabric is so easy to sew!
It’s yarn dyed, light blue/white.
New patterns:
New standard for our podcast – only discuss patterns with a hip (or largest measurement) >or= 60”. This doesn’t apply to anything except what we will discuss here. As always, any pattern can be used for the challenges, regardless of size range, but we have both been feeling like the 55” standard is lower than we are comfortable with and so many pattern companies have expanded to 60 and beyond!
For this week’s new patterns, I went to the Curvy Pattern Database. It’s great because all patterns on this site meet the 60” and above standard! Here are a few from companies that I hadn’t even heard of before.
Inger Dress – Melilot patterns – sizes 32-64 – I think it’s a 61” hip – size chart in Norwegian I think. But you can get English instructions to the pattern!
Jenny: I’m having fun with my new one sleeved bodice, but mostly by fabric shopping for outrageous fabrics – like a stretchy foil, crushed velvet, etc. I’ve finally begun to come out of my design/sewing stupor and begun sewing again in the mornings. Mostly gifts – so not as much to talk about.
Beverly: Variation of Hinterland dress in Merchant and Mills large gingham yarn dyed linen, navy/red for my Christmas dress
Anecdote – heard a first time Christmas celebrator refer to it as having a part-time job from mid November until Christmas. I love this, but I think a better analogy is taking a course – you don’t have to keep all semester, but when you don’t, the time before the final sucks!
Community news:
Style arc has sewing tutorials for many of their patterns. They have been trying to improve their directions, but also want to offer these tutorials to supplement.
Sponsor: PunkFrockers! Gift bag of labels and patches
Catch up:
Jenny:
My new knit dress is coming along. 🙂
Also a ONE SHOULDER DRESS – OMG. Does anyone beside me want this? I don’t know but we’re gonna find out.
Beverly:
Running pants! Supplex fabric – used the True Bias Hudson Pants, smaller range here, men’s here. Did the same with a pair of shorts. Love them. So much more comfy than leggings and held up for half marathon!
Update: Quink Colorway! – Fatthighsandmermaidpants – Parker pens “THE English pen” blue colorway is called quink!
The Shau Vest is a perfect layer on a fitted blouse, turtleneck, T-shirt or dress. Not only does the Shau elevate your outfits, but it also adds warmth, thus extending the practicality of cool-weather clothes. The Shau Vest can be adapted for different looks. Use small-floral fabric with fur trim to make an Asian-inspired vest, or use wool plaid fabric with leather trim to make a Highland look.
Next up for us:
Beverly: Christmas dress using M&M checked linen red/navy – Hinterland Hack of my own (simple), Itch to Stitch Celeste Dress for my mom
Finished up things for my maker’s market – first night I sold a good bit so I already feel successful
Pink Orion dress – fluffy fun – final version. Just need to get grading tested out and I’m ready to go!
Made my Mrs. Claus base dress – using my own pattern, and crimson IL19 linen from Fabrics-store.com – still need to add fur trim, and find the right boots (which make be my black Uggs with fur added temporarily.
The Worship is a classic five-pocket rigid jeans pattern. Slim fit through the hip and thigh with a pitched straight waistband. Choose between a straight or flare cut leg. Meant for a heavier weight fabric that will break in with wear.
Newly upgraded to full size range (up to 63” hips)
Lightweight and unlined, it features a two-piece cuffed sleeve, optional drawstring waist, gusseted flap pocket and a zipper placket with snap buttons. View A will keep you warm and dry with a roomy three-piece hood, while View B features a classic stand-up collar.
Stay warm and cozy in the Winterthur Jacket! This contemporary utility jacket is relaxed and is a perfect addition to your everyday outfit. The buttons and hardware add a polished look to this casual jacket. Choose to make it in a simple cotton twill or a water-resistant polyester for different occasions.
Winterthur Jacket Features:
Options for cup sizes
Options for collar and three-piece hood
Fully lined
Front princess seams to shoulders
Back yoke
Cinched waist by drawstring on the inside
Front patch and optional chest pockets
Front zipper with buttoned flap
Two-piece long sleeve with adjustable buttoned sleeve hem
Truly size inclusive, a bit more work up front – these are for folks that want to learn to draft some patterns and perhaps have fewer fitting issues down the line. There are three choices, a little over $8 US for each or a bundle for about $21.
New PJs sound so good to me! I just purchased this beautiful, very nice flannel from Core Fabrics to make myself some. They are sold out of all but the black and white version. (I got purple/orange/navy)
What are some ideas:
As usual, we will be very strict with what we allow! Hahaha!
If your PJs are T shirts, that counts too!
If you make pjs for someone else – you are nicer than we are and your gift counts!
If you make “secret pajamas” this counts too!
As always, if you made something previously that you’d like to share, you can do that too. We know December is a really busy month!
The Creative Hinterland: Patternmaking for Mindful Sewists teaches you the skills you need to modify sewing patterns to your liking, bringing a spirit of playfulness to your sewing hobby and your closet.
Includes drafting instructions for 12 Hinterland hacks, a value of $192, PLUS over 20 hours of video instruction and membership in our vibrant online course community.
This course is designed for intermediate to advanced sewists.
Pattern making topics covered:
Tools and supplies
How-to coaching on research and style planning
Mindset coaching
Rotating darts into new locations
Creating new seams, including color blocking and princess seams
Changing seam locations and functions through developing yokes and closures
Adding design ease through gathers, slash and spread, and in seams
Changing armhole and neckline shaping
Adapting sleeves to different styles and fit preferences
Developing raglan seams in two different ways
Drafting different edge finishes like shaped facings and bias facings
Drafting collars, including flat collars and a convertible collar
Creating new pocket styles
Drafting a circle skirt to fit your bodice
Drafting a culotte bottom to fit your bodice
Developing details such as pintucks, keyhole necklines, and released darts
Different levels of memberships for different prices. Skill builder classes are in depth instruction for specific sewing areas: sleeves, collars, pockets, zippers, buttonholes, etc.
Sew Sew live – search her you tube channel and you may find your pattern already sewing by Saremy and a full sew along in real time!
Also has a message board. I’m a member but I really don’t take advantage of it.
Courses offered through local fabric stores– many of these are focused on beginners and many are not accessible for everyone. Things to look for: size-inclusive patterns, room between sewing machine stations – COVID has been helpful in this regard, but not all rooms are easy for everyone to get around in. A good way to meet sewing friends and to learn new skills. I have done “this looks right” quilting, but don’t know the rules – best to know them before I break them. My entry into quilting is this quilted vest class focusing on hand quilting.
STEP-BY-STEP COURSES: Each course is designed to be concise and easy to follow.
OUR METHOD: We use easy to understand terms and clear instruction to keep you interested and excited as you go through each course.
COURSE GUIDE: Each course is designed to build on the skills learned on the previous course.
AUTO RESUME: Log in and get right back to where you left off.
OUR FOUNDER: Mimi G has taught tens of thousands of people to sew and has built a recognized and respected brand. She is most known for her ability to teach anyone.
INCLUSION: With over 54 womenswear courses and 29 menswear new courses added monthly we offer something for students at each skill level.
Located in New York City’s Garment District, The New York Sewing Center has long been an authority on sewing education. Now, the center has taken its instruction to the digital realm, with a variety of classes, workshops, and private lessons offered online through Zoom or FaceTime. The uniqueness and wide variety of choices in classes that the New York Sewing Center offers put them in the top slot.
If a one-on-one private lesson is what you’re after, you can learn at your own pace courtesy of an instructor at a cost of around $60. The company is also flexible—if you don’t have a sewing machine, you can receive lessons in hand sewing, embroidering, or knitting. The New York Sewing Center team can also help you find a machine that matches what you’re looking for.
You can also sign up for an online workshop. Offerings are constantly changing and updating. Past classes include Virtual Summer Top workshop (you’ll make a chic fabric and elastic top ) and Virtual Knit Jumpsuit class roughly ($275) , during which you’ll create your own soft, stretchy, and stylish jumpsuit (pattern included). The New York Sewing Center has classes designed for all levels, including kids. They can sign up for a Virtual Fashion Summer Camp (about $375), learn how to make a skirt and scrunchie outfit, and more.
Prices vary depending on which class you choose, and they can last anywhere from one hour, a full day, or even 2 to 3 hours per week for up to six weeks to complete.
Skillshare has classes in pattern making, sewing, draping, etc
Getting an education in pattern construction will help you further understand how garments come to life. Hyden Yoo, the instructor of this course, is the creator of his own eponymous fashion label, and his mens- and womenswear have been featured in publications such as GQ, Elle, Details, WWD, Nylon, and W.
In this Skillshare class, Yoo outlines how important the paper pattern is in garment production. The class is designed for beginners and will teach you a simple, four-step process for pattern drafting: measurement (taking proper measurements to build a pattern), detailing (creating different collar types), materials (choosing materials for the optimal fit), and finally, paper drafting (actually drafting the paper pattern).
You’ll complete the lessons by creating a pattern for one of the workhorses of anyone’s wardrobe—the classic T-Shirt. If you don’t have a Skillshare membership yet, you’ll be able to take the class for free during the platform’s 30 day free trial period. A Basic Membership is free with limited access. The Premium Membership costs $32 per month, or about $170 annually.
Topic: Sewing gifts – what seems realistic to you for this year? Are we getting more generous? LOL!
I thought we could ID new patterns that would make good gifts (for ourselves or others), as well as ID actual items that would make a nice treat for the sewing enthusiast in your life.
