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Episode 59: #pfTNT

Thank you to all our Patreon subscribers!  We have added a new bonus episode available to all subscribers at or above Friends with Benefits and we are sending off a special little gift to first 20 our Friends with Gifts subscribers in April.  Go to patreon.com/punkfrockers to subscribe.

April sponsors: patterns from Elbe Textiles & Helen’s Closet; pattern printing by The Plotted Pattern, and a TBD from Seams Fabrics

Catch up:

Jenny:

  • A circle skirt in linen from Cashmerette as part of their new Club. 
  • Lola Victory Patterns Mulberry Silks Cotton knit Black white yellow with monkeys
  • Wattle Megan Neilsen Fabric.com Corduroy Red
  • Dragonfruit Caramiya Joann Cotton Eyelet Orange
  • Dragonfruit Caramiya Simplifi Fabrics Cotton Woven Orange planets
  • Dragonfruit Caramiya Fabric.com Double gauze Katie Kortman, blue + pink
  • Renee 5 out of 4 Simplifi Fabrics Cotton Woven Orange with cows

Beverly: I’ve been struggling!  My work has been hard and uncomfortable for me.  In general I like change, but I like to be in control… We went to NYC last weekend.  We went to Jutta Neumann shoes – for Jim to be measured/traced for custom sandals!  We walked all over the city.  We didn’t even take a subway while there.  On Sunday, Jim went for a drum lesson with Billy Martin from Medesky, Martin and Wood (Jazz) and I went fabric shopping.  This was a mistake – most of the shops are closed and none of the kind I like are open Sundays except M & J trimming.  Types of NYC fabric stores: organized with prices, disorganized and bartering.  Guess which kind I like.  

I did make one thing – I made it for the #SewFrugal22 challenge, organized by @frugalisama and @yorkshiresewgirl on Instagram.  I used the Peppermint Paddington Top (max size 58/51/61) and a stash fabric – rayon voile, navy background with radishes, peas, and onion plants as the print.  Off brand but I like it.  Alterations include: increased L by 2”, took out back buttons, increased elastic size to make arms loose.

New patterns:

True Bias Zoey Tank and Dress Pattern

Max size: 60/53/62

Marsha Style and Sew Lala collaboration : Alea Shirt and Dress

Max size 59/52/63

#pfTNT

#pfNaughty pile was a lot of work!  – emotionally! Who wants to go back to the trouble makers? We thought our listeners could use a break, so we decided to have a #pfTNT month!  This month, we are encouraging folks to choose a tried and true pattern to make.  You can use one of your own tried and true patterns or discover a favorite of someone else in the community by searching #tntpattern on Instagram.  

Beverly:

I plan to fully participate in this month’s theme!  In fact, I am going to choose at least one of my own TNT patterns and also one of Jenny’s!  

Ideas for my own:

Sew House Seven Free Range Slacks – I’ll probably make at least one pair of pants and another of shorts.

Helen’s Closet Ashton Top – I need some new tanks/short sleeved shirts for summer- perhaps combined with Elisabeth Suzanne Georgia tee – is it still tnt if hacked a new way?

Sew Liberated Hinterland Dress – I want a sleeveless version.

For Jenny’s (should I let Jenny decide???):

Fibermood Rosalie

Made by Rae Trillium

Would love the DragonFruit! But not released!!

Many of my favorites of Jenny’s are one-offs, not exactly TNTs

Any other suggestions, Jenny?

Jenny:

Trillium – I’ve made more than 60 in three years

Chive – I’m up to 20

Dragonfruit – over 15

Upton – a couple dozen

As part of Seams Fabric celebration of their anniversary this month, I’m making a Trillium from fabric they provided. I’ll start soon by doing a toile – and using elastic in my bobbin to shirr the back!!  I’m also planning to put the facing on the outside as in a recent Made by Rae post 

Sewing community favorites:

I’ve made three of these so far – only missing the Ogden. I’ll plan to make an Ogden this month. Max hip 59.5”

Paper Theory Zadie Jumpsuit max 57.5” hip

True Bias Ogden Cami max hip 59.5”

Friday Pattern Co Sagebrush Top max 60” chest/63” hip

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Episode 58: #pfNaughtyList Reveal

Next month’s clue:

This has been a tough one.  What have you done for it?

Jenny:

Naughty: I had some luck with naughtypile items this month.  First up:  I made an error in math (quick quiz:  what’s 71” divided in 2?  I bet you got something other than 30.5” – which is where I made my first mistake).  I made a lovely pink yard dyed check pattern CrisWoodSewsWaterfall dress – and it doesn’t fit at all.  I actually gave up on that one – it’s unrecoverable for me for my purpose – but dove right in again and made one from a Nerida Hansen check plaid.  I did the math correctly this time – yay for my CPA, lol.  This one hit the naughtypile due to the way that screwing up a pattern tends to make you stop making that pattern.  

Then there’s my CrisWoodSewsParasol whose bottom tier I finally finished.  We’ve talked about this one before.

Finally there’s my new DuplanierDress by Elbe Textiles.  I made this one but it wasn’t super wearable for me – too short.  I pulled it out of the closet and added a wide band at the hem and now it’s <chef’s kiss>.

Not Naughty: 

Not much, lol. I have so much cut and ready to go on my table, but so little actually finished.  I have big plans for this weekend!

Beverly:

Naughty:  First – and I can’t believe I haven’t talked about this make yet, but early in the month I made a Helen’s Closet March Dress using a rayon crepe, which is shifty as all hell, but what made it worthy of the Naughty Pile was the the directional print (plant stems with buds on them – slightly abstract, but clearly directional) were printed on the crossgrain, making cutting out the pattern really inconvenient!  But I did finish the dress and it’s a nice floaty version that I hope I’ll enjoy when it gets a little warmer.

Second is a #pfNaughtyList fail!  I tried to fix the RTW bathing suit I had and thought it would be a simple change of the neckline, but that change created all sorts of fit problems in the chest, including lots of gaping and puckers.  Boo!

The last one hardly counts, but as I was struggling to use shirting and quilting cottons – I used a very deep discount shirting fabric for a toile and some quilting cotton for shorts for Jim.

Not Naughty: My first Ogden Cami by True Bias.  This is a popular pattern in the sewing community and I can’t believe I’ve only made one.  I immediately made the straps larger to at least attempt to cover bra straps and also don’t want to turn out a skinny strap.  I’ll make my next one a bit smaller.

New Patterns:

S9540!!!(I would link to the actual pattern but can’t find it, maybe not yet avail?) Aaronica @needleandthebelle is on the cover of the pattern, looking fantastic!  Pattern is for a top and skirt that show some belly and an above the knee long sleeved (wrap?) dress.  Both look FAB on her.

Tilly and the Buttons Erin Dungarees – these are roomy overalls with knot ties in the front.  They also have those pockets that Jenny likes that are built into the waist.  

Style Arc Trinni Woven Dress – will I love it or hate it on me?  Will need to be a little shorter I think.  How hard will it be to lower that neckline given the detail on it? Lowering the neckline with the gathered front & neckband may be more complicated – depends on how it’s been designed, and how flat you want it to lay.  The high neck with facing would be easy to lower.

New Closet Core Chez Moi Collection

This is a collection of undies, bralettes, slips, robes, and bundles are available to take advantage of group discount.  

The size range is 0-32, ending in a max size of 60/53/63

Fabrics suitable for this collection are available at Core Fabrics 

I love the slip & robe here.  So lovely!

Thea Pleated Top from Made for Mermaids

  •  Made for knit fabrics.
  • • Pleated front bodice with a shaped front waistband.
  • • 3 neckline options: high scoop, low scoop, or mock turtleneck.
  • • 2 back bodice options: solid or peek-a-boo.
  • • Both back options have a center seam.
  • • The peek-a-boo back has a tie waistband and the solid back has a solid waistband.
  • • 5 sleeve options: sleeveless, flutter, cap, short, and long.
  • • Neckline and sleeveless options are finished with knit binding.
  • • The top hits at the high hips.
  • • Detailed, precise instructions with full-color photos.
  • • Includes videos.
  • • YouTube Video Thea Playlist can be found HERE.

Sizes (includes both imperial and metric measurements):

  • •Fits upper bust sizes 31″-53″ or 78.7-134.6 cm
  • •Fits full bust sizes 30″-60″ or 76.2-153.4 cm
  • •Fits high hip sizes: 29″-63″ or 73.6-160 cm.

#pfNaughtyList #pfNaughtyPile

Beverly’s Call Outs:

  1. Sewingwithcats: Naughty because of neglected fabric
  1. Tandarady – fixed a dress that she wasn’t wearing because of pattern matching that she didn’t like

  1. Stringthing – unintentional naughtylist – Jan 2021 made a toile and threw it in naughty pile because she was dissatisfied with it. Recently looked at the photos and couldn’t see what was wrong so she tried them on and they fit great!  Easiest Naughtylist transformation ever!

Jenny:

  1. JamillaSinger: Wanted comfy joggers, but took forever to take the plunge. The result is adorable & matched with a great Grover tee!

DetroyIt: Wool blend fabric that wasn’t a favorite – never finished.  Still languishing on the Naughty Pile.  

Somebody_Or_Others_mom Got stalled on elastic cuffs, and buttonholes.  Lori & I sew together some Saturday mornings – and on one of those, she pulled out her buttonhole tool & made it happen.  Great job!

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Episode 57: New Patterns!

Catch up:

Jenny:

I’ve been really focused on sewing for #SewHappyColor & #pfNaughtyPile, as well as starting to sew through fabrics I picked up on my travels. 

  • I finally finished up my CWS parasol – adding another 7 linear yards of the final tier. It’s a three tier skirt added to the Parasol bodice. So so swishy. 
  • My wiggle dress is another that belonged on the naughty pile – because of the terrible drafting. Someone sent this to me so I could see if the drafting was improved enough to be wearable: spoiler alert – it isn’t without significant mods. 
  • Sew house seven Elemental Skirt FREE pattern – great size inclusive option for #SewFrugal – for details on this challenge, go to @frugalisima or @yorkshiresewgirl on Instagram

I went Dragonfruit-happy for #SewHappyColor – these are some of my favorite dresses ever. EVER. 

And – if you can believe it – I made two tops for a grandchild. On purpose. 😂

Sixteen makes so far in March. As of 16Mar2022!

Beverly:

Georgia Tee by Elisabeth Suzann and Florence pants by Elisabeth Suzann

I made the tee in a dark navy linen from Fabrics-store.com and the pants with Brussels Washer Linen in tan/brown.

This is a fun and swishy outfit, very comfy for work. For folks like me, tall, but mostly tall in legs, I recommend not choosing the “tall” version of the pattern.  As is true with many RTW brands, the tall version of the pattern is drafted for a lot more crotch depth, as probably many tall folks need that.  I am also planning to size down.  I used the size that corresponded to my waist measurement, but the hip measurement puts me a size smaller and they are elastic waist pants.  

I decided to try making the Sew House Seven Free Range slacks as shorts. I love that pattern and wanted to do something with some Alexander Henry quilting cotton that I think I got from Seams Fabric.  So I did use some quilting cotton!

I have also made a toile for my Closet Core Charlie Caftan.  I used some deep discount shirting fabric for it.  If it fits ok, I will use it as a beach cover up because I didn;t lengthen so it’s almost certainly too short. Thoughts:  The little rectangle panel seems needlessly difficult seeing as it’s really just for looks.  Also, I didn’t know the folded parts in front were a dart!  Did I do the darts on the wrong side?  Have some other folks just folded it over instead of sewing down the dart?  What did you do?  The top darts I stitched, the bottom folded. If I make this again I’ll do the gathered version. 

After I get sizing right, I want to make a few in linen for summer.

Merchant and Mills Factory Dress – large size band, small size band 

Shirt Hack post

New Patterns:

By Hand London Flora Dress– new and improved sizing! Up to 68” hip

I tested this one! I love it. My next one I may extend the length of the back of the skirt to make a more obvious hi-lo hem.

Grainline scout tee- smaller size band, larger size band – added another size up to 32 now (61” hip) and the Grainline Tamarack (is this newly expanded sizing?)

Liz Haywood Zero Waste Culottes – up to 64” hips – very curious how you make ZW culottes!

Her website shows a variety of different bodies in the culottes, including a man.

Megan Neilsen Wattle Skirt. Up to 62” hip. 

Wattle is a set of classic skirts with unique crossover closure at the side seam. Pattern sits on the natural waist and features hidden closure at the left pocket, three skirt options, slash pockets, two waistband options and multiple lengths. I plan to make the midi bias skirt with button closure, and the gathered knee length with tie closure. 

Curvy classic dress. Up to 80” hip

Women’s Curvy Classic Dress Sewing Pattern

The Haywood Blazer. Up to 63.5” hip

the Heywood Blazer sewing pattern is all gorgeous statement sleeves and sleek lines. With no closures to worry about, this pattern is simple to sew and even easier to style.

Muna & Broad Hyde. Will grade up to any size exceeding their existing size. Max 71.5” hip in existing sizing. 

The Hyde T-Shirt is a loose fitting knit top for effortless and easy dressing. The silhouette is boxy and designed to fit the body beautifully.

Both views feature a loose, comfy fit and a dropped shoulder. View B features an envelope back that is also an accessibility feature. The straight hemlines make this pattern perfect for stripes and we have drafted the neckband with our no-fuss application.

Victory Patterns Lola sweater dress. Up to 60” hips – starting this sooooon. 

Iris ZW blouse by Fibr&Cloth

Iris Blouse Zero Waste Sewing Pattern
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Episode 56: Colorful Katie Kortman

To support our show, please visit patreon.com/punkfrockers – and a HUGE thank you to all the listeners that have already signed up. Your support will help us keep this show going.

Home flat-full-width

Today’s guest is the best thing that has happened to color since the rainbow!  Most folks know that Katie Kortman designs clothing and fabric. But some may not know that she began as a painter.  She earned her bachelor’s degree in Drawing and Painting and her master’s in education, from BYU.  Before she became a fashion designer, she worked as a painter and art teacher.  Last year, Katie was a designer on Bravo’s Project Runway!  We are so lucky to get to talk to her today and we know our listeners will love to hear what she has to say.

Questions for Katie:

  • When did you learn to sew?
  • Before you sewed your own, were your clothes as colorful as they are now?
  • Designing fabrics – how did you learn how? 
  • What was Project Runway like?  
    • What were the best and worst parts?
    • Did you enjoy the challenges?
    • How is fashion designing different from home sewing?
  • Tell us about your Hand-painted color collection clothing line
  • What do you think the sewing community does best?

Instagram: @katiekortmanart, @katiekortmanclothing

Pinterest: @katiekortmanart

Her course: Wear Happy Color – I think I need this course! Me, too.  I’m very random.

#katiekortmanfabric

#wearhappycolor

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Episode 55: What to Sew with Midweight Cotton

First thing we want to thank all of the listeners who joined our new Patreon account this week!  We are blown away!  If you like the show, please consider helping support it.  You can find all the details at patreon.com/punkfrockers.

Catch Up:

Jenny – I added a wide panel at the hem of my most recent Dragonfruit dress by Caramiya to make it wearable – which qualifies it for #pfNaughtyPile.  I’m otherwise bereft of new sewing.  

Beverly – I have been so busy that I haven’t gotten as much sewing done as usual, but i did make both a top version and dress version of the Merchant and Mills Fielder dress.  The top I made with Robert Kaufman Brussels washer yarn dyed linen/rayon with black ribbing from Joann’s. 

The dress version is made with Navy linen from Oak Fabrics and Merchant and Mills cuffing from Hart’s Fabric. 

Just under the wire I completed my #BHMPatternDesigners challenge item.  I made the Photinia from Fibr and Cloth.  I think I chose the wrong fabric.  I made it to be a nightie, but using cotton lawn really made the very gathered neckline hang strangely on me.  I think I would choose to make it out of rayon or other drapey fabric.  

New Patterns:

Sew Liberated Nocturne Pajamas! 

I can’t wait to make these!  I also want to make the longer top version for a nighty.  I like them because there aren’t any buttons on the front.  I love the look of the Closet Core Caroline and Spinifex PJs, but as a belly sleeper, I think these may be better for sleeping.

Helen’s Closet Cameron Shirt

Size Range: 0-34 (up to a 60″ chest and 62″ hip)

BOWEN DRESS

New free pattern from Peppermint – max hip 60”, and plus-sized model!

Patterns for non-drapey fabrics: The idea for this is that I have a whole bunch of shirting, quilting cotton, and cotton sateen in a pretty and organized naughty pile because I can’t think of what to make from them.  A fit and flare dress is an obvious choice, but that’s really not my style at all. What could I make? (Helen’s Closet Cameron is a good choice!)

The Glissando pattern from Love Notions includes cropped pants, shorts, and a skirt.  The front has slash pockets and a button fly.  I made the shorts in linen and it was a mistake.  I think a cotton sateen would work really good with this, especially if it has a little stretch.  

Can you use quilting cottons for this?

Maybe we can also play a game where I put you on the spot and show you some fabric and you name a good pattern for it!  If you can’t come up with one we could ask listeners for ideas.   HAHA!  Fun idea – but I’d think this would be better for an Insta live!

Good ideas in this post, but mostly for types of garments.  Many listed are #sewlimitedsizing

“All quilting cottons are not equal. The majority of mine are Cotton and Steel or similar quality, so while undeniably still mid-weight cottons, they are very soft and nothing like those cheap scratchy calico/muslin types in the bargain bin at the big box stores. Don’t do it!

Even if your quilting cotton is a quality fabric, there are significant differences in thickness and drape. Think about the garment you’re making and which end of the spectrum is going to work best.

Definitely do consider a lining for close-fitting skirts. Cotton can ride up – if you’re wearing tights it’s a guaranteed PITA.

Quilting cottons are often referred to as “medium-weight cottons”, so if you see this in the recommended fabrics, there’s a good chance your quilting cotton will be just fine and dandy.”

Seamwork Magazine- sewing with quilting cottons

Seamwork Aster

Jenny: Most of my wovens are midweight with less drape.  Here are some of my favorites for this:

Torrens: Max 71.5” hip

Stokx Big Pants: Max 52” waist

Tilly & The Buttons: Skye: Max 61” hips

Paper Theory: Zadie: Max 57.5” hip

Cashmerette Upton: Max 62” hip / 52” waist

Untitled Thoughts Amelie Dress: Max waist 50”

Caramiya Caladium Jumpsuit: Max 60” hip

Closet Core Blanca Flight Suit: MAx hip 63”

Closet Core Elodie: Max hip 63”

Seamwork Maeby – name change – Max 57” hip

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer: Max 63” hip

Friday Pattern Company SageBrush Top: Max 63” hip

Helen’s Closet: Pona: Max 58” hip – but very oversized – I selected based on high chest & full chest

Jennifer Lauren Handmade: Ivy Pinafore: Max 62.75” hip – releasing 9 March

Marilla Walker Belemnite Dress: Max 60” hip

Megan Neilsen Hovea Max 62” hip

Megan Neilsen Durban Jumpsuit: Max 62” hip

StyleArc Richmond utility skirt max hip: 70”

Peppermint Paddington Top

#quiltingcottonclothes

#ankaraappreciationweek

Friday Pattern company Patina blouse

Closet Core Kalle shirtdress

Helen’s closet Arden Pants – any “woven jogger” pattern

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Episode 54: Introducing #pfNaughtyList

To support our show, please go to: https://www.patreon.com/Punkfrockers

The Color Purple at The Allentown Civic Theater

@C.pikas

@k8sprklbutt

@tinaacava

https://www.shopdomesticity.com/s/shop

Berger Cookies

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Episode 53: #pfBondage Reveal

Jenny

I’ve mostly had COVID – but have finally started some sewing again.  

I’ve also made a Caramiya pattern that as of this taping is no longer expected to be released. That one used French seams, and has a full enclosed & exposed facing. 

The test for PaperAnchor included a bound hem. 

I’m hoping to get some binding made today so I can do Hong Kong seams on my sheer Half Bog dress – a newly released pattern by TheSewSew.  I’m making a Pepite Stitcher Pothos unitard to wear underneath it.  I can’t recall where I saw this idea – but someone on Instagram did the same with a sheer dress.  I’m getting the Pothos pattern printed on the new tissue paper from The Plotted Pattern company.

Beverly:

Elizabeth Suzann Clyde Jumpsuit – made a toile from an old sheet and then made one with a really nice canvas from Domesticity – a local sewing store here in Baltimore. 

Elizabeth Suzann Florence shorts – made in a heavy linen – waist too high.  Everything I make from her is too high, because I use the tall version- mostly tall in legs, not torso. Linen from Fabrics-store.com

Elizabeth Suzann Clyde pants – this is my true #pfBondage project.  I used Brussels Washer Linen from Robert Kaufman and did flat felled seams throughout.  I used the tip from Sheila O’Kelly and bias bound the bottom of my waistband, serging the first pass.  LOVE how these pants came out.  Loved them so much that I redid the waistband in an old pair that needed the elastic redone.

Made a pair of pajama pants for Jim for Valentine’s Day.  I used quilting cotton with scientists and science stuff on it that I got from Domesticity for just $2/yard! I used the FREE pattern from 5 out of 4 patterns for pajama pants (max 65” hip) as a starting point, but put some nice pockets in it (similar to in the Hudson pants (slash pockets?). – He really wanted a shirt made from the fabric so I got some more of the fabric and will make it this weekend.

Finally I made two Georgia Tee patterns, also from Elizabeth Suzann.  The first is a toile in scratchy cheap linen and the second is in purple silky noil.  I love it so much!  Such a simple pattern, so perfect for #pfBondage because there are just a few seams.  Excellent beginner project that looks really cool.  I love it because it’s short enough for skirts without being tucked in, and not so short that i don’t want to lift my arms.

Sewing community: 

Fibremood 18 is out! I think the cover pattern is my favorite.  It’s the Paola Sweater and I think it will work for me because the sleeve detail isn’t at the shoulder.

Is it a hoodie or not? That’s up to you! Paola looks great with or without a hood and is just the ticket with or without a kangaroo pocket. Either way, you’re the boss. You could also make the sleeves three-quarter length or longer. Or maybe you’re already tempted to sew a pair of Paolas in one go! One thing’s for sure, though – the stretch trim fabric makes for a supremely comfortable fit and keeps your head snug and warm.

Calls for knit fabrics and I think I need to get some more of my favorite french terry from Stylemaker fabrics.

I also like the Maude pattern, similar shoulders. 

Daughter Judy Patterns

New pattern company: Daughter Judy Patterns

Four patterns: pants, jumpsuit, coat and dress.  Two size blocks range from hips 35 inches to 67 inches.  “Daughter Judy is a design driven pattern collection whose mission is to infuse intention into personal style with quality drafted patterns for the home sewer. Modern classics with a point of view allow users to curate lifelong style into their closet. Wear them to be heard or relaxed and off duty. There is extensive experience behind every Daughter Judy pattern–we’ve done more testing so you can spend less time adjusting.” Founder got her start at Ralph Lauren.

The Edith:pfBondage/#pfBoundSeams/#pfSeamFinishes – Let’s do three each this time 🙂

Cotton_and_seed_handmade: also made another pair of MB Birchgrove pants with similar detail.  Beautiful!

Karenspurplecow: montrose top by Cashmerette.  Finished the neckline with ruched self-fabric binding, covering up an undesirable result.  Want to also call them out because they mentioned that they are only posting about patterns that meet their standards for size inclusivity. Wonderful to see folks in the sewing community being thoughtful about this. 

Bellecityhandmade: Love this because she noted this was her SUBMISSION for #pfBondage-used french seams

Jenny:

Patreon episode on Patreon coming very soon!

This month’s Sponsors are: 

SewHouse7 – a free pattern

StokxPatterns – a free pattern

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Episode 52: Ideas for #pfBondage

Catch up:

Jenny:

I’ve made a few new things, including two test versions of Caramiya’s Dragonfruit Dress (fabrics from Fine Fabrics, and Fabric.com) , a Chive in double knit from Fine Fabrics, a new test item from a fav company from linen (Fabrics-store), a Meg from 5 out of 4 (fabrics from Julia Cost), and a couple self-drafted skirts. My instagram likely has deets on all of these by now.

Beverly:

Second Sew House 7 Toaster Sweater (version 2) in black french terry from Stylemaker fabrics.

My first make for #pfBondage!  – A tunic version of the Woolfork dress pattern in linen from Gray Line Linen in NYC.  I used French seams throughout, including the sleeve insertion – that took mental work for me to do correctly!  I recommend this pattern for that seam treatment if you want to give it a try as the instructions tell you exactly what to do, and it’s a simple pattern for it.

Sewing Community: 

#bhmPatternDesigners – this annual event in honor or Black pattern designers for Black History Month.  The challenge is to make a pattern from a Black designer.  Lots of great prizes! Details for the event can be found at SewNaturalDane.com and at her Instagram account @sewnaturaldane 

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CZcOGOsKhFj/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

#sewfrugal22 – This year they have expanded from just free dress patterns to include any garment.  This is organized by @frugalisama and @theyorkshiresewgirl and the idea is to use a free pattern and fabric from your stash to make a garment.  Also have lots of prizes!

Elizabeth Suzann patterns released!  This is definitely a #pfMyStyle moment!  Elizabeth Suzann is a slow fashion garment designer and producer.  She shut down her shop in the pandemic and made her patterns briefly available in exchange for a donation to BLM causes.  She has since reopened her shop and is releasing those patterns, with instructions a few at a time.  I purchased her Clyde work pants a while ago and I love them. All of her patterns are pay what you can.  She suggests a price of $15, but you can pay as little as nothing if you can’t afford them, and if you can afford more, you can pay $30 to sponsor someone that can’t pay. Her patterns are designed for up to 62” hips.

New patterns: 

Clyde jumpsuit.  I can’t wait to make this! Looks just like the pants but without a waistband. Could become my at home uniform.  I definitely see this in a heavyweight soft linen.  

I bought some cafe au lait colored canvas from Create Domesticity – a local store here in Baltimore.  

Harper Tunic – very oversized tunic with a big sloped pocket in front.

I made this one today!  I used some black linen that I got on sale for my first version and it’s great!  Very oversized and cozy.  Hippy wear for sure.  

The Florence pants – cropped pants with elastic waist

She also has the Georgia Series – boxy top, tunic and dress.

For ideas about this follow: #elizabethsuzann #esmadebyme #esmadebyme_name of pattern

Mood fabrics: The Dill Dress – of course this is a free mood pattern.  It’s a dropped waist dress with a gathered skirt that attaches at an angle to the bodice.  Patterned designed for up to 63.5” hips – they suggest rayon or rayon linen blend.

I think i’m going to love this.

Resources for seam finishes and bias binding:

Closet Core How to Sew Hong Kong and Bias bound seams

Oliver And S – bias bound seams

Seamwork – bias bound seams

Made by Rae – Hong Kong and bias bound seams

Tilly and the Buttons – how to sew French Seams

Grainline – a guide to seam finishes

French all your seams – grainline

Megan Nielsen – 6 seam finishes

This month’s sponsors:  Muna & Broad, SewHouse7 – free PDF pattern. 

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Episode 51: Sheila O’Kelly

Sheila’s notes:

1. Sewing like mad – Bias binding without ironing

https://www.sewinglikemad.com/2013/08/sew-homemade-bias-tape-easy-way-and.html

2. To cut bias tape from square

How to Make Bias Tape

Fold bottom righthand corner up to top edge. This creates bias fold line.

Fold top right corner down to meet bottom fold. This double folded edge is cutting line.

Line that up with straight vertical grid and cut strips in width you need.

3. Babylock binder

Baby Lock Double Fold Bias Binder with Guide Rake 36mm

BL_D13-4-10E

4. Hong Kong Binding

Leila – Muna and Broad

Shoalhaven shacket

But I serge on first pass.

5. French seams

Using 3-thread narrow overlock, serge on first pass.

6. Bias binding without sewing circle first

Instructions in Cashmerette Montrose top.

Our notes:

  • LB pullover – what Sheila is working on now, also bought cotton knit to make more casual dresses for wear during a pandemic
  • Montrose top from Cashmerette – first bound top, neck leave the tail and sew together to make the count top
  • Bias Binding Tips & Techniques:
    • Doesn’t use pins
    • Generally constantly turning, get in your way
    • Easy to line up without pins
    • First pass, uses serger
    • Always understitch 
    • Learned to do bias binding without ironing from SewingLikeMad
    • Great for doing armholes on sleeveless garments, add before doing the side seam 
      • Might get slight irregularity at the side seam but no one will see it
  • Hong Kong binding
    • Leila does great videos on this with the patterns
      • Sholehaven Shacket 
    • Sergers it on first, too
    • Need a ⅝” seam allowance to make it work (1.5 cm) property
    • What is HK binding
      • You’re binding the edge of pattern pieces before putting it together
      • Sew on right sides together
      • Iron it over the top
      • Don’t fold again – just sew it down
        • Won’t be visible when you’ve ironed the seam down after joining
    • Tend to do on heavier fabrics
  • French Seam
    • Wrong sides together, then right sides together
    • Do first pass with 3 thread narrow hem
      • One needle, two loopers

How to cut bias binding: SeasonedHomemaker.com

Sewing Machines:

  • Pfaff 
  • Baby Lock Victory
  • Baby Lock Coverstitch
    • Double fold bias binder with guide 36mm
      • Easiest with knits
        • Always cut 1.5” wide
        • Baby scuba is a dream to use in the binder
      • With wovens have to fiddle each time

Buying Bias Tape

  • Seramy from SewSewLive bias tape
    • Also started a sewing guild
      • Whoa!

Beverly will sell her Singer Bias Tape Maker – reach out!

Categories
episodes

Episode 50: #pfBondage

Catch up:

Jenny:

I’ve started hacking the StyleArc Hope dress to make dusters & jackets. 

By the time this is released, you my feed should have images of the most recent test garments I’ve made. 

I’ve also self-drafted two skirts with separating zippers up the center front. 

And I’ve had two sets of good interviews for possible new positions – with one having a third round coming up on Monday, Jan 31. 

Beverly: I made two things that I will wear a lot!  

True Bias Hudson pants-larger sizes 

True Bias Hudson pants – smaller sizes

I made a higher waist version using a tutorial on their website.  I added 2 inches to the length and I left out the tie at the waist because I find that so long as I get the elastic right I just leave it tied anyway.

Great news! Sew House Seven has released their popular pattern Toaster Sweater in their new larger size band (up to 65” hip). The new release includes both size bands and if you purchased previously you can update your pattern for free.  I have been waiting for this to be improved!  I made the version #2, with the funnel neck and regular sleeves.  I chose a size larger than my measurements because I generally like loose clothing, and I really can’t stand when warm clothes are fitted on me.  It is perfect!  I made it with the ponte I purchased a couple months ago.  

Next up for me: Gossamer from Stokx patterns and Page from Elbe textiles – this is a dress with loads of pintucks.  It’s a much different style than the ByHandLondon Marie, as the tucks go much farther down the garment, making an effect sort of like pleats for the skirt, as they tucks are released at dropped waist level.  

A listener already gave an idea to me for undies: the Apostrophe My Fit Undies.  – You can make them with any stretch fabric – including NO stretch at all!  Like bloomers!

Sewing news: Tauko Tuesday!!!  Received my new Tauko magazine in the mail. This is on its way to me as a gift from a fan. 

Some patterns I like:  Pants called Cargo that aren’t Cargo pants but are very similar to another very popular pants pattern that has #sewlimitedsizing

The Liza: LIZA is a 3-in-1 pattern with many possible variations.  

The top is a very boxy cropped top.  Skirt is high waisted and combined they make a dress.

Theme for February, the month of LOVE – #pfBondage!  

Some ideas: 

French

Serged

Zigzag

Exposed

Bound

Hem tape

Serged and folded

Double folded

Why would you want to do this:

Make the insides looks as good as the outsides

Make a durable garment

Slow down!

Have fun with wild fabrics that you may not want to wear on the outside

You get to use the #pfBondage hashtag on one of your makes!

Good patterns for showing off seams:

Friday pattern company Ilford jacket (up to 60” chest)

Sheila O’Kelly!

Muna and Broad Belmore Jacket

Muna and Broad Shoalhaven jacket

Sienna Maker’s Jacket

https://www.instagram.com/p/CQi8AV3sHm2/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Dresses are another great choice – especially for French seams.  The woolfork dress I made last week has instructions for french seams, which I may do for my next one.

Another great example is to do flat-felled seams in a shirt.  I did this for some shirts I made for Jim from big 4 patterns.  Some good indie choices:

Cornell Shirt from Elbe textiles – comes with instructions for french seams, but you could definitely do  flat felled.

Kalle Shirt and Shirtdress from Closet core patterns

Jeans – especially around the fly – could match with your pocket lining

StyleArc Hope Dress as jacket: This is also perfect for the Hope jacket hack I’ve been exploring lately; ideal for bound seams, or flat felled seams. 

StokxPatterns Heldin Tasche bag : flat felled seams

Heldin Tasche

Emerald by Made By Rae : Hong Kong finished seams

Emerald Dress Sewing Pattern PDF

Hovea jacket: lined, or bound edges

Hovea Jacket & Coat Pattern