Episode 51: Sheila O’Kelly

Sheila’s notes:

1. Sewing like mad – Bias binding without ironing

2. To cut bias tape from square

Fold bottom righthand corner up to top edge. This creates bias fold line.

Fold top right corner down to meet bottom fold. This double folded edge is cutting line.

Line that up with straight vertical grid and cut strips in width you need.

3. Babylock binder

Baby Lock Double Fold Bias Binder with Guide Rake 36mm


4. Hong Kong Binding

Leila – Muna and Broad

Shoalhaven shacket

But I serge on first pass.

5. French seams

Using 3-thread narrow overlock, serge on first pass.

6. Bias binding without sewing circle first

Instructions in Cashmerette Montrose top.

Our notes:

  • LB pullover – what Sheila is working on now, also bought cotton knit to make more casual dresses for wear during a pandemic
  • Montrose top from Cashmerette – first bound top, neck leave the tail and sew together to make the count top
  • Bias Binding Tips & Techniques:
    • Doesn’t use pins
    • Generally constantly turning, get in your way
    • Easy to line up without pins
    • First pass, uses serger
    • Always understitch 
    • Learned to do bias binding without ironing from SewingLikeMad
    • Great for doing armholes on sleeveless garments, add before doing the side seam 
      • Might get slight irregularity at the side seam but no one will see it
  • Hong Kong binding
    • Leila does great videos on this with the patterns
      • Sholehaven Shacket 
    • Sergers it on first, too
    • Need a ⅝” seam allowance to make it work (1.5 cm) property
    • What is HK binding
      • You’re binding the edge of pattern pieces before putting it together
      • Sew on right sides together
      • Iron it over the top
      • Don’t fold again – just sew it down
        • Won’t be visible when you’ve ironed the seam down after joining
    • Tend to do on heavier fabrics
  • French Seam
    • Wrong sides together, then right sides together
    • Do first pass with 3 thread narrow hem
      • One needle, two loopers

How to cut bias binding:

Sewing Machines:

  • Pfaff 
  • Baby Lock Victory
  • Baby Lock Coverstitch
    • Double fold bias binder with guide 36mm
      • Easiest with knits
        • Always cut 1.5” wide
        • Baby scuba is a dream to use in the binder
      • With wovens have to fiddle each time

Buying Bias Tape

  • Seramy from SewSewLive bias tape
    • Also started a sewing guild
      • Whoa!

Beverly will sell her Singer Bias Tape Maker – reach out!

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