Episode 55: What to Sew with Midweight Cotton

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Catch Up:

Jenny – I added a wide panel at the hem of my most recent Dragonfruit dress by Caramiya to make it wearable – which qualifies it for #pfNaughtyPile.  I’m otherwise bereft of new sewing.  

Beverly – I have been so busy that I haven’t gotten as much sewing done as usual, but i did make both a top version and dress version of the Merchant and Mills Fielder dress.  The top I made with Robert Kaufman Brussels washer yarn dyed linen/rayon with black ribbing from Joann’s. 

The dress version is made with Navy linen from Oak Fabrics and Merchant and Mills cuffing from Hart’s Fabric

Just under the wire I completed my #BHMPatternDesigners challenge item.  I made the Photinia from Fibr and Cloth.  I think I chose the wrong fabric.  I made it to be a nightie, but using cotton lawn really made the very gathered neckline hang strangely on me.  I think I would choose to make it out of rayon or other drapey fabric.  

New Patterns:

Sew Liberated Nocturne Pajamas! 

I can’t wait to make these!  I also want to make the longer top version for a nighty.  I like them because there aren’t any buttons on the front.  I love the look of the Closet Core Caroline and Spinifex PJs, but as a belly sleeper, I think these may be better for sleeping.

Helen’s Closet Cameron Shirt

Size Range: 0-34 (up to a 60″ chest and 62″ hip)

New free pattern from Peppermint – max hip 60”, and plus-sized model!

Patterns for non-drapey fabrics: The idea for this is that I have a whole bunch of shirting, quilting cotton, and cotton sateen in a pretty and organized naughty pile because I can’t think of what to make from them.  A fit and flare dress is an obvious choice, but that’s really not my style at all. What could I make? (Helen’s Closet Cameron is a good choice!)

The Glissando pattern from Love Notions includes cropped pants, shorts, and a skirt.  The front has slash pockets and a button fly.  I made the shorts in linen and it was a mistake.  I think a cotton sateen would work really good with this, especially if it has a little stretch.  

Can you use quilting cottons for this?

Maybe we can also play a game where I put you on the spot and show you some fabric and you name a good pattern for it!  If you can’t come up with one we could ask listeners for ideas.   HAHA!  Fun idea – but I’d think this would be better for an Insta live!

Good ideas in this post, but mostly for types of garments.  Many listed are #sewlimitedsizing

“All quilting cottons are not equal. The majority of mine are Cotton and Steel or similar quality, so while undeniably still mid-weight cottons, they are very soft and nothing like those cheap scratchy calico/muslin types in the bargain bin at the big box stores. Don’t do it!

Even if your quilting cotton is a quality fabric, there are significant differences in thickness and drape. Think about the garment you’re making and which end of the spectrum is going to work best.

Definitely do consider a lining for close-fitting skirts. Cotton can ride up – if you’re wearing tights it’s a guaranteed PITA.

Quilting cottons are often referred to as “medium-weight cottons”, so if you see this in the recommended fabrics, there’s a good chance your quilting cotton will be just fine and dandy.”

Seamwork Magazine- sewing with quilting cottons

Seamwork Aster

Jenny: Most of my wovens are midweight with less drape.  Here are some of my favorites for this:

Torrens: Max 71.5” hip

Stokx Big Pants: Max 52” waist

Tilly & The Buttons: Skye: Max 61” hips

Paper Theory: Zadie: Max 57.5” hip

Cashmerette Upton: Max 62” hip / 52” waist

Untitled Thoughts Amelie Dress: Max waist 50”

Caramiya Caladium Jumpsuit: Max 60” hip

Closet Core Blanca Flight Suit: MAx hip 63”

Closet Core Elodie: Max hip 63”

Seamwork Maeby – name change – Max 57” hip

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer: Max 63” hip

Friday Pattern Company SageBrush Top: Max 63” hip

Helen’s Closet: Pona: Max 58” hip – but very oversized – I selected based on high chest & full chest

Jennifer Lauren Handmade: Ivy Pinafore: Max 62.75” hip – releasing 9 March

Marilla Walker Belemnite Dress: Max 60” hip

Megan Neilsen Hovea Max 62” hip

Megan Neilsen Durban Jumpsuit: Max 62” hip

StyleArc Richmond utility skirt max hip: 70”

Peppermint Paddington Top



Friday Pattern company Patina blouse

Closet Core Kalle shirtdress

Helen’s closet Arden Pants – any “woven jogger” pattern

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