Sponsor this month: Club DIBY one pattern per week! (Do it better yourself) There are also quite a few free patterns if you want to try the instructions etc before you commit!
Creative Hinterland hack #7 – pintuck shirt dress. Love this one! Altered the front for pin tucks, changed the front to one piece instead of bodice/skirt, left the back the same.
Embroidery
Ogden Cami -(59.5”) scrap fabric that I came across – wide fabric can make this cami out of one yard in my size but may have to make lining (facing) from different fabric. This time I made the facing smaller.
Made in collaboration with Sew to Grow’s sensational Lindsey Rae, the Peppermint Samford Set is the ultimate in day pyjamas – a loosely cropped, camp-collared shirt that brings the perfect amount of slouch, and a pair of wide-leg pants with front pockets, back pockets and an elasticated waistband with a cute drawstring.
The body of the top and dress nearly forms a full circle, resulting in a loose and flowy fit. All versions cut just above the bust and you have the option of sleeveless halter-style ties, short drop-shoulder sleeves or long sleeves with elasticated wrists. The dress version cuts just above the knees and the top cuts at the hip.
Sponsor this month: Club DIBY one pattern per week! (Do it better yourself) There are also quite a few free patterns if you want to try the instructions etc before you commit!
Line drawings of a wrap front top with long sleeves, long best tying in a bow at the right side of the waist. Versions pictured with and without collar.Wrap top pictured on a woman with long brown hair. Top is grey with pink and orange small flowers; long sleeved with collar.
#SewFrugal2023 – all month long
Free patterns!
Our episode from last year: #69 Free Patterns – warning: only up to our previous 55” standard, MOST of them do not meet new standard.
Elastic waist dress, sleeveless, with a tulip skirt in blue on a brown woman wearing brown boots & a statement necklace. Dress has a boatneck & is blue.
Tulip Dress – made to measure tutorial – Jenny shipped this up in less than 2 hours.
Orange colored simple maxi caftan with belt & statement necklace displayed on a headless mannequin standing on a lush green lawn.
Brightly flowered loose fitting dress with dramatic sleeves worn by a woman holding a plant in a basket, also wearing black chunky sandals, and sitting on a stool.
Very loose fitting boxy top worn by a brown woman with long black center parted hair. Top is purple with narrow woven stripes in different colors. It is paired with a straight skirt in white with thin stripes in repeats.
Photos of a group of diverse people wearing denim jumpsuits. People are of different sizes, colors, gender presentations, and shapes. Standing and kneeling.
View A is a knee length skirt with curved seams and less gathers in the waist. View B is a midi length skirt with straight seams and more gathers in the waist. Both views feature pockets! The pattern also comes with digital stencils that are inspired by the work of Carmen Herrera and instructions for how to create your own hand painted version of the skirt.
A0 or A4/letter size
A person with long hair wearing a cream top paired with a gathered navy skirt with stenciled shapes in darker blue on it. They are standing in the corner of a room wearing brown clogs and surrounded by plants on either sdie.
Line drawings of leggings from shorts, to bike length, to capris, to handle length.Photo of a person wearing a black dress with shoulder cut outs. The dress is raised to show the skin tone bike shorts being worn underneath.
Photo of a person wearing a matching sweater and skirt set in burgundy. The sweater is boxy and long sleeved and cropped to the waist. The skirt is mid-calf and straight cut.
Peppermint Magazine Bowen Dress – up to 61” hip. New patterns from Peppermint are on a pay what you can (minimum $5) but it appears old ones are still free.
A photo of a brown person wearing a loose fitting dress with dropped and gathered sleeves. The dress is random shapes & sizes of colorful spotches on a white background.
Person wearing a burgundy apron with cream colored ties at the waist and neck. They are smiling and wearing a blue shirt with white polka dots.
Mood Fabrics has many free patterns and most go up to ~63” hip. There are sometimes drafting problems especially for larger sizes so we don’t often recommend them unless we have tested. However, it was the only source of free Menswear patterns in this size range that I could find aside from a few T-shirt patterns. Here is a link to Menswear/unisex. All Gender Patterns
The Anna Button-Up skirt is just like a pattern I love that is not yet expanded in size and goes up to 67”hip. Love it! I think it will be great in one of my new twill fabrics. There are also quite a few free patterns if you want to try the instructions etc before you commit!
Originally designed and sold by Fringe Supply Co., the Town bag is a great everyday purse and/or a do-it-all project bag, no matter what your project may be. It has the same drawstring closure and interior pockets – designed for corralling tools, patterns, and miscellany – as the Field bag (minus the grommets), but with the addition of tote-style handles and external front and back pockets. It’s large enough to fit a Field or Stowe bag inside but small enough to fit into a larger bag if needed.
Techniques involved include sewing a straight seam, working with heavy fabrics, and setting rivets (optional).
They are selling Fabric and Notions kit, just notions kit, just rivets or just the pattern
I bought a paper copy of this and made it a couple years ago; I’ve reached out to see if I can get the PDF or if I’d need to buy again. Does the photo make it clear I wasn’t happy with it in the size that wasn’t designed for me?
The Avenir Jumpsuit is an easy to sew jumpsuit with billowy sleeves and wide legs. It’s almost as comfortable as pajamas but still stylin’ enough to wear to dinner with friends! Elastic gathers the neck and waistline for a comfortable, easy fit. The pattern includes options for long sleeves gathered with elastic or short sleeves.
5% of proceeds go to charity. This pattern benefits Against Malaria (againstmalaria.com)
Our lovely Ferdi Dungarees will hopefully become a staple piece in your handmade wardrobe. With their relaxed, wide-leg fit and deep patch pockets, they are the perfect throw on outfit, for any time of the year.
The Ferdi Pattern comes with three strap options which can be easily lengthened or shortened, for your ideal fit.
Version 1:
Wide-legged dungarees with patch pockets and tie fastenings.
Version 2:
Wide-legged dungarees with patch pockets and open button fastenings.
Version 3:
Wide-legged dungarees with patch pockets and concealed button fastenings.
With its cute grown-on sleeves, gentle V neckline and angled bust darts, Farris oozes confidence and playfulness, as well as a bit of sophistication thrown in for good measure.
Choose the short pant legs to make a fun playsuit/romper, or use the long, wide-legged pants to make the elegant jumpsuit option. Drafted for a height of 170cm/5’7″, the pant falls straight down from the hip, with the short ending mid-thigh and the long leg falling to just above the ground – meaning you can wear flats confidently, knowing you won’t end up dragging the back of your jumpsuit hem on the ground.
Comfort comes first, with Farris sporting the same drawstring waistline as her sisters, the Quincy & Mayberry dresses. Add in all-in-one pockets, and you’ve got the perfect pattern to play around with loud prints, soft colours and everything in between.
Closet Core Jude Jeans– Get your groove on with the Jude Jeans! Designed for stretch denim, Jude is close-fitting through the waist, hip, and upper thigh before widening at the knee in your choice of bootcut or flare leg silhouettes.
View A is a classic 5-pocket style, featuring a mid rise and a bootcut leg.
View B features an ultra high rise with front patch pockets and a full flare leg with a wide faced hem.
All views include a back yoke, contour waistband, belt loops, and a fly front zipper, with a 32″ inseam.
#pfLegCages Intro:
Seems like a thing that Jenny would suggest, right???? Ha!
What qualifies – pants, shorts, leggings, culottes, jumpsuits with legs, leg warmers?
Great pants fitting technique: Top Down Center Out from @Ithacamaven – We interviewed Ruth on Episode 74
Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best. I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!
Catch up:
Jenny:
Hip
Date
Pattern
Designer
Source
type
Description
63
2/5/2023
Blanca Flight Suit
Closet Core
Seams Fabric
Canvas
Ruby Star florida gators & stripes
62
2/6/2023
York
Helen’s Closet
Gifted
Dobby
Blue flowers black leaves
62
2/8/2023
York
Helen’s Closet
Gifted
Denim
White – will dye later
59.5
2/11/2023
Lodo
True Bias
Girl Charlee
French Terry
Grey with rose gold stars
60
2/14/2023
Dragonfruit
Caramiya
Mended
N/A
N/A
And can you believe I’m actually cutting out the sandhill sling? I realize now that what I want is not a kit, it’s a pre-cut pattern, or… hear me out … I want someone else to make me one. There are so many pieces to cut! LOL!
I got the fabric at Gray Lines Linen in NYC. Love this place. The fabric is actually cotton and was on sale for 6.99/yd. Also got a heavy cotton/linen twill, burgundy color. They had really cool linen! Got some lightweight digital print and a couple of LOVELY twills – felt too soft to be linen, but guy assured me (and had a tag) 100% linen.
Also on my trip: Mood fabrics, B&J fabrics, Fab Scrap, District Leather, Pacific Trimming and Buttons, M&J trimming.
Sewing community news: “unpopular opinions” post. Reddit discussion here.
105 Outside Your Comfort Zone in sewing #pfHotStuff
21 Feb 2023
Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best. I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!
Catch up:
Jenny:
Tauko magazine has accepted one of my designs for Issue #9 – coming out toward the end of 2023. I’m overwhelmed because I didn’t imagine this would happen – and also because there’s so much to do now. I’ve got the base pattern drafted, and mostly graded. Next up is WRITING INSTRUCTIONS, including instructions for something I’m only able to do successfully by watching a video, lol. So there’s that – but the nice folks at Tauko assure me that they’ll be there to help make the instructions stronger, add illustrations, etc.
Big thanks to everyone who encouraged me to try – especially Beverly.
I’m also nearly done with my first Blanca Flight Suit from Close Core Patterns. This is almost entirely due to Sara from Fabric_Scraps reaching out to ask if I wanted an accountability partner for this make – since she also needed one. We both sat down at 9 am one Saturday and worked together, sending photos back and forth, along with words of encouragement & advice. I have just the collar & sleeves to complete – but I got nervous and sewed up the body side seams and crotch seams early just to confirm that it’ll fit before finishing the other bits up. And it does! There’s the typical “how fitted can I make the bodice and still pull this on-and-off” problem. This is more complicated with my CGM. LOL!
Beverly: Been making workout shorts – pretty boring. Just Hudson pants shortened and without the pockets. I want to make some Friday Pattern Co Sport Shorts too (up to 63” hip). And possibly the Greenstyle Balboa Shorts (up to 62” hip).
Jenny: Dammit. I’m definitely buying/making this one. OMG. A zipper & straps. I will say my local Joann doesn’t carry zippers long enough in store for someone my size to buy for projects like this – I have to order each time (Wawak!).
Up to 67” hip
FROM $14
PATTERN NO. 602
The Isola is a modern take on the overall. Slim cut through the body with a darted bodice for added shaping.
Whether you want to stay in or work out, do it in style with these cozy and comfy Nusle Joggers! With one pattern, you get three different looks—1) The long version has split side hems and falls straight down from the knees; 2) the slim-fit, ankle length version has taper legs and is finished with cuffs; and 3) the capri version ends at high calves and is finished with cuffs. Designed for four-way stretch knit fabric, the Nusle sits at the natural waist and has an elastic waistband.
Nusle Joggers Features:
Elastic waistband with drawstring
Mid-rise that sits at the natural waist
Three options:
Long Split Hem
Ankle Cuff
Capri Cuff
Slanted front pockets
Designed for medium 4-way stretch knit fabric with good recovery
Jenny: I’m intrigued. Something’s very wrong with the world when I’m thinking “dang, those PANTS are cute.”
Whst does risk taking in sewing look like? How do you tackle something outside your comfort zone?
My comfort zone for sewing lies firmly in the “loose dress with gathers” space. Stepping outside of that has always been painful. How do we get into ruts in sewing, and how do we get back out again?
Sew with a friend who will encourage you to push yourself
Share your plan publicly – instagram can give you a forum for saying you’ll do something and being held to account to … actually do it.
Look at the skills you feel uncomfortable about, and make a plan to improve them. My hatred of buttons is at least in part based on how difficult it is for me to feel like my buttonhole placement, my buttonhole stitches, are good enough. Making many pairs of overalls has fixed the buttonhole stitches problem.
Make a list, and check things off as you are able. It’s low pressure, but involves all the fun of checking things off a list. You can use the Notes function in your phone for this most likely, but there are also so many different really cute note pads you can employ for this. I’m a digital list person for sewing, and weirdly a physical list person for work.
Randomly select a pattern that’s out of your comfort zone every (week, month, quarter, vacation, etc) and commit to making it happen. You’ll learn a lot by what you feel when you pick the random pattern (random number generator, put them in a box and pull randomly, make someone else pick one for you, etc).
I’m working on really understanding pants so I can …. Design my own overalls. Ulp. I think this means I have to keep making pants. I wonder if I will?
Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best. I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!
Catch up:
Jenny:
I’ve made two different color-blocked York Pinafores. These are the Helen’s Closet pattern that I make in a smaller size than would be correct for my body measurements per the size chart. With both, I made one half of the front in a contrast fabric. It’s been a great way to use up some fabric that I have large scraps of, but not enough to make a York (even though this is a very good pattern for using up a smaller length of fabric for me). I’m also enamored of the marsupial pouch pocket these days.
Beverly: I finished knitting a sweater that I started a few years ago. At the beginning of football season, I had just the sleeves to go. I finished the night of the first playoff game. For those interested, it is called “Breathing Space” by Veera Valimaki. It is a lovely pattern, very well written and probably easily finished in less than three years by others.
I’ve already printed Parabolic, Jordan, Marsupial, and Over-It.
Capsule wardrobe:
Beverly: I am going on a very big vacation this May and I want to make a new capsule wardrobe for it. AND, I’m going to NYC next weekend so I can shop for fabric!!!
Jenny:
This is so different than how I think about my wardrobe, and my clothing in general, that I hardly know how to think about it. Most of my garments are dresses withs sleeves, so I rarely wear two me-made things at the same time. With my new exploration of pinafores, overalls, etc – there’s some possibility here. I think my first step would be finding top patterns I’d like to use in multiple ways (shirts, wraps, jackets) that would coordinate with, over, under, overalls & pinafores.
But in the end, Beverly is gonna do the heavy lifting on this one.
My ideas for what i need: May is warm but not hot in Portugal. I think that means we need to be prepared for chilly too. Not sure. I want to make shorts, tops and a couple of dresses.
Shorts: True Bias Dani Shorts and Pants smaller band, larger band (up to 62”) – although they sell the two bands separately with different sites for each size band, I do want to commend True Bias on the ease of finding size chart. For each pattern there is a “measurements” tab that drops open to show body measurements, final garment measurements and fabric requirements. So helpful!
I love these shorts. I own this pattern but have not made it. I have some textured cotton from Core Fabrics that would be awesome for these.
Sponsor this month: THREE patterns from Fostering Sewing Patterns – most adorable stuffed animal patterns! I love the owl and alligators the best. I hope they’ll make a raccoon pattern!
Catch up:
Jenny:
I have a Clyde jumpsuit cut out & ready to go in two colors of IL-19 linen dark green (centers) and navy (sides). Max 61.5” hip. Weird because these are ranges. I’m squarely in the middle of the 4X & can’t wait to see what happens next. I think it looks like Pietra pants if they became a jumpsuit.
Beverly:
Another pair of Ginger Jeans! Black denim that I purchased from Core Fabrics. So much easier after I have already altered the pattern to my shape. The waistband was a little stretched out this time – for me this isn’t a problem as I always wear a belt with jeans, but to prevent in the future, I plan to stay stitch earlier in the process. Instructions call for stay stitch once it’s put together but with all the pressing and top stitching, I need to do early. I’m not exactly a delicate sewist. Max 63” hip, 53” waist.
The Daphne Jacket is a shawl collar unlined jacket with an open front. The bodice is oversized and boxy. There are two patch pocket shape options: one square and one with a slanted opening. A phone pocket peeks out from under one of the patch pockets for convenience.
This pattern was created as an outerwear style that anyone, including beginners, can make, without intimidating elements like collar, buttonholes, and linings. The pattern is also meant for using old wool blankets and quilts. The simplicity of the pattern does not require a lot of cutting and hopes to retain all of the original charm of that vintage piece.
There are two views included in this pattern:
View A is a longer, below-hip jacket.
View B is a cropped jacket.
The pockets are interchangeable.
Instructions for a lined option are included at the end of the instructions booklet.
See photos of other sewists’ versions of the Daphne Jacket here!
MATERIALS:
The Daphne Jacket pattern is designed for woven fabrics. It works best for heavyweight fabrics that are finished on both sides. Examples are wool coating, boiled wool, tweed, flannel, double-faced fabrics, and quilted fabrics. Keep in mind that the jacket is unlined, so the “wrong” side of the fabric becomes the “right” side of the collar lapel.
For fabrics with patterning such as stripes or a tartan, keep in mind that extra yardage may be needed for pattern matching.
SIZING:
The Daphne Jacket is available for a full bust measurement range of 32” to 60”.
How to choose your size:
Choose your size based on your full bust measurement. Find the size with the closest bust measurement to yours in the Body Measurements chart. If between sizes, size down.
The intended fit for the Daphne Jacket is an oversized and boxy fit, with enough ease to layer a sweater underneath. Heavyweight fabrics are recommended for this pattern. If using a medium weight or lightweight fabric, consider sizing down.
The Pippa Dress features an asymmetrical design with a line of buttons going down the front. These are just for decoration – no buttonholes needed – so you can have fun button-hunting, without worrying too much about the size. Use larger ones for a statement detail, or keep them small for a more delicate look. You could also leave the buttons off completely and catch-stitch the bodice instead. Shaping is provided by bust darts on the front bodice and waist darts on the back bodice, to create a beautiful fitted silhouette. The dress closes with an invisible zip on the side, and the neckline is finished neatly with binding. Pick between a mini, midi or maxi length and sew the skirt closed, or leave a sassy slit (perfect for the maxi version!). We’ve also given you three sleeve styles to choose from, so you can sew the Pippa Dress for any season: short, 3/4 length or a full-length bell sleeve with elastic at the hem. Pippa needs a fabric with plenty of drape, like viscose or crepe, and she looks fabulous in both solids and prints.
#pfLocalFabric recap
Don’t forget to check out the website for a clue for next month’s theme!
If you would like to sponsor a prize for an upcoming month, please contact us through our instagram page or punkfrockers@gmail.com.
Punkfrockers is adding a prize to help Terrance Williams reach his goal of selling enough headbands to buy a new sewing machine!
Catch up:
Jenny: I’m finding new patterns to sew instead of my current overall pattern. The next attempt for me is one by True Bias Riley. Check my Instagram as well to see the experiment I’ve got going on with these stubbornly popular overalls that the design is not planning to extend sizing on – I’m trying them in sizes 22 to 30 to show how they fit on my body (which is 1” outside of the patterns range at the size 30).
Beverly shared with me that she just doesn’t make things we can’t talk about on the show, so I’m going to try that too. Fingers crossed I can be more aware and do better.
Beverly:
First make of the year – Sew House Seven Free Range slacks (Up to 65” hip here) using the leftover blue/purple gingham linen from Merchant and Mills, that came all the way from England but still qualifies as #pfLocalFabric.
Klum House Fremont Bag – using their full maker kit – I bought the one labeled “seconds” for $35 less and I couldn’t tell what was wrong with it. Very simple to make!
Community news:
Closet Core has started a subscription service (all new Closet Core patterns are drafted up to size 32, which is 61” hip for them) similar to what Cashmerette has done. Stringthing gave me a different perspective on this that I would like to discuss.
The Protea Pant is a modern trouser with chic front pleats, sweeping pant legs, and a curved waistband. It offers two ways of sewing the waistband. The first way is better for light-to-midweight fabrics, and if you like the look of topstitching. The second method is for mid-to-heavyweight fabrics, or if you like a clean, more traditional trouser waistband. View A has pleats in front, View B has a flat front. This pattern will teach you some fun techniques, including:
The Mila Jumper is a stylish pattern that features dolman dropped sleeves that are wider at the shoulder and then taper at the wrists. This slip-on and slouchy fit makes the perfect cozy jumper for beginner sewists looking for a quick yet satisfying make! This jumper can easily be hacked for a cropped look or longer length.
This is an oversized jacket with a rounded collar, front button closure, 3 front patch pockets, an inverted box pleat at the centre back neck, and wide sleeves that are perfect for fitting all of your winter layers underneath. The Bell jacket gets it’s name from the bell shaped sleeve, created with several darts sewn into the hem of the sleeve. This jacket is fully lined.
“A” line dress featuring front tucks, long sleeves, “V” neck and collar.
BREAK FOR SEAMS interview
If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com. We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week! Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?!
Punkfrockers is adding a prize to help Terrance Williams reach his goal of selling enough headbands to buy a new sewing machine!
If you would like to sponsor our podcast and have something you are willing to offer worldwide, please contact us on IG or at punkfrockers@gmail.com. We do not charge for this, but we do talk about your product for each episode and we are up to about 1500 downloads per week! Jenny, did you know that we have had over 100,000 downloads all together?!
If you would like to support us, please visit patreon.com/punkfrockers.
Catch up:
Jenny:
Started a toile for a Tauko proposal. And I can’t say more or it’s not a valid proposal any more. 😂😂😂. Wanting to make overalls – send recommendations! 60” hip + I’ve already cut out a pair that don’t meet that requirement – hoping the designer chooses to expland since their current size chart does exceed 60”. I’ve got the Leo by By Hand London on my cutting table next – max 69” hip.
The Birch Vest is a lined waistcoat with princess seams, a deep scoop neckline, and a front button closure. A transitional wardrobe staple, Birch can be worn alone or layered with matching separates for a tailored or casual style.
Lets look back at our first 100 episodes
Favorite episode?
Jenny – #5 – Definitely not guaranteed sewing tips
Beverly – #66 All about Linen, #5, Definitely not guaranteed sewing tips
Favorite challenge?
Jenny – #pfScrappy – really resonated with listeners, and I actually figured out how to use scraps in my sewing.
Beverly – #pfBondage – best name and also nice to slow down and add beautiful details. I love the garments I made that month with bias bound waistbands
Beverly – Jim! Also Terrance Williams – #1 best laugh of anyone i know. Also loved Florence Taylor – it was like having a long time friend come chat with us.
Favorite moment?
Jenny – Dammit, Beverly took mine – tkt, tx was AWESOME.
Beverly – When we learned the difference between tkt and Tx for thread size! Haha!
What did you learn?
Jenny – how to slow down, and do things “righter”. I curse/bless Beverly for making my sewing practice more annoying/better. I learned how to edit a podcast. I learned how to make friends with sewists.
Beverly – SO MUCH! Jenny is an awesome business person. She knows how to say things diplomatically. I can change a normal situation to awkward and defensive and Jenny just fixes it for me. I learned the extent of the hurt and harm caused by unequal access to patterns based on size. And I learned that the sewing community can pressure that to change and succeed!
How is your sewing practice different?
Jenny – OMG. I use pins. I iron. I PREWASH. DAMMIT.
Beverly – I’m better at knowing if something is my style before I make it.
What do you want to see more of?
Jenny – More interviews. We’ve stepped away from those (not intentionally) but I loved getting other voices on the show.
Beverly – Community love! Would love more people to find and enjoy our podcast and for folks to feel welcome and at home with us.
Hopes for the next 100 episodes?
Jenny – Seeing more changes in the greater sewing world that meet the needs of all sewists. More attention paid to gender bias in sewing patterns, more extended sizing (60” is not enough!), more representation for fat, old, queer sewists.
Beverly – that we will meet the community needs and wants with our show.
